16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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jennieboyer(8)

Carolyn,

Thank you for the quick reply. One thing I neglected to mention is that I planted both Black Cherry and Black Pearl. I'm trying to figure out which one this is. Whatever it is, it is very sweet - LOVE IT!

Jennie

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 7:07PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

IMO they don't look quite like my Black Cherries from TGS. I'm sure there are varying conditions that affect growth, but just thought I'd offer my opinion. My BCs are a bit larger, and more blackish/purple.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 7:28PM
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Moorlord

I would wait it out. My plants were looking quite similar although not as bad and after the rained stopped and it warmed up they exploded! I was getting really worried too but I decided the best thing to do was nothing. I am in 5b-6 as well here in southern Michigan and our weather just turned around although it looks like the rain is coming back for a while. My tomatoes were not the only thing effected either. My sweet corn also got that same purplish bronze look too and they bounced right back. I think it was too much rain and cold soil. Good luck! - Justin

    Bookmark     June 15, 2013 at 8:24PM
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2ajsmama

I replaced all but 1 of my Rose De Bernes and SuperSweet 100s today, also replaced a couple of Grandma Mary's and may do 2-3 more. They were looking as bad as the poor potbound tomatoes that had been left outside at the garden center, and hadn't really put on much root growth in 3 weeks.

The Cosmonaut Volkov is looking pretty much the same, Brandywine, Rutgers, Cherokee Purple and Black Krim hanging in there. But the Mark Twain that I held back (only had 6) and planted on the 17th (just 4 days ago, but before another inch of rain) are starting to get that purple-black P deficient look the Cosmonaut have. I guess I really have to get a soil test ASAP but still wondering maybe liquid Neptune's Harvest this weekend for everything? May have to fertilize all summer?

We did have 1 night in the 40's (night before last - or actually early yesterday) but days have been in the 70's (upper 70's this week except for Wed) and most nights have been at least 50. I haven't checked the soil temp but assume that it's OK?

Neighbor on the ridge has nice looking plants (except for a little septoria), they had just as much rain and maybe colder nights so I'm thinking my problem is the soil (I didn't ask if she fertilizes but they have horses so maybe they manured the heck out of the garden area)? Oh, and they have landscape fabric down as mulch so maybe the soil IS a little warmer?

Just don't see how given the soil results above anything but N could have changed that drastically?

I want to get my peppers in this weekend, am amending heavily with the composted manure but don't know how much N is left in that now.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 6:46PM
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michelliot(z7 ny)

"Are any tomato varieties poisonous or not good for you?"

Yes,

Here is a link that might be useful: deadly tomato

This post was edited by michelliot on Fri, Jun 21, 13 at 10:06

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 10:00AM
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drewbym(MO6B)

michelliot,

LOL

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 6:24PM
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michelliot(z7 ny)

Funny, I have 3 or 4 Sungold volunteers from last year sprouting as well. If I didn't have landscape material on my beds, I'm sure there'd be several more. Transplanted a couple and waiting to see what develops. Mine are only about 5 inches tall at this point, so it'll be a while.............enjoy,

elliot

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 3:03PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Cherry varieties are notorious for producing tons of volunteers - sometimes for more than just the following season. All the volunteers is one reason why many older growers refuse to grow cherry types in their main gardens or even grow them at all.

I'm sure the stink bugs will love your "sacrificial" plant (aka trap plant). They don't care if the color, size, shape, flavor, skin thickness, etc. has changed from last year. But it won't keep them off your other plants either. They still find 'em.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 4:49PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Difficult to know what may have happened since you were gone. Best guess would be nutrient deficiency or root rot from the heavy rain. Are they in ground or in containers? Makes a big difference.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 1:16PM
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whocarezz(Nor-Cal: 9b)

Dwarf Goldilox it ain't!
Garden Peach it is................
Ping Pong ball size, light yellow 2 oz. fruit with a slight peach blush and fuzz. plant is about 6' tall & quite prolific.
Taste is average, IMHO, I will not grow it again....

T.........

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 1:01PM
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whocarezz(Nor-Cal: 9b)

Dwarf Goldilox it ain't!
Garden Peach it is................
Ping Pong ball size, light yellow 2 oz. fruit with a slight peach blush and fuzz. plant is about 6' tall & quite prolific.
Taste is average to bland, IMHO. I will not grow it again....

T.........

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 1:04PM
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robeb

You might want to ask this over on the hydroponics forum.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 11:07AM
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Newatthis22

At this point, I'm just trying to catch them all. Check every day or so and catch the couple I can find.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 11:36PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Well your pic shows tomato fruitworm damage (holes eaten out from the inside). You will never see or catch tomato fruitworms until after the damage has been done.

So why not prevent the damage rather than throw away fruit?

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato fruitworms

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 8:56AM
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tomatovator21

Marianna's Peace seeds for sale here in 2013:

Tatiana's TOMATObase Seeds
Delectation of Tomatoes - new
Double Helix Farms
Gourmet Seed International
Heritage Harvest Seed
Heritage Tomato Seed
Hazzard's Wholesale Seeds
Knapp's Fresh Vegies
Sand Hill Preservation Center
Solana Seeds
Tomato Growers Supply
Tomatofest
Trade Winds Fruit
Victory Seed Company

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 5:52AM
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tomatovator21

It is important to spell variety names correctly as misspelled names can eventually become commonly used and it can get very confusing. I did not know if "Monotaro" was a new variety or a misspelling of "Momotaro". Thanks for clearing that up.

This post was edited by Tomatovator1 on Fri, Jun 21, 13 at 6:03

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 6:01AM
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northernmn(3/4)

I have the same thing happening here in northern MN.

It is much more pronounced this year than previous years. It is also happening on all of my varieties.(5)

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 10:25PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

What you call "Branches touching hips" ate NOT branches. They are LEAVES. Tomato has so-called COMPUND leaves. Some of the can get quite long. So those leaves ten to CASCADE.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 3:06AM
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thebutcher(6b (Philadelphia area))

Here is an update on Baby Ramapos F-1

1 of the tomatoe plants maybe a 4th of july, but I am prety sure the majority except for 1 is Ramapos. To the right is my Bell peppers incase anyone is wondering but pretty much off this photo.

How do you think they are doing? The soil mix for the Ramapos and 4th of july are Espoma organic, the Black Krim which will be a seperate thread with the other Ramapos is MG organic.

I think my total seedlings are about 12 Ramabo, 5 Black Krims and 8 4th of july's to date. With a back up round begining in 2 weeks just incase.

Thanks again for comments and looking,

-Mr Beno

    Bookmark     April 2, 2013 at 9:22PM
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thebutcher(6b (Philadelphia area))

Update on the Baby Ramapos. Aprox... 100 days since germination.

Many blooms are popping as well with them green marbles. In some other posts I thought I had a problem with losing blossoms, but patience is the right aproach and the key as many experts at this great forum mentioned. (The photo is dark I know but just got done work and had to check on them babies,)

More Photo updates coming soon.

Many thanks to everyone once again.

-Mr Beno

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 11:57PM
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skeip

Thanks for the info and the link, Dave, that's what I thought. I tried mucking through past posts, but must have missed that very obvious one! Thanks again.

Steve

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 4:03PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I have grown tomato plants by direct sowing in the garden. When you have a long growing hot season , you can do it. Of course , I had other plants already (from seedlings) and the direct sown ones were just addition for canning.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 9:17PM
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mule

Julia

I think you had the correct diagnosis.

Once you see this disease and how fast it acts, you don't easily forget it. I saw it with some frequency throughout growers fields in the southeast. Even methyl bromide treatments were not that effective of preventing it once it set into a field.

In the short term it is hard to say whether or not the other plants will get it or not. It can be spotty in a field or eventually take out large areas.

It's a pretty nasty disease once it sets in an area.

For the long term it is in the soil and you will likely see it again if you plant in that same spot.

I listed a site below but recommend googling other edu sources to see if there are other newer recommendations for dealing with it. It is a problem in Florida so I suspect this link will probably be as good as it gets.

Only a handful of varieties show some resistance to this disease. I doubt that you will be able to find them even if I told you which ones. Most of these lines were developed 50 or more years ago.

Since methyl bromide has been banned there has been some renewed interest in looking at these older lines and breeding for resistance. If they make headway it still will be years away and likely released in commercial lines.

I have some of these old lines. I started to make crosses to heirlooms with them over a decade ago. Since I moved more north (and west) I lost interest and the project went on the backburner. I have recently started to work with it again. It's difficult for me because I have no way to test them (and dont want one!). I instead will use a breeding scheme which will increase my chances of retaining the resistance.

I cannot share seed of the original source lines. My source was through the university they were developed and the USDA (back in the 90's). Last I looked the lines had been pulled from the USDA list. Over a decade ago I did offer seed of these lines but there was little interest. If anyone of those people did keep seed it might be around. I did not keep record of who I sent them too. But I have never seen anyone offer these lines. They are what I would call "standard" field tomatoes (avg tasting, good sized red round balls) so I suspect without knowing or understanding what they really had most would have probably not cared to save them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Integrated Management of Southern Blight in Vegetable Production

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 8:44PM
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Julie717

Thanks Dave, I'm not sure about damping off. I don't think I was overwatering because I hadn't watered in more than a week. It had rained about four days before, but only about an inch. That's what made me think it might just be drought stress at first.

I guess overcrowding is possible, they are only planted about 3 ft apart, however there is only one row. These are mature plants about 4ft tall with lots of tomatoes.

Thanks Mule, for the info and the link (I am Julie, another poster named Julia responded). It was Monday when I pulled the plant and so far the others look fine but I keep thinking I will come home from work one of these evenings to a row of dead plants. That was the weirdest thing I've ever seen, at least as far as gardening goes;). I sort of expected to find all the roots had been eaten by a critter or something when I pulled it.

It sounds like all I can do about this year's plants is cross my fingers and hope for the best, in either case. I am considering solarizing the soil in my tomato patch, and I will definitely be planting in a different location next year.

I will try to remember to update this thread to let you all know how the other plants turn out.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 9:15PM
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Amy913

Was browsing Instructables and came across this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/self-watering-planter-from-found-dresser-drawers/
Thought this idea might work- or at least be adaptable/something to think about ;-)

If you ever get around to building something, please post it!

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 5:41PM
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Amy913

Was browsing Instructables and came across this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/self-watering-planter-from-found-dresser-drawers/
Thought this idea might work- or at least be adaptable/something to think about ;-)

If you ever get around to building something, please post it!

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 5:42PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

That is BER (Blossom End Rot). See the FAQ linked below and if you need more details the search will pull up lots of discussions.

Primary cause is young plants getting inconsistent soil moisture so the calcium isn't distributed throughout the fruit. As plant matures and IF you stabilize the soil moisture levels it goes away. But if you have more than 1 Brandywine in the same Earthbox IME it will be difficult to do that. Been using EB for several years and they handle 1 big indeterminate well, 2 big indeterminate plants are very problematic.

Meanwhile toss the affected fruit to reduce stress on the plant.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: BER FAQ

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 5:11PM
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Prachi(6b (NJ))

Thanks! Both plants are about 5 ft tall but one definitely is producing tomatoes better than the other... maybe I will just take the second one out.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 5:22PM
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