16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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afbq(7)

Do you guys think that compost tea would help the soil (in the fall once I harvest what I can). I also love the top to bottom fix, which I will do! IT's a great solution.

Also I've transplanted some of the plants into containers. I hope they make it.

I did a basic soil test and it read the soil at 6.5. I will have to get a more comprehensive one done but for now it's what i have.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 3:33PM
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nubiegardener

Phytophthora. Search it up. It's a horrible viral condition that occurs when you have poor drainage as you do. I built my raised bed where water collects and found out that some of my plants were extremely stunted, yellow and diseased. I pulled one up and the roots were brown and very unhealthy. If you pull one out and look at the roots, you'll definitely be able to tell. But judging from your first picture of the tomato, phytophthora is definitely a possibility.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 5:26PM
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Stellabee(7, Atlanta)

I'm in hot, humid Georgia and have a Green Zebra that is thriving in my amended clay soil (in ground). It is just starting to flower and set fruit-shows no sign of disease. I don't know much about your soil there though or your composting habits...??

In any case, mine is doing really well in the ground so far. I actually wish I planted more of them.

Oh, and nitrogen fertilizer is usually a bad idea before you get your first fruit set. A lot of tomato experts say to fertilize mid-season after you've gotten a bit of fruit to spur on more growth.

Hope this helps.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 2:51PM
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LuisBatista

This is another image! :(

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 4:51AM
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tomatovator21
    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 12:03PM
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dickiefickle(5B Dousman,Wi.)

Bad soil mix and do you have drain holes in the containers?

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 4:31AM
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sjetski(6b NJ)

Transplant/root shock will hold them back for a while, it depends on how bad the root structure was. Another sign of transplants with bad root structure is having plants wilt in the heat of the day, then perking back up at night.

But i agree with what everyone posted above, lack of oxygen flow in a compacted potting medium will stop plants from growing. It needs to be a potting type mix. They may linger in their stunted form for a while, put out a few "survival" tomatoes, then yellow up and die a few weeks ahead of your other tomato plants.

Hopefully that's not the case, but two weeks without growing is a long time imho.

    Bookmark     June 14, 2013 at 9:48AM
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avocado101(9A Southern California)

Here's picture of my black plums. They are still green. They are egg shaped, and this is normal. Little bit larger than a quarter.

The second picture is a picture of sungold cherry tomatoes. The cherry tomatoes are smaller than a Quarter.

I planted them on April 1st.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 11:35PM
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mbrowne(9b Central CA)

Thanks for all the feedback. If it's not really a Black Cherry I guess that would explain the elongation. And it was a Bonnie. It's not very tasty, and has a thick skin. Anyway, here's a shot for scale:

I plan to pull it and replace with another, maybe real, Black Cherry.

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 2:14PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Have no idea what the "crap" you refer to is or even what Bonnie little green jug is. If it is a fertilizer it sure isn't a commonly used one. But the problem isn't the fertilizers but applying it to seedlings as you did.

Plants need feeding, seedlings need little to none and when given some it has to be very well diluted down from full strength.

Odds are it will recover in time tho you may lose those leaves. Flush the container out with pure water to force most of it to drain out of the pot.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 12:30PM
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charlieboring

The damage you see is a minor amount of fertilizer burn.

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 2:13PM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

All of those things would prefer their own pot because of the different needs they have. The tomato looks like it might recover and grow if given it's very own, larger (perhaps much larger depending on variety) container. Soon. It also looks like maybe it has had too much water recently. Cheers!

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 9:30AM
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monet_g

Cindy,
I think tomato plants are a lot easier to grow in the ground. If you can find some room in the garden it could make your first tomato growing experience more enjoyable.
Gail

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 9:48AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Hi Mr. Beno, Growing some in containers was an excellent decision this year. They will do fine......almost impossible to overwater, and they will keep draining well with only minimal problems.

This post was edited by edweather on Wed, Jun 12, 13 at 20:11

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 6:40PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I have found out(could be wrong) that curling leave is due to cool temperatures. It is a way to minimize surface exposure to cold: less exposure = less heat loss. I cannot understand why a leaf would curl because of too much water?!

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 4:16AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Populations vary from year to year.

Nothing is a constant in a garden. Just when you thik you have all your ducks in a row, nature changes the game plan.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 1:29PM
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pennypond USDA 10 Sunset 21 CA

I was told kale can be a magnet to aphids. My kale is covered with aphids, but less than 3 feet away the tomato is fine.

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 3:33AM
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suncitylinda

Thanks AJ. That is quite a bit more dramatic then what I was dealing with but still, never knew it was one of the signs of herbicide damage.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 10:05PM
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stevesloman

Thanks ajsmama

They look harder hit because glyphosate has been sprayed directly onto the plants. I did suspect this but thank you very much for confirming it.

Steve

    Bookmark     June 13, 2013 at 3:17AM
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hoosier40 6a Southern IN

They are either too dry or have some sort of root issue. Check the soil moisture down several inches. The first sign of overly dry condition is wilting down in the hottest part of the day, and then recovering when it cools down.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 9:12PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Yes, agree. Carefully check the plant near the soil level for any damage, bug, worm, etc, to the main stem.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 9:59PM
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Steve, Z (6Bground,5B roof) Cincy,OH

Its not your particular plant. I've many an the plant that produce big tomatoes. I am combing my plant for one but I have not found one yet.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 8:11PM
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julia42(9a)

I kind of like the funky shaped tomatoes that come from these type of blossoms. Maybe not so great for the market, but I think they often have their own beauty.

Dig something ugly, man!

I've heard you shouldn't save seed from them though since they're easier for the pollinators to get into (and therefore cross pollinate).

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 8:46PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Flea beetles. No real threat to the plant. The damage they do is minimal and they don't stay around for long so no intervention is required.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 4:24PM
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srg215(6b nj)

Thanks Dave!

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 7:47PM
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jadie88(7 MD)

I may have found my answer... "Grey mold" can resemble the reproductive phase of late blight. Okie dokie, I can sleep better tonight! :)

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 1:11PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Yes, gray mold. aka botrytis.

    Bookmark     June 12, 2013 at 1:26PM
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