16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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MzTeaze(6a)

Wow thanks for sharing. I would love to get some, so I will watch this thread to see if there are updates on how to get some.

    Bookmark     July 14, 2013 at 12:54PM
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MzTeaze(6a)

Wow thanks for sharing. I would love to get some, so I will watch this thread to see if there are updates on how to get some.

    Bookmark     July 14, 2013 at 12:55PM
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Tomato growing issues 3Pic 3
Posted by Diggincitydirt July 13, 2013
3 Comments
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Diggincitydirt

I got rid of the dead leaves and have sprayed weekly with organic fungicide as it has been wet here recently. It is an earthbox with miracle grow soil that was recently charged with compost and vermiculite.

    Bookmark     July 14, 2013 at 10:18AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Did you use the MG Moisture Control mix or the plain MG mix? The moisture control mix keeps plants too wet in self-watering containers. Adding compost and vermiculite only compounds the problems.

Those plants aren't getting enough sun exposure so they are leggy and they look starved for nutrients too. So too wet, too hungry, and not enough sun.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 14, 2013 at 11:29AM
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bobincentralMA

Hi again, thanks all for the chat still. Now, in reading this, I'll morph this question to also add, should you deep water and, if so, how often. I've read that yes, 1 inch a week or deep water once a week. I've added organics and the soil isn't drying out but remaining really solid, moist but not too bad.

So, in conclusion, yes, I think I'm now leaning to not overwater but not scale back. Does this mean, now mid summer, should we deep water once a week or once in awhile or .. .cut back in general, probably never deep water unless you see the plants wilt. Continued thanks for your thoughts !! Bob

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 9:19PM
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sjetski(6b NJ)

I think people tend to water a little more in the summer due 1) hotter temps drying out soil faster. 2) 10x greater plant mass. 3) less rain than springtime typically.

The "water when wilt" method seems better suited for pepper plants imho, which tend to prefer a drier soil.

This post was edited by sjetski on Sun, Jul 14, 13 at 10:47

    Bookmark     July 14, 2013 at 10:46AM
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sheltieche

Picked first Sungold. Started indoor beginning of April, planted May 14, noted first green tom June 18. Am thinking Tigerella will be second and new for me Amazing Chocolate is looking promising.

    Bookmark     July 5, 2013 at 10:05PM
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sheltieche

Update- Amazon Chocolate and Paul Robeson have changed the color today. Yay! two fruits on each. Planted out WOW May 1. Have had few Sungolds and HHHS so far. http://www.rareseeds.com/hssiao-his-hung-shih-tomato/

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 10:46PM
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Moorlord

Linda, I very much like the beaver lodge for an early. The skins are a little thick and they vary in size from golf ball to slicers but they are tasty. The fact that they are so early though makes them especially appealing. I have had some problems with blight this year so I lost a lot of shade leaves and so I have to deal with some sun damage but overall I am quite pleased.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 9:07PM
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labradors_gw

Moonlord,

Many thanks for the info. They look delicious!

I'll put some on my list to grow next year.

Linda

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 9:46PM
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alpeldunas

Pic of suspected environmental damage

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 2:50PM
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bobincentralMA

Hi, can't exactly tell but .. on your last picture, that may be flea beetles. Little black flea-like ones that jump from leaf to leaf and suck juices out. They sometimes have alot of little circles together. From reading, I believe they won't kill off your plant. Seems to happen in the beginning of the year. Once plant growing strong, these are going away in mine.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 9:32PM
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plantgrrl(7a)

Mine began to snap over in the wind. I now have them tied up to stakes. Tomatoes are pretty resilient though, you can probably leave it if you wanted and the tomato will mend the internal part of the stem, most likely.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:41PM
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kathyb912_in (5a/5b, Central IN)

"there's no way to prop them up at this height."

Sure there is. If the plants are 4' high, buy some 5-6+' stakes and insert them into the soil around the plant. Then either tie the stems to the stakes or weave twine around the stakes to make a taller "cage".

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 8:09PM
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plantgrrl(7a)

Steve34, where are you at in the US? Here in VA, I've been joking I'll never have to water again, because of all the storms here. The peaches at the farmer's market were "watery" tasting this year--they were saying it was from all the rain. I've heard the same could be said for tomatoes when it's been very wet as well.

I'm apprehensive for my seven varieties of tomatoes I'm growing. But, I'll just see at harvest time (lots of green right now, but no red yet). But heck, can't be worse then the grocery store.

*Grow my Romas, grow!*

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:52PM
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plantgrrl(7a)

Oops! You just said. I really think it could be the excess rains. :/ Not sure there's anything we can do about mother nature this year.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:54PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree with all the above.

I charged up soil this year with vermiculite and compost. Then i did monthly feeding with garden lime and Fox Farm Happy Frog Tomato food. Now it is happening again. I have a water meter to make sure I don't over water. It has been hot and humid.

Contributing factors to your problems are:

1) the container you are using both size and shape and that it is upside down
2) the vermiculite and compost in the container
3) monthly feeding with lime really skews the soil pH so nutrients can't be used by the plants even if there were any in there
4) only feeding the Happy Frog monthly rather than at least weekly
5)trying to use organics in a container when there is no soil bacteria, no active micro-herd to decompose the organics and make the nutrients in them available to the plants
6) depending on a moisture meter for watering info - notoriously unreliable and especially so for containers so most likely way over-watering.

Sorry for the failure and the expense but a bit of research on the Container gardening forum should get you off to a much better start next year.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:37PM
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art_1(10 CA)

Also, if you are using self watering containers, Raybo has done an excellent job documenting how to get great results with EarthTainers.

Here is a link that might be useful: EarthTainer Construction Guide

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:49PM
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Tomato growing issues 2Pic 2
Posted by Diggincitydirt July 13, 2013
1 Comment
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Please see answers posted in your first post. Most all of them apply to this as well with the exception of the hanging container part. What soil-less mix did you use in the Earthboxes?

Dave

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:39PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Hey, whatever works is good!

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 5:33PM
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plantgrrl(7a)

I've been improvising stakes with branches that have fallen off my maples and tulip poplars.

Whatever works I say!

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:34PM
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Tomato issues 4Another pic
Posted by Diggincitydirt July 13, 2013
1 Comment
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fireduck(10a)

not much info besides the pic...is your soil saturated??? just guessing here...

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 7:27PM
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ryseryse_2004

Aren't those tomato horn worms just the cutest little beasties????? Once you find one, your eyes will become accustomed to finding them. BT dust is the best -- hand-picking/squishing is fine but it is hard to find them all. I have heard that taking a black light out at night is also a great way to find them all - they turn day-glow green. Still - BT is perfectly safe, so use it.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 3:10PM
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mato_nj

The way I find them is if I happen to see their black "droppings" which have usually fallen to a leaf below. If I look to the leaves or stems above the droppings and I usually will find one. Pulled off 6 so far this year using that technique.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 4:30PM
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marcantonio

this happened to me years ago, i had huge green plants but no tomatoes,i haven't had it again. i really think excess nitogen is usually not the case. i use many high nitrogen elements to prepare the soil milorganite,cotton seed meal,chicken manure,ect plus compost. would i started doing was planting further apart sun and air circulation are very important, i also mulch with straw to keep the soil moist.. how close are they planted?

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 2:04PM
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ryseryse_2004

Thanks for all the support. No more water!!!! We have had more than enough VERY regular rain - fortunately the tomato garden is on a slant so it runs off. Also - I will not be adding anything at all to this soil--- beet greens are an indication of healthy soil and those are a rich green.

Today, I am noticing flowers starting to form and a few small tomatoes so maybe the plants were just over-stimulated by all the rain and are now going to perform. I have 12 plants (each a different variety) and were planted 2' apart in rows 8' apart. I have reinforced concrete wire cages around each. With all the foliage, they are growing very close together but the path between the rows is wide enough to walk through.

I think I will have a tomato crop after all unless we have a very early frost. Thanks again all.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 3:05PM
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zzackey(8b GA)

Shade them. They are going thru transplant shock.

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 2:10PM
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