16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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gelatodave

super snow white

    Bookmark     June 15, 2013 at 4:16PM
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gelatodave

super sweet 100

    Bookmark     June 15, 2013 at 4:17PM
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fireduck(10a)

C...lots of diverse comments here...I will not address my opinion on the "best" way to grow tomatoes. As to your specific problem...I think you probably answered your own question regarding the rain. Containers (depending on mix) will usually drain water faster. Thus, the containers are healthier now..with more aeration in the soil (very important). All should stabilize soon. Pray for sun.

    Bookmark     June 15, 2013 at 10:32AM
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teeooh(4a)

I suspect is is differences in the soil and not the beds/container.

I also suggest you remove the wood chips. They do pull out nitrogen. Since your plants are yellow - I think you may have low nitrogen.

BTW - I have also had non stop rain and temps bellow 70 and my tomoatoes in raised beds look like your plants in the container. This is a new house for us and I am using two raised beds that the previous owner left and one I built myself. I did not know what shape the soil was in (though she was an awesome gardner - and it looked great). I filled my new bed with 2/3 ordinary soil and 1/3 compost and manure mix from Home Depot. I only fertilized about two weeks after planting because the weather has been so bad and cool.

This post was edited by Timmytoo on Sat, Jun 15, 13 at 12:52

    Bookmark     June 15, 2013 at 12:44PM
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spicymeatball

No list of possible symptoms of overwatering?

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 7:56PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

That curling & twisting is herbicide damage. Likely 2,4-D. Could have been used anywhere in the vicinity, including down the block.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 11:30PM
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wmu_ix_netcom_com

Thanks solanaceae! Your fact-based answer really helped me when considering spacing. I'll have to use stakes due to space issues, but regardless of the type of support thanks for concisely answering the issue of spacing!

I could only space them at 18", but feel better knowing that will work well.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2009 at 9:24AM
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vijay_devan

Thanks solanaceae, your informative post has benefited many more (including the original poster). Most people forget that these posts are search-able vis google, and has much larger reach than just posters on this forum.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 8:53PM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

To be able to suggest what might be wrong with your plant, it would be helpful to know more about the environment it is in. So, here are the "usual" questions:

Is the plant in the ground or in a container?

If in a container, what growing medium are you using? How large is the container? Is it self-watering or do you manually water it? Is the container in full sun, part sun or shade?

For both container plants and inground plants, it would be helpful to know these things as well: How often do you water? Have you checked the moisture of the growing medium or soil 3-5" below the surface? Is it dry, just right, or soggy? Are you feeding the plant? How often? What are the NPK values of any fertilizers you are using to feed it? What has the weather been like in your area?

If the plant is in the ground: Have you used any amendments? Do you mulch? If so, with what and how much (how deep)? Are there any other plants near the problem plant that are showing similar issues?

Can you post pictures?

The more information you can give us, the better the chances that someone can give you an accurate diagnosis.

Betsy

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 5:49PM
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afbq(7)

Do you guys think that compost tea would help the soil (in the fall once I harvest what I can). I also love the top to bottom fix, which I will do! IT's a great solution.

Also I've transplanted some of the plants into containers. I hope they make it.

I did a basic soil test and it read the soil at 6.5. I will have to get a more comprehensive one done but for now it's what i have.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 3:33PM
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nubiegardener

Phytophthora. Search it up. It's a horrible viral condition that occurs when you have poor drainage as you do. I built my raised bed where water collects and found out that some of my plants were extremely stunted, yellow and diseased. I pulled one up and the roots were brown and very unhealthy. If you pull one out and look at the roots, you'll definitely be able to tell. But judging from your first picture of the tomato, phytophthora is definitely a possibility.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 5:26PM
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Stellabee(7, Atlanta)

I'm in hot, humid Georgia and have a Green Zebra that is thriving in my amended clay soil (in ground). It is just starting to flower and set fruit-shows no sign of disease. I don't know much about your soil there though or your composting habits...??

In any case, mine is doing really well in the ground so far. I actually wish I planted more of them.

Oh, and nitrogen fertilizer is usually a bad idea before you get your first fruit set. A lot of tomato experts say to fertilize mid-season after you've gotten a bit of fruit to spur on more growth.

Hope this helps.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 2:51PM
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LuisBatista

This is another image! :(

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 4:51AM
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tomatovator21
    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 12:03PM
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dickiefickle(5B Dousman,Wi.)

Bad soil mix and do you have drain holes in the containers?

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 4:31AM
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sjetski(6b NJ)

Transplant/root shock will hold them back for a while, it depends on how bad the root structure was. Another sign of transplants with bad root structure is having plants wilt in the heat of the day, then perking back up at night.

But i agree with what everyone posted above, lack of oxygen flow in a compacted potting medium will stop plants from growing. It needs to be a potting type mix. They may linger in their stunted form for a while, put out a few "survival" tomatoes, then yellow up and die a few weeks ahead of your other tomato plants.

Hopefully that's not the case, but two weeks without growing is a long time imho.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 9:48AM
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avocado101(9A Southern California)

Here's picture of my black plums. They are still green. They are egg shaped, and this is normal. Little bit larger than a quarter.

The second picture is a picture of sungold cherry tomatoes. The cherry tomatoes are smaller than a Quarter.

I planted them on April 1st.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 11:35PM
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mbrowne(9b Central CA)

Thanks for all the feedback. If it's not really a Black Cherry I guess that would explain the elongation. And it was a Bonnie. It's not very tasty, and has a thick skin. Anyway, here's a shot for scale:

I plan to pull it and replace with another, maybe real, Black Cherry.

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 2:14PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Have no idea what the "crap" you refer to is or even what Bonnie little green jug is. If it is a fertilizer it sure isn't a commonly used one. But the problem isn't the fertilizers but applying it to seedlings as you did.

Plants need feeding, seedlings need little to none and when given some it has to be very well diluted down from full strength.

Odds are it will recover in time tho you may lose those leaves. Flush the container out with pure water to force most of it to drain out of the pot.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 12:30PM
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charlieboring

The damage you see is a minor amount of fertilizer burn.

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 2:13PM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

All of those things would prefer their own pot because of the different needs they have. The tomato looks like it might recover and grow if given it's very own, larger (perhaps much larger depending on variety) container. Soon. It also looks like maybe it has had too much water recently. Cheers!

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 9:30AM
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monet_g

Cindy,
I think tomato plants are a lot easier to grow in the ground. If you can find some room in the garden it could make your first tomato growing experience more enjoyable.
Gail

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 9:48AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Hi Mr. Beno, Growing some in containers was an excellent decision this year. They will do fine......almost impossible to overwater, and they will keep draining well with only minimal problems.

This post was edited by edweather on Wed, Jun 12, 13 at 20:11

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 6:40PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I have found out(could be wrong) that curling leave is due to cool temperatures. It is a way to minimize surface exposure to cold: less exposure = less heat loss. I cannot understand why a leaf would curl because of too much water?!

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 4:16AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Populations vary from year to year.

Nothing is a constant in a garden. Just when you thik you have all your ducks in a row, nature changes the game plan.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 1:29PM
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pennypond USDA 10 Sunset 21 CA

I was told kale can be a magnet to aphids. My kale is covered with aphids, but less than 3 feet away the tomato is fine.

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 3:33AM
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