16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes


I just want to point out pimpinellifolium typically have smooth stem and leaves, not at all hairy like regular tomatoes. Also, cerasiforme contains genes from cultivated(esculentum) and wild tomatos(pimpinellifolium). All three are interfertile and have been mixing before humans got involve. There's a studies that suggest cerasiforme is a result of interbreeding between esculentum and pim. And another that suggest cerasiforme have originated from pim (this is a bit newer and found it more convincing).
About matts wild cherry, it is speculated that it's late blight resistance comes from Ph-3. The Ph-3 resistance gene used in tomato breeding come from pimpinellifolium. So, it possible matt's wild cherry is a pim or a cerasiforme with pim genes. Idk if it's tolerant to early blight.
As for early blight resistance, IâÂÂm not aware of any good resistance(like those for RKN, V, or F123). You may want to check out NC State University Tomatoes like Mountain Magic, Plum Regal, or others (NCSU or other sources) for tolerant varieties.
Both parent lines of Plum Regal were moderately resistant to EB (also resistant for VFF). So, it might a good tomato to use for crosses if you plan to improve some OP tomatoes tolerance to EB (and add V, Fol1, Fol2 resistance).


Hi Daina,
I'm in SE Michigan, zone 6B. I planted Black Krim, Cherokee Purple, Brandy Boy and Sun Sugar. I lost the BK and CP to some type of wilt disease. I pulled them a couple of weeks ago in order to save the other two. They had started producing though they were kinda mealy.
I'm getting wonderful fruit of the SS, but not as many as in prior years. I picked a couple of blushers off the BB and found what I think was BER. But, there are some really nice, large tomatoes coming that, hopefully, won't have it.
Both plants have a bit of Septoria. I don't plan on spraying, just removing leaves. Weather has been coolish and wet here. Just a bad year all around for tomato growing.
Gail


Thanks all for the advice.
I think I must have damaged it. I tried to be as careful as possible when putting in the stake in so as to enlarge the old hole rather ramming in a new one but I guess I wasn't careful enough.
I probably would have been better off leaving some of the leaves touching the ground but I got scared as we've had quite a bit of rain recently.
There are some images attached to the post above or at http://imgur.com/a/LKhkV.


All of your fruits looks great! This is my first year so I didn't know what to expect. With the weird weather (cool, rainy, then dry) I got some cracking but nothing that will effect the taste hopefully. Had to pick these a bit early to ripen in the window. They are so beautifully colored IMO!
Mr.Stripey's in the rear and old german up front.





In your zone in CA you might be able to pull it off but for most of us it would be impossible except with a greenhouse and have a costly overhead even then.
And the benefits you are hoping for often don't manifest themselves. But experimentation is a good way to learn.
Dave

"In your zone in CA you might be able to pull it off but for most of us it would be impossible except with a greenhouse and have a costly overhead even then.
And the benefits you are hoping for often don't manifest themselves. But experimentation is a good way to learn."
I sure wouldn't waste precious greenhouse space on such an experiment.
As for pulling it off in my climate, the tomato has already survived a winter with zero attention, meaning it survived a few light frosts. Whether it is worth it or not in terms of long-term productivity remains to be seen.
I've taken a few cuttings to plant in more favorable locations in the garden (with irrigation & sun) to see what happens. I'll update next spring.

Hello, Sorry for not replying to the post sooner. They are not, teeny wasps, at least I don't think so. It is inside a greenhouse, and I have never had hook worms, or any kind of worms. I do have parasitic wasps, which help the ladybugs keep the aphids under control, they are smaller and leave mummies in the leaves. there are no mummies on the tomato plants, only these bugs and other smaller ones, which I suspect are their young. Maybe it is something only found here in Mexico, I will continue searching, but thanks for your responses.

I added some photos to an album in imgur, in case someone wants to see. Note the black spots, which I suspect are some kind of honeydew.
Here is a link that might be useful: Imgur album

Take a look at this link and compare the pics to your leaves. Looks right to me. Best fungicide is Daconil but many others are available. many discussions here about them the search will pull up for you.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU - Septoria Leaf Spot


Yes - You should spray or it might spread and kill the whole plant. I have had early fungus problems and now I have spider mites and Late Blight. If you get Late Blight, it will kill the plants very quickly. Spay a copper based fungicide once a week or after every rainfall.

I grew out a couple of seeds that I had saved in 2008, just to see if they would be Potato Leaf. They are!
So, I have been growing this variety for at least 5 years and they have always had the yellow pear-shaped fruit and PL's.
Did it suddenly revert to a round yellow cherry? That sounds like the simplest explanation.
I have never grown any other yellow tomato varieties, although I have grown rosé cherries. (I don't know if rosé is recessive).
We all have 2 acre lots, and none of my neighbours grows tomatoes.
The only cross that I have noticed is from Garden Peach (which I disliked). Wouldn't you know it GP crossed with Rosé cherry and I ended up with fuzzy GP fruits on my "supposed" Rosé plants - yuck!
Linda

At another message site where Linda also has been posting about this I just posted a lot of information and told her what she had beengrowing for 5 years was probably Yellow Submarine and gave her a link.
As I also posted, it's anyones guess as to why she got cherries and not YP shaped ones of late.
And made some other comments to her.
So she can update you on this if she wants to since no links to other message sites are allowed here at GW.
Carolyn

I ordered opalka from someone on ebay this year, and ended up with a short, bushy plant similar to the pictures above. To my disappointment, it appears some kind of no/faux palka. The tomatoes look like bell peppers, with 4 lobes, and hollowed out like they'd be good for stuffing. I wanted to rip them up, but curiosity won the better of me and I'm going to wait and see what the ripened fruit is like.



The new growth is looking a lot less wilted now, though the leaves have distinct patches of light green and dark green. The leaves usually get paler when I need to fertilize, so I'll get that done. The sick plant is away from the healthy one now, just in case.
There's probably an element of stress involved, though it seems strange that one plant is doing well and the other isn't considering I'm treating them both the same. Is Cherokee Purple a sensitive variety?
I noticed two bugs while looking at the main stem, and I knocked them off. I'm looking to find some Neem oil to use on both plants, since they were in close contact and I have problems noticing tiny bugs.

Yes, suckers do form new plants easily, but I'm one of many who never removes sucker,aka lateral branches, b'c they bear fruits beautifully, they give me more foliage as backup if and when foliage infections arrive and the additional foliage also leads to greater photosynthesis which produces the energy compounds that allow for plant growth in the vegetative phase and then in thesexual phase blossom formation, fruit set and fruit maturation.
Whoops, I didn't mean to typesuch a long sentence.LOL
The only time that I root suckers is when there has been plant damage and then I stick the sucker in the soil,build a wee moat around it and keep that moat filled with water until I seen new growth.
Carolyn

Had great success thus far this year using suckers. I pinch all the suckers off but I grow in small spaces vertically up twine. Having the plants 12-18" apart sort of requires me to grow up. I have, on occasion though, allowed a few suckers to grow on the outside plants with good success.



Excellent !!
Any problems with that ? lol