16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Looks like something happened to that plant about 6 weeks or so ago that caused fusing of some stems in what was then a new developing growth tip.
FAIK there is no real official explanation for it, just speculation that it is some sort of genetic response to a shock of some kind.
Somewhat like what causes the megablooms and fused stems one sometimes sees when the plant is suddenly exposed to a spray of some kind, a pest attack, or an unusual cool period when newly forming. Sometimes the fusing is terminal for the branch or tip but sometimes the plant overcomes it and tries to recover. When it does the new growth is always weirdly deformed.
I have noticed with the newer version of Park's Whopper called Park's Whopper Improved that it is prone to more fusing with new growth. I have 4 of them growing and all have fused stems that I attribute to the weird weather patterns this past spring right after plant out.
I'm not saying that is for sure what this is, just reporting on the speculation based on my reading and personal observation. I'd be inclined to let it grow and see what happens just out of curiosity but you can always trim it off and let normal growth replace it.
Dave
I have this issue and I've read it can be caused by several things but is often not an issue in the ultimate health of the plant. I've also read that it is most common in determinate and early varieties. I have a Kimberly that has terribly curled leaves just like in your photo, but is otherwise healthy and putting on tomatoes like crazy. None ripe yet but nearly every blossom has set, which is not the case for my other uncurled plants. I am trying not to worry about it, but it does look bad.
That planting media looks dry to me. Put some mulch
on it to help retain moisture.
I used to container my tomatoes until I got a garden.
I had to water daily to keep the moisture level up. If
the containers drain well, it's almost impossible to overwater.
We were using a drip system, every day for 30 min and just switched to every other day for an hour.
Drip tape or inline drippers? What GPH are your drippers? I can't imagine why the plants would have to be watered daily or even every other day but only 30 mins. on a drip system isn't long at all. Unless you are running 3 or 4 gph drippers it is very shallow watering. If using drip tape instead what is the hole spacing on the tape That determines how long to run it.
My inline drippers are 1 gph and I water once every week if no rain and every 10-12 days depending on any rain we got. But my system runs for 2 1/2-3 hours at a time until I can stick my hand deep into the soil and feel the moisture at a good 6-8" down. That is deep watering.
It takes a long time for drip irrigation to deliver much water.
Dave
It's hard to make a schedule for watering. You have to
adjust depending on the local conditions and soil type.
Your goal should be consistent moisture at the root zone.
How you achieve that is the problem. One week might
be sunny, windy and dry and the next week overcast and no wind.
Check your soil and make the necessary adjustments to
keep it moist.
I'm in CA with caliche soil (heavily amended) Caliche will
turn into a brick in a day or two. I'm constantly checking
the soil and watering as needed.
If you put 'grafted' in the forum search box at the bottom of the forum page you'll find several previous discussions on the value of grafted tomatoes.
Opinions vary on the value of using them. Personally I find them to be an expensive marketing gimmick but they may be worth it to you.
Dave
Frankly MY take is the grafted brandywines are not worth a hoot in a tin bucket...I have been growing tomatoes for years, 80 plus per year...so I thought, hey I'll give the grafted brandywines a try...thankfully I wasted money on only six of them...they just sit there...no buds, no growth and no tomatoes...by the way...my eighty others are doing fine and well thank you very much...stick with what I know...so I'll toddle on out, pull the non performers and find some other items to take up their useless spaces...
Big grow out year. I have 155 heirloom varieties. Total plants 320. Trying to find what will grow well in my part of nc, and what we like. I have an old farm to play with and will give most away. Also trying to save seeds. Maybe even try to cross some. I did not like tomatoes until a cousin gave me some granny Cantrell a few years ago.so many varieties and so little time. This spring was cold and too wet. My plants are about a month late. I can not wait to get up each morning to see what is happening.
Hi, I think we're all waking up each morning to see what is going on. It's going to be a late tomato season I think. Weather is just so bizarre. I'm growing about 20 plants, probably 12 varieties. This year I started from seed for the first time in many years and went crazy trying all types. All heirlooms, many of them "black tomato" varieties, and withnthe exception of Black Cherry, i haven't grown any of them before, so it should be interesting. just hoping the weather stablizes.
I ended up with about 100 seedlings in my house. I gave the majority away to family and friends. I almost wore myself out moving the trays from windows to grow lights. Almost all of mine are in containers. I've always had better results. Also growing some eggplant and Cukes. Last year the cucumbers just died overnight.
So good luck everyone.
Agree. It sounds like the problem isn't a plant disease but what is in the containers. So putting new plants in will get the same results - burned roots.
Need to give us the exact name of the " organic potting soil and organic tomato fertilizer" used and how much of the fertilizer used. Also tell us how much and how often you watered them.
Dave
PS: including your garden zone or location would be a big help too.
If the containers don't drain well the roots rot. I have pots with big holes that still get blocked sometimes. Lack of drainage is a common way to kill plants even those that like lots of water.
Organic does not mean good necessarily. I would want a little perlite in there for drainage and that is inorganic. Many soil less potting mixes already have some fertilizer.
If you live where it is hot and sunny and the tomatoes had been in a protected partly shaded area, you kill them putting them in direct sun and wind unless you do it gradually.
If people know where you live, they know what problems you face.
Not fungus - the spots are too dry. I'm going with sun damage, could be fertilizer issue (I don't know since I don't fertilize). Though 5-5-5 shouldn't be a problem. Which Fafard did you use? Some contain a slight amount of nutrients (I use #2), that could possibly be an issue but they should grow out of it (those leaves won't recover) as you water. BTW, your mix looks like it has some bark in it? #2 just has peat moss and perlite.
SylviaGrace,
Yep, looks like sunburn to me too.
How long has it been since you transplanted them into the containers?
When you do water, does it run freely out of the bottom of the container initially or does it seem more like it is "seeping"?
Betsy
Okay, so here's what I did: I decided to give my Gardeners Supply self-watering kits one more try, so put those in two large pots I have and gave each tomato it's own pot. (But I'm still wondering what to do about the Early Girl Bush that already has 3 small tomatoes on it that are now sitting on the POTTING MIX (not soil!).
I also put a basil in its own pot that I will keep between the two tomatoes.
I'm worn out just from that effort so will try to figure out a support system/insect netting later. (With an autoimmune disease, I can't take much heat and sun, but I try to do a little gardening to keep active.)
Thanks for all your suggestions!
Oh by the way, has anyone done the method that someone over at container gardening (bitzppa) does of wrapping each tomato fruit in a bag to keep off insects? He said "frost mat" but I don't know what that is.
I would wait it out. My plants were looking quite similar although not as bad and after the rained stopped and it warmed up they exploded! I was getting really worried too but I decided the best thing to do was nothing. I am in 5b-6 as well here in southern Michigan and our weather just turned around although it looks like the rain is coming back for a while. My tomatoes were not the only thing effected either. My sweet corn also got that same purplish bronze look too and they bounced right back. I think it was too much rain and cold soil. Good luck! - Justin
I replaced all but 1 of my Rose De Bernes and SuperSweet 100s today, also replaced a couple of Grandma Mary's and may do 2-3 more. They were looking as bad as the poor potbound tomatoes that had been left outside at the garden center, and hadn't really put on much root growth in 3 weeks.
The Cosmonaut Volkov is looking pretty much the same, Brandywine, Rutgers, Cherokee Purple and Black Krim hanging in there. But the Mark Twain that I held back (only had 6) and planted on the 17th (just 4 days ago, but before another inch of rain) are starting to get that purple-black P deficient look the Cosmonaut have. I guess I really have to get a soil test ASAP but still wondering maybe liquid Neptune's Harvest this weekend for everything? May have to fertilize all summer?
We did have 1 night in the 40's (night before last - or actually early yesterday) but days have been in the 70's (upper 70's this week except for Wed) and most nights have been at least 50. I haven't checked the soil temp but assume that it's OK?
Neighbor on the ridge has nice looking plants (except for a little septoria), they had just as much rain and maybe colder nights so I'm thinking my problem is the soil (I didn't ask if she fertilizes but they have horses so maybe they manured the heck out of the garden area)? Oh, and they have landscape fabric down as mulch so maybe the soil IS a little warmer?
Just don't see how given the soil results above anything but N could have changed that drastically?
I want to get my peppers in this weekend, am amending heavily with the composted manure but don't know how much N is left in that now.
"Are any tomato varieties poisonous or not good for you?"
Yes,
Here is a link that might be useful: deadly tomato
This post was edited by michelliot on Fri, Jun 21, 13 at 10:06
Funny, I have 3 or 4 Sungold volunteers from last year sprouting as well. If I didn't have landscape material on my beds, I'm sure there'd be several more. Transplanted a couple and waiting to see what develops. Mine are only about 5 inches tall at this point, so it'll be a while.............enjoy,
elliot
Cherry varieties are notorious for producing tons of volunteers - sometimes for more than just the following season. All the volunteers is one reason why many older growers refuse to grow cherry types in their main gardens or even grow them at all.
I'm sure the stink bugs will love your "sacrificial" plant (aka trap plant). They don't care if the color, size, shape, flavor, skin thickness, etc. has changed from last year. But it won't keep them off your other plants either. They still find 'em.
Dave
So here's the same plant 10 days later. Honestly, does it look that bad? I'm still getting an occasional funky spot on a leaf or two but the tomatoes are starting to ripen with smooth skins and they taste great.
I PROMISE promise, promise that next year I will use a bigger pot!!!
Hi Ohiofem- I've read many threads on the tomato forum about trimming leaves...so I trimmed the leaves. :) I'm still learning what does and doesn't work.
Hi Sylviagrace-I bought the Miracle grow because that's what the nursery had. I figured if it said it was specifically for tomatoes then it would be okay. I'm having lots of flowers and tomatoes. But I did buy a new tomato food yesterday.
Hi Edweather-Is your whole garden in containers?
So the tomato food I bought is from a company called Grow More. It's 18-18-21. Does this sound appropriate for a containerized tomato plant?
I'm just starting a worm farm. Until I get that going, I'm stuck with what the local nursery is selling.
thanks everyone. I appreciate your thoughts and input.
Sylvia, There are many different kinds of MG for many different purposes. MG is a balanced fertilizer and if used as per the instructions is a good fertilizer. I use MG all purpose liquid in the yellow bottle almost exclusively and have excellent results. Yes if you pile nitrogen onto any plant it will grow lots of green foliage.
HeyJude2012, yes 95%+ of my garden is containers. And btw, your plant looks better from a distance. You are getting a decent amount of tomatoes and that's what counts.