16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
vkelman, I can't offer advice, however, my plants are having the same problems. Some are in containers (not earthbox) with good potting mix. Others are in raised beds. I have the bright yellow leaves phenomenon, and also the tips wilted, then dried up...the same symptoms you have.
I have pulled most of my plants this year because of this deterioration which essentially killed them, although one had new growth at the base so I cut the dead part and am letting that grow.
I am stumped. Did I overfertilize, underfertilize, water too little, too hot for the plant, roots too shallow for some reason?? I don't know, but just letting you know someone else has a very similar issue. :(
I got an interesting idea from a parallel thread on
tomato ville
"Ken4230: Build some sides (plywood, plastic or doubled cardboard) that will sit on the inside top of your containers and fill them with soil. That will give the roots a place to grow."
I have a "gut feeling" that building up some sides on the top of my containers and adding a fresh mix (peat moss / moister control etc) it will benefit my tomato plants. I'm not sure I'll be able to use plastic covers of Earth Box container afterwards, but I can replace them with some mulch or other stuff.
I made a list of our plants and looked at some description of those varieties. A plant which got dry but still green leaves (a picture above) is actually a Black Prince heirloom which is originally from Siberia and doesn't like hot weather. It might be one reason it got dry leaves.
Here's a list of our plants:
Here is a link that might be useful: List of our tomatoes 2013 with short comments
Just for clarification I never said it was impossible so all the personal digs and little cutesy comments aren't warranted.
One can only reply based on the information provided. Incomplete information up front often leads to unwelcomed responses to your questions.
You asked if it was the variety or something you did wrong. I pointed out that while you did nothing wrong the growing conditions you were providing are less than ideal and were the source of the problem. If you didn't want to hear that then perhaps you shouldn't have asked.
The fact remains that what you consider successful methods and results is not considered so by most and is still far from ideal conditions. Ideal conditions are not defined as in ground only either, merely an adequately sized container.
I said it can be done with meticulous care and that it can be done using a drip irrigation system. I addressed both the watering and the nutrient issue problems in my reply. Sorry you apparently missed that info and that emmers had to rehash it.
When one asks for help those who offer it have the right to expect common courtesy in return.
Dave
PS: thanks emmers.
i will thank you for your attempt at help, dave. there was a rude previous comment that set me on edge. it felt as though i was unwelcome here. i thot you were a little bit condenscending but that's no excuse for rudeness on my part, so, i'm sorry for that.
i need no help with container gardening. as i have more than a dozen houseplants, three tomatoes in pots, and five potted trees..
the fault was mine, i misstated the question. it should have
been ''what causes tough skin in tomatoes''
i'd like to be your friend
susie
many thanks for the advice. Now will those pepeprs grow in the winter with T-5 lights? I have a 2 ft jump start one and may invest in something larger. Plus my basement has 5 shop lights installed that are dual 4ft bulbs, I would just have to get new bulbs?
Also yesterday I noticed my Yellow Kellog took hold, I didnt think they would make it and did nothing for a month. I thouight it was the container but appears to be doing fine now. It was planted over a month ago. In the bottom photo is my Yellow Pequin, the red thing is the tag from it's solo cup ( I love recycling) lol
Ok im out and will be back tomorrow or Monday. I got to go to a clambake and eat a 2 1/2 pound maine lobster :D
Yes it is often referenced/linked here.
Another good one is the TAMU site.
Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU - Tomato Problem Solver
I have been looking at Tatiana base as well as tomatofest early lists. While early and tasty are oxymoron to a degree I am looking for something like Gary list above, on scale from 1 to 10. Matina, Kimberley and Jaune Flamme seems to get better reviews so they go on the list, am growing Peacevine this year,
Any word on following
Bursztyn
Kootenai
Kotlas
Sibirskiy Skorospeliy
Sugary Pounder
Tambovskiy Urozhayniy
So F1 hybrid is just 1st generation of a cross pollination. Is it possible that it might look like just one of its parents, instead of being different and new?
Therefore, OP seems to be a much better choice because what you see is what you'll get . NO surprises there.
$$$$$$
We just got through discussing fhow F1 hybrids are made in a very recent thread here, but I can't find it right now.
The earliest hybrids were the result of crossing just two parents , ones such as Big Boy, Better Boy, Ramapo, etc.
More modern hybrids are NOT the resul tof crossing just two parents. There are two breeding lines and up to a total of 8 parental inputs, and then the last OP in each line is crossed to form the F1..
If you cross two varieties that look the same , as in two round reds, the F1 will be a round red and may look like one of theparents, the phenotype,but since the F1 is the result of putting together the genes of both it will have traits from both, the genotype..
IN the thread I could n't find I gave a link to a search here at GW on the development of hybrid varieties.
Carolyn
Thank you everyone for your comments, it is much appreciated. I've learned a lot from this thread.
Joeroot, the Booty is quite tasty, and yes, very red. Took one out with us yesterday, out to eat, to have on our burgers.
I'm having to pick them as soon as they "blush" as the birds are liking them too. And a few chipmunks and other small 4 legged critters! But I've been able to harvest enough to have canned 7 quarts and made 10 quarts of spaghetti sauce.
It's neither Amish Paste nor Pineappple.
If crosspollination does occur, you don't see the results of that in thesame season that the cross happened, only in the saved seeds from the result of that cross sown the next year.
To me it looks like the Amish Paste you bought at the farmers market was not that, if that's what you show in the picture, nor is it Pineapple.
I can't tell you what it is, since there are many such striped varieties and there's no wa yto know.
The person selling the plants could wel l have sold you ones that were crossed already.
Carolyn
Posted by ncrealestateguy (My Page) on Sat, Jul 27, 13 at 21:55
3-4 hours of sunlight will not grow tomato plants of any vigor... sorry.
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I am growing them with 3 - 4 hours direct sun .
here is picture
This post was edited by seysonn on Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 8:24
I also live in central Indiana and didnt plant out until the first week of May. Typical plant outs for my area are somewhere around May 15 through end of month. We had one frost in my area after my plant out. One of my Brandywines has put out several blooms....all but one of which dropped. I think there may now be another tomato on that plant. My other BW are doing just fine and the taste is great and have produced many tomatoes.
I used 5 gal buckets as frost protection on mine during that cold night.
Looks perfect. I became a tomato lover after my first bite of my first Brandywine 3 years ago. I make room in my raised planter for one every year, even though they are enormous plants.
C...congrats! They are awesome...huh?