16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
I have used some sort of food twice now (10-10-10?) and that stuff I tried my best to keep only at the base of my plants. But as for fertilizer...
I had a tiny bit of dirt left over in a bag from quite some time ago and my mom unceremoniously dumped it in between of my two left-most plants, so that's probably what that is (not sure it was fertilizer though? S: It wouldn't have gotten on the two right ones, in any case, and a few of their leaves are whitish too~
This information quoted from some source? If so, you need to credit the source. Comments taken out of context can often be misleading or misunderstood.
Yellow Leaves - Water-stressed tomato leaves are wilted but still green.
Initially true, but very soon the leaves turn yellow.
Yellowing leaves, on the other hand, are usually a sign that the tomato can't get enough oxygen or other nutrients,
True but what it doesn't make clear is that it is the over-watering, the high moisture level in the soil that creates the lack of oxygen and nutrients by displacing them with water.
diseases/soil deficiencies can also cause yellowing.
True but in most cases it is a very different color of yellow and the interveinal pattern of the leaves appears quite different.
Root Rot/Soil borne disease - Signs of a serious infection include yellow, dark-spotted or brown leaves and slow-growing, stressed tomato plants. Crowns are soft and the roots have large brown sections that may be rotted or desiccated.
(1) root rot is not a disease and (2) the same symptoms are not limited to soil borne diseases only as stated above. Air borne diseases can create the same symptoms.
Leaf Roll - As overwatered tomato plants mature and begin to set fruit, the topmost leaves curl inward and upward. The leaves themselves are firm, rigid or crumbly.
An oversimplification. Many things can cause "leaf roll". Physiological tomato leaf roll is a plant's response to stress and inconsistent watering/soil moisture levels (as opposed to just over-watering) is only one of the possible causes. Plus leaf roll often develops on the larger, older, lower leaves first, not the new growth. Top/new growth leaf roll is often more associated with disease than with over-watering.
JMO
Dave
Did your leaves look like the leaves in my picture? I am not sure my plant has late blight. It isn't progressing as quickly as Dave said it does and is not affecting the stems or fruit. You may not have late blight if it has been going on three weeks. It may be early blight which can usually be controlled with a fungicide.
Can I go ahead and peel/deseed them then freeze them until I have enough ripe to make sauce? Or will this diminish the flavor?
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You can do that, of course. But I would rather boil it a little and keep it in a sealed glass container in the frig.
Another way, after peeling deseeding, is to filter through a tight bag(much tighter than cheese cloth). Use the juice as beverage and save the paste/sauce in a zipper bag in frig.
I do my tomato paste this way to reduce energy cost and time. You can let the mast get to any thickness you want. I like mine like spaghetti sauce consistency. Then I just boil is for few minutes and can it.
I think you cant. But it is rich in nitrogen and therefore more suitable for leafy greens. Instead of that a cheaper all purpose like 10-10-10- or 16-16-16 .. is better.
5 - 3 - 3
N - P -K
10-10-10
so Plantone is almost twice as rich in Nitrogen in comparison to P and K. Also with cheap 10-10-10 or 16-16-16-16 you get a bigger bang from the buck because you use less of it to provide the same results.
The plant(Early Girli) is huge with about six thick branches, and lots and lots of blooms an green fruits. I believe it will continue to delivers ripe tomatoes continuously.
My Other tomato plants(Moistly small fruited) have lots of Tomatoes and should follow the suit soon. I have stopped fertilizing them, as they are quite healthy, w/nice foliage and lots of blooms.
I grow Momotaro every year. Sweet taste to me. And they
usually come in kind of early.
The ribbed ones are Kellogg's Breakfast. Not always
shaped like that though. Most of the time they're the
usual shape.
But I don't care what shape they have, KB is my all time
favorite tomato.
You will know that those 3-ring cages are worthless in practice. First, they are too narrow. Second, they are too short. Third, they are not sturdy.
Now, here is what you can do. Get 4 piece of 6 foot stake(wooden or rebar) . Drive them down, at equal spacing around the cage, so that they are about 15 inches away from the plant's main stem. So when you drive about one foot into the ground, you will end up with about 5ft above the ground. Now, weave those stakes together, such that all plant branches are inside.(starting from bottom to top).
Agree with Ed. You can't count on compost for nutrients in a container. There is no soil bacteria to convert it to nutrients. Container plants require weekly feeding. A common recommendation around here is 1/2 strength well-balanced fertilizer once a week minimum. More often if you are having to water daily.
Your watering regimen sounds a bit off too and is the most common cause of those yellow leaves. When you water do it well - until water runs out the bottom of the pot, Then do not water again until the soil 4" down is dry. Do NOT use the soil surface as a valid indication of the need for water. Stick your finger deep into the soil before watering. Keep in mind that over-watering kills more plants than under-watering.
Dave
Yes, definitely get rid of the BER tomatoes asap. No sense wasting anymore plant energy on those. So far you are fortunate with only a 'few.' Examine your tomatoes carefully just in case there are more. I hate it when I don't see it until the tomatoes get big, when I could have tossed them a week ago.
See the FAQ re BER
http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/tomato/
(2nd item on the list)
Here is a link that might be useful: tomato FAQ
I'm guessing we bought the same packet and it was mislabeled. At least you've got fruit! My blossoms haven't even opened (saw the first buds a week ago). Please join the discussion on the other thread and keep us posted on the progress!
Sure doesn't look like a determinate to me (what my packet read, I'm assuming you got the same packaging since you say it's hybrid 49 DTM)!
It's called "catfacing". We all deal with it at one time or another. It's caused by stress when the blossom is developing, including cold nights. The good news is that it usually occurs only on the first fruits. (Got much of my information by Googling.;-))
Black Krim is one of my favorites for both production and taste. Once this bout is over, I don't think you'll be disappointed.
I really appreciate your response. That makes total sense as they were planted in mid-May when temps were around their high 40- low 50 at that time. Thank you!
As of right now each plant only has about 3-4 fruits set and unfortunately a lot of dried up blossoms that never got set. The plants themselves are really nicely developed and are thick and about 4 â tall, hopefully youâÂÂre right and weâÂÂll more to come throughout the summer.
Yellow Pear is regular leaf, not potato.
BriAnDaren
You are right! I've been growing these for years and they always come true. I wonder what they are? Cherry sized, yellow and pear shaped..... I don't think mine are spitters, although they aren't the best tasting.
The seeds came from a seed sanctuary in Kingston, ON.
Not sure if you're serious about this question, but if you just let it go my money's on the mites in the long run.
I'll let you know in a few weeks.