16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
"Aphids live on the leaves rather than under them. I have never seen them to infest tomatoes."
Most aphids' entire life cycle is lived out on the underside of leaves.
They most certainly do infest tomato plants.
Hard to tell from your out of focus pic, but I'm guessing aphids.
Adult whiteflies would have flown off as soon as you turned those leaves over.
There are many discussions here on GW dealing with aphid problems. Just do some searching and you'll find loads of info.
This post was edited by robeb on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 1:27
Thanks everyone.I have read about aphid's and haven't found any that are white and all are decribed as being bigger than what I got. They do fly when you get near them and they are mostly under the leaves. I guess I'll take some to a garden supply and see if they can help. I"m thinking about trying to dust them with seven,what do you think ???
Burpee lists SS100 as being 70 days to DTM, and DTMs are counted from the time of transplant, so I think even I could get cherry tomatoes if I started them on July 20th! (As long as I got them into their final homes at about 4 weeks, and we didn't get an early frost.)
Betsy
Hi Donna,
You can get variations in the amount of red in a bicolor, it seems to depend on the amount of sunlight and lattitude, just like the "blackness" of the "so-called-blacks." Some of the ICCs will be almost amber like Sungold, and others will be nearly red. On some the bi-color will be obvious and on others it is faint.
Do a Google Image search, and you can see what I mean. I'd post the link, but lately GW won't let me link to an image search. :-(
Are these your first fruits that are more grape shaped? Sometimes the first fruits of any tomatoes are not shaped like they are later in the season, although with cherries I find that they are usually pretty uniform unless we had funky weather about the time they were blooming and setting fruit.
As for posting pictures from PB, use the html link, that's what I did for the image below. (You may want to try it in the test forum.)
Betsy
This post was edited by bets on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 15:47
You'll get far more helpful info over on the Growing Under Lights forum here since very few tomato growers practice this form of growing. Perhaps even the Hydroponics forum could be of more help.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Under Lights forum
They're Tami G Hybrid.
Some are starting to turn and it's not as obvious on them, so I probably could pick them now. The worst ones are super green and still too small to pick and counter ripen. Hopefully you're right, Linda and time will be gracious to them.
I am not a taste expert but SWEETNESS,( beside being a relative and somewhat subjective matter ) is msotly attributed to small fruited and yellow tomatoes. OR that is what I have heard.
ALSO, sweetness is due to ripeness ant that can happen more with hot and dry conditions than the opposite. I think, somehow sunshine make a remarkable contribution to sweetness. And, of course, genetic characteristic is another factor, perhaps that OP is looking for.
those look great. Deep fryer sure helps!
To those who are willing to experiment, there is a great Latvian recipe for pickled tomatoes + onions in a pickle juice jello. Essentially your marinade is made to jelly up in the jar if you keep it in the fridge. It is quite tangy as Latvians are quite vinegar-crazy, but who knows, you may enjoy it. Since a Latvian recipe can be quite difficult to find in English, look for a Russian one, there should be plenty online in English.
Could you be more specific in your question please, narrow it's focus to specific points?
It would take hours and pages of information to even try to answer your question as posed. It is simply far too broad.
A simple answer is that you cannot grow tomatoes without N-P-K as well as various minerals and micro-nutrients. The effect of supplying them would all depend on the amounts used, the form they were administered in and the time of application, as well as the method of application.
Na (sodium) has a minimal role.
Dave
Stink bugs are almost impossible to control even with chemical pesticides much less organic ones. But if you browse through the many discussions here about them that the search will pull up for you, one frequent recommendation over the past several years is Surround, a powdered kaolin clay preparation that is sprayed on the plants, and it is organic.
Dave
Sungiold F1 seeds are produced by the breeder, Tokita Seeds, inJapan.
And there are far more than two parents, I've explained how modern F1 varieties are bred in another thread here quite recently., Actually with two breeding lines and up to 4 parental inputs in each of those breeding lines.
THey don't store F1 seed, they produce more F1 seed when needed,which is true for Tokita and all the other major commercial breeders of F1 seeds for many varieties.
Using male steriles makes F1 seed production much easier these days as opposed to all the hand labor that used to be necessary when removing the male pollen bearing anthers so that no self pollenization could occur.,
Carolyn
Clones can be used to great effect when hybridizing or breeding stable OP varieties, and tomatoes are super easy to clone.
I know with human cells, telomere length is a limiting factor on immortality. But cancer cells can achieve immortality in a petri dish, see link below.
I am not sure if there is such a limit on plants. Considering 2000+ year old trees here and there perhaps there is not a fundamental limit, and plant clones could be kept alive forever.
As for OP vs. hybrid, I'll gladly take the adaptability, resilience and independence from seed co's that OP offers, over whatever gains might be obtained by buying hybrid seed. I want seeds that are adapted to my climate, my garden, my pests and my habits as a gardener. My plan is to just keep chucking tomato seeds out there to see what thrives and produces. My aims are different than a lot of gardeners, for me it's more about resilient gardening than gourmet gardening. I'm happier with the 'wild arugula' that reseeds itself perpetually than with some named variety of arugula that I would have to resow every year.
I am a member of a local seed library, $10 lifetime membership, and I have access to way more veggie seeds than I could ever grow, with the caveat that I return extra saved seed when possible. With those seeds, I follow stricter seed saving protocols, because there is an obligation to keep the varieties true.
Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.npr.org/2011/03/18/134622044/tracing-the-immortal-cells-of-henrietta-lacks
This post was edited by yukkuri_kame on Mon, Aug 12, 13 at 17:18
seysonn - the link Dave gave was not to a discussion on GW. I gives very clear explanation of determinate vs indeterminate - though things get muddy once you start on "semi-determinates".
Oh, and I know the only way I'm going to be able to tell if these are hybrids is to save some seeds and see if the fruit is the same next year. Which I'll do if they taste good, b/c while the seeds I have left in these packets may be the same (or may not be, I've gotten an oddball seed in a Burpee packet before), any that are labeled the same for sale next year (or ven the unopened packets I have from this year, think I bought 2 of the "Independence Day") could be totally different!
Since seysonn apparently wants to be spoon-fed an answer and even providing pictures isn't enough then:
If a tomato reaches a certain size and stops growing, it is called a determinant tomato plant. However if the suckers keep on growing and growing out of the pot and into the frying pan, it is called indeterminate.
You can tell if a tomato plant is determinate or indeterminate by looking at how the flower cluster comes off the stem. If it is centered and shooting out from the tip of the stem, then it is a determinate plant. If the flower cluster is off to one side with the stem growing past the cluster, then it has an indeterminate growth pattern.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Determinate versus Indeterminate tomato plants
Horrible time with hornworms this year...usually not so bad but for some reason an over abundance this season. Pulled them off and fed them to the chickens. Even found one on one of my sweet banana pepper plants.
I will definitely attempt to turn over the beds (with my son's help) and hopefully foil the dormant growth. Of course, killing over 30 of the buggers should reduce the population somewhat.
Anyone else in zone 7b (Upstate SC) have a similar experience?
Any recommendations for next year of a large tomato that might do better?
Any recommendations for next year of a large tomato that might do better?
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Do NOT plant Beefsteaks !