16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

I ordered opalka from someone on ebay this year, and ended up with a short, bushy plant similar to the pictures above. To my disappointment, it appears some kind of no/faux palka. The tomatoes look like bell peppers, with 4 lobes, and hollowed out like they'd be good for stuffing. I wanted to rip them up, but curiosity won the better of me and I'm going to wait and see what the ripened fruit is like.



The new growth is looking a lot less wilted now, though the leaves have distinct patches of light green and dark green. The leaves usually get paler when I need to fertilize, so I'll get that done. The sick plant is away from the healthy one now, just in case.
There's probably an element of stress involved, though it seems strange that one plant is doing well and the other isn't considering I'm treating them both the same. Is Cherokee Purple a sensitive variety?
I noticed two bugs while looking at the main stem, and I knocked them off. I'm looking to find some Neem oil to use on both plants, since they were in close contact and I have problems noticing tiny bugs.

Yes, suckers do form new plants easily, but I'm one of many who never removes sucker,aka lateral branches, b'c they bear fruits beautifully, they give me more foliage as backup if and when foliage infections arrive and the additional foliage also leads to greater photosynthesis which produces the energy compounds that allow for plant growth in the vegetative phase and then in thesexual phase blossom formation, fruit set and fruit maturation.
Whoops, I didn't mean to typesuch a long sentence.LOL
The only time that I root suckers is when there has been plant damage and then I stick the sucker in the soil,build a wee moat around it and keep that moat filled with water until I seen new growth.
Carolyn

Had great success thus far this year using suckers. I pinch all the suckers off but I grow in small spaces vertically up twine. Having the plants 12-18" apart sort of requires me to grow up. I have, on occasion though, allowed a few suckers to grow on the outside plants with good success.

I have organic potting soil/mix, and compost. They have been doing fine for the last month or so, then the vein/leaf issue starting popping up. I noticed a few leaves also with some holes and withering at the very base with the purplish blotches on the non-vein side.


Hi QS,
You might want to ask this over in the Soil, Compost and Mulch Forum, although it doesn't look like there is much in the way of recent activity over there, but someone may be monitoring for new posts and might have some suggestions for you.
Also, it's possible your question has been asked and answered on that forum previously, so you may want to go take a look even if you don't post your question there.
Betsy
Here is a link that might be useful: Soil, Compost and Mulch Forum

In a way you are talking about what is called "sheet composting" or composting in place and the best place for info on that methods is as Betsy said, the Composting forum. While one can read about tossing all sorts of things in with their plants - TUMS, aspirin, egg shells, banana peels, coffee grounds, blended kitchen scrapes, limestone gravel, dog food, moldy bread. and even laundry soap, etc. it is all considered junk gardening by most experienced gardeners.
But the whole idea of But I had read in another topic about someone just throwing things such as banana peels, used coffee grounds and eggshells in the container pots. with plants is rarely recommended for several reasons. Most would strongly recommend avoid doing it all together. Those things all work in a compost pile IF that pile is managed properly. They don't work in a pot. Sorry.
1) it isn't actually composting
2) it attracts pests and critters to the plants
3) as mentioned it can be stinky, slimy, moldy blob with lots of flies
4) and it does nothing for the plants
Composting requires time, weeks of it, and until it decomposes it provides nothing to the plant. It needs mixing/stirring now and then to work and that would be difficult to do in a pot. It also requires water, often more than the plant could tolerate and requires diverse ingredients to work, a balance of carbons and nitrogens. Easy to do in a pile, even a really big container, but not in a pot.
The most common solution to composting with limited space is Vermicomposting which requires only a small box type container and it too has its own forum here full of info.
Dave


Hello NurseChristina,
You list your zone as 5, but where are you located? Knowing that would help us give you better advice.
Do your tomato plants have blossoms or fruit on them? I assume since you mentioned SFG (square foot gardening) that you are planting in a raised bed. Did you move them into another raised bed, directly into the ground or into containers?
As long as they are not in containers, I would suggest side dressing them with the TomatoTone. I suggest it because the nitrogen is lower, you want support for fruits and roots, not foliage growth. NPK = up, down, all around.
Just follow the TT's recommended amounts in a circular furrow about 6" from the stem. Keep the fert off the leaves and roots so they don't get burned. You can follow up with another feeding in 3-4 weeks.
If they are in the ground (or raised bed) I'll contradict Seysonn's watering advice . . . . Neither of us knows where you are or if you are container gardening, so we may both be wrong. However, I'd recommend deep watering if they are in a raised bed or in the ground, I don't think you'll get the deep watering with a watering can. And if you are side dressing, you don't need to feed every watering. If they are in containers, then Seysonn's directions are right on.
I hope that helps.
Betsy

Thanks for the pic Sylvia - did yours look like mine when they were young? Did they increase in size even after they started showing color?
I know Florida tomatoes will be different than Wisconsin tomatoes, but assuming that cake stand is about 14" diameter, your Kosovo are more than twice the size of mine so far.

You are welcome Mandolls, I grow them in containers and the tomatoes were different sizes some probably small like yours and some bigger, from all the heart tomatoes that I tasted they were the ones that I like the best, this season I also grew Monokah's Hat that I also like because they fruit early. I usually use fresh bought seed from the seed companies, this way I am not worried about crossing varieties since I always grow an assortment in my garden.

Silvia

Assuming you plan to use them to make sauce - otherwise why grow that type/variety - then just pick and freeze whole until ready to process them.
That's standard practice with most home canner folks. I sure wouldn't leave them on the plants to go to waste.
Dave


vkelman, I can't offer advice, however, my plants are having the same problems. Some are in containers (not earthbox) with good potting mix. Others are in raised beds. I have the bright yellow leaves phenomenon, and also the tips wilted, then dried up...the same symptoms you have.
I have pulled most of my plants this year because of this deterioration which essentially killed them, although one had new growth at the base so I cut the dead part and am letting that grow.
I am stumped. Did I overfertilize, underfertilize, water too little, too hot for the plant, roots too shallow for some reason?? I don't know, but just letting you know someone else has a very similar issue. :(

I got an interesting idea from a parallel thread on
tomato ville
"Ken4230: Build some sides (plywood, plastic or doubled cardboard) that will sit on the inside top of your containers and fill them with soil. That will give the roots a place to grow."
I have a "gut feeling" that building up some sides on the top of my containers and adding a fresh mix (peat moss / moister control etc) it will benefit my tomato plants. I'm not sure I'll be able to use plastic covers of Earth Box container afterwards, but I can replace them with some mulch or other stuff.
I made a list of our plants and looked at some description of those varieties. A plant which got dry but still green leaves (a picture above) is actually a Black Prince heirloom which is originally from Siberia and doesn't like hot weather. It might be one reason it got dry leaves.
Here's a list of our plants:
Here is a link that might be useful: List of our tomatoes 2013 with short comments

Just for clarification I never said it was impossible so all the personal digs and little cutesy comments aren't warranted.
One can only reply based on the information provided. Incomplete information up front often leads to unwelcomed responses to your questions.
You asked if it was the variety or something you did wrong. I pointed out that while you did nothing wrong the growing conditions you were providing are less than ideal and were the source of the problem. If you didn't want to hear that then perhaps you shouldn't have asked.
The fact remains that what you consider successful methods and results is not considered so by most and is still far from ideal conditions. Ideal conditions are not defined as in ground only either, merely an adequately sized container.
I said it can be done with meticulous care and that it can be done using a drip irrigation system. I addressed both the watering and the nutrient issue problems in my reply. Sorry you apparently missed that info and that emmers had to rehash it.
When one asks for help those who offer it have the right to expect common courtesy in return.
Dave
PS: thanks emmers.

i will thank you for your attempt at help, dave. there was a rude previous comment that set me on edge. it felt as though i was unwelcome here. i thot you were a little bit condenscending but that's no excuse for rudeness on my part, so, i'm sorry for that.
i need no help with container gardening. as i have more than a dozen houseplants, three tomatoes in pots, and five potted trees..
the fault was mine, i misstated the question. it should have
been ''what causes tough skin in tomatoes''
i'd like to be your friend
susie



many thanks for the advice. Now will those pepeprs grow in the winter with T-5 lights? I have a 2 ft jump start one and may invest in something larger. Plus my basement has 5 shop lights installed that are dual 4ft bulbs, I would just have to get new bulbs?
Also yesterday I noticed my Yellow Kellog took hold, I didnt think they would make it and did nothing for a month. I thouight it was the container but appears to be doing fine now. It was planted over a month ago. In the bottom photo is my Yellow Pequin, the red thing is the tag from it's solo cup ( I love recycling) lol
Ok im out and will be back tomorrow or Monday. I got to go to a clambake and eat a 2 1/2 pound maine lobster :D




I grew out a couple of seeds that I had saved in 2008, just to see if they would be Potato Leaf. They are!
So, I have been growing this variety for at least 5 years and they have always had the yellow pear-shaped fruit and PL's.
Did it suddenly revert to a round yellow cherry? That sounds like the simplest explanation.
I have never grown any other yellow tomato varieties, although I have grown rosé cherries. (I don't know if rosé is recessive).
We all have 2 acre lots, and none of my neighbours grows tomatoes.
The only cross that I have noticed is from Garden Peach (which I disliked). Wouldn't you know it GP crossed with Rosé cherry and I ended up with fuzzy GP fruits on my "supposed" Rosé plants - yuck!
Linda
At another message site where Linda also has been posting about this I just posted a lot of information and told her what she had beengrowing for 5 years was probably Yellow Submarine and gave her a link.
As I also posted, it's anyones guess as to why she got cherries and not YP shaped ones of late.
And made some other comments to her.
So she can update you on this if she wants to since no links to other message sites are allowed here at GW.
Carolyn