16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Just water normally with the 1 tablespoon per gallon mixture until you are convinced the soil is saturated with it. You might go through several gallons to water everything depending how many plants you have.
This post was edited by edweather on Fri, Jul 12, 13 at 18:34
Yeah even with all the deer damage done early - they topped off some 20-30 plants but most have recovered well - I still have to come down on the far better than average year...so far...knock on wood.
Pretty good year for hornworms but no disease issues and really good production on all varieties. Been eating Bella Rosa, Jetsetter, and a few Mortgage Lifters for a couple of weeks.
Dave
buy the concentrate and use a pump sprayer. I think the premix is to thick, might want to thin it out a little with some water.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
EXACTLY that is what I do. And use an adjustable sprayer bottle (can change from mist to stream). This is very handy and you can aim exactly where you want, how much you want. If I had to spray a big field then I would use a gallon pump sprayer.
Thanks the responses. I'm still looking for more info. If they are simply leaf hopper markings that would be a relief but I'm not sure.
I am a very amateur gardener and my mom thinks I'm paying way too much attention to the leaves. Last year I think we had some kind of blight that hit in August so I want to stay on top of them. This is the first year with cages as well.
I took more pics and added them to the back of that flickr set and added descriptions to the pictures. At the end of the set are closeups I cropped so they'll show on flickr.
I noticed last night when I zoomed in on the pics I took I would see blue/black spots near the white. Here is one example.
I have used some sort of food twice now (10-10-10?) and that stuff I tried my best to keep only at the base of my plants. But as for fertilizer...
I had a tiny bit of dirt left over in a bag from quite some time ago and my mom unceremoniously dumped it in between of my two left-most plants, so that's probably what that is (not sure it was fertilizer though? S: It wouldn't have gotten on the two right ones, in any case, and a few of their leaves are whitish too~
This information quoted from some source? If so, you need to credit the source. Comments taken out of context can often be misleading or misunderstood.
Yellow Leaves - Water-stressed tomato leaves are wilted but still green.
Initially true, but very soon the leaves turn yellow.
Yellowing leaves, on the other hand, are usually a sign that the tomato can't get enough oxygen or other nutrients,
True but what it doesn't make clear is that it is the over-watering, the high moisture level in the soil that creates the lack of oxygen and nutrients by displacing them with water.
diseases/soil deficiencies can also cause yellowing.
True but in most cases it is a very different color of yellow and the interveinal pattern of the leaves appears quite different.
Root Rot/Soil borne disease - Signs of a serious infection include yellow, dark-spotted or brown leaves and slow-growing, stressed tomato plants. Crowns are soft and the roots have large brown sections that may be rotted or desiccated.
(1) root rot is not a disease and (2) the same symptoms are not limited to soil borne diseases only as stated above. Air borne diseases can create the same symptoms.
Leaf Roll - As overwatered tomato plants mature and begin to set fruit, the topmost leaves curl inward and upward. The leaves themselves are firm, rigid or crumbly.
An oversimplification. Many things can cause "leaf roll". Physiological tomato leaf roll is a plant's response to stress and inconsistent watering/soil moisture levels (as opposed to just over-watering) is only one of the possible causes. Plus leaf roll often develops on the larger, older, lower leaves first, not the new growth. Top/new growth leaf roll is often more associated with disease than with over-watering.
JMO
Dave
Did your leaves look like the leaves in my picture? I am not sure my plant has late blight. It isn't progressing as quickly as Dave said it does and is not affecting the stems or fruit. You may not have late blight if it has been going on three weeks. It may be early blight which can usually be controlled with a fungicide.
Can I go ahead and peel/deseed them then freeze them until I have enough ripe to make sauce? Or will this diminish the flavor?
-------------------------------------------------------------
You can do that, of course. But I would rather boil it a little and keep it in a sealed glass container in the frig.
Another way, after peeling deseeding, is to filter through a tight bag(much tighter than cheese cloth). Use the juice as beverage and save the paste/sauce in a zipper bag in frig.
I do my tomato paste this way to reduce energy cost and time. You can let the mast get to any thickness you want. I like mine like spaghetti sauce consistency. Then I just boil is for few minutes and can it.
I think you cant. But it is rich in nitrogen and therefore more suitable for leafy greens. Instead of that a cheaper all purpose like 10-10-10- or 16-16-16 .. is better.
5 - 3 - 3
N - P -K
10-10-10
so Plantone is almost twice as rich in Nitrogen in comparison to P and K. Also with cheap 10-10-10 or 16-16-16-16 you get a bigger bang from the buck because you use less of it to provide the same results.
The plant(Early Girli) is huge with about six thick branches, and lots and lots of blooms an green fruits. I believe it will continue to delivers ripe tomatoes continuously.
My Other tomato plants(Moistly small fruited) have lots of Tomatoes and should follow the suit soon. I have stopped fertilizing them, as they are quite healthy, w/nice foliage and lots of blooms.
I grow Momotaro every year. Sweet taste to me. And they
usually come in kind of early.
The ribbed ones are Kellogg's Breakfast. Not always
shaped like that though. Most of the time they're the
usual shape.
But I don't care what shape they have, KB is my all time
favorite tomato.
You will know that those 3-ring cages are worthless in practice. First, they are too narrow. Second, they are too short. Third, they are not sturdy.
Now, here is what you can do. Get 4 piece of 6 foot stake(wooden or rebar) . Drive them down, at equal spacing around the cage, so that they are about 15 inches away from the plant's main stem. So when you drive about one foot into the ground, you will end up with about 5ft above the ground. Now, weave those stakes together, such that all plant branches are inside.(starting from bottom to top).
You're right, treat them the same as reds.
I don't treat my yellows any different that
the reds/pinks/cherry etc. They all turn out fine with
the right watering and conditions.