16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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carolyn137(z4/5 NY)

I buy my Jet Star F1 seeds from Harris Seeds since they were the ones that bred it along with Supersonic F1 and Moreton Hybrid. I like all three but Jet Star F1 is my favorite.

Carolyn

    Bookmark     June 22, 2012 at 2:15PM
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berryman19

I'm glad to find this blog but not happy about it. I also planted Jet Star for the first time spring '13 and my plants and trusses look exactly like those at the beginning of this blog. They have from 12-25 blossoms per truss, some look like 2 trusses near enough to be a double. The fruit setting appears it is going to be like a grape or Porter Tomato. They are setting fruit very good even in this East Texas heat, but they sure ain't jet Star.
Like some others the seed packet is Ferry-Morse 20 Pelleted Seeds, bought from Wal Mart Feb '13 dated 2012 LOT J1. The pkt has an 800 number, wonder if they'd answer? Larry

    Bookmark     June 10, 2013 at 12:56PM
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suncitylinda

I have used Kelloggs PatioPlus in containers before but I live in a very hot arid climate. The product does contain manures and compost as I recall which could allow the container to become compacted and waterlogged. Most container growers advocate a soiless mix, based on things like sphagnum peat moss, perlite and bark.

Tomatoes tend to be fast growers and heavy feeders. Growing them with only organic ferts in a container can be challenging. In addition to watering issues you could be seeing some nutrient deficiency.

I throw my hat in with the "no rocks in the bottom of the pot" clan.

    Bookmark     June 10, 2013 at 12:36AM
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theterabyteboy

Thank you all for your help.

How often do you think I should water them and how much do you think I should give them each time I do water them?

Also, should I add some type of wicking now? Is that still possible? and if so, what do you recommend?

Thank you!

    Bookmark     June 10, 2013 at 12:37PM
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pk333111

Why is it that just the tops are wilting or drooping and not the other plants?

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 8:01PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

There could be any number of reasons. Maybe the ground level is a bit lower there and so the water collects there. Maybe the soil in a particular spot doesn't drain as well - that is common. Maybe the soil grubs are thicker in that area. Maybe those particular plants weren't planted as deep so are more shallow rooted.

Maybe they are a different variety - you don't say what they are - and different varieties respond in different ways. Maybe before the storm even came those particular plants were already root stressed from over-watering or poor drainage - most people way over-water anyway - so the storm affected them more. Those are just a few of the possible explanations.

The tops, the new growth, reflect what is going on with the roots before the rest of the plant does so that is why you see the tops drooping - they are root stressed/damaged.

Bottom line is, just like any plant, they will either adjust to the growing conditions and recover or they won't and will die. But they certainly don't need more water. That would be the worst thing to do for them.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 8:25PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree. It is very common and assuming the plant is in a big enough container so that it isn't rootbound then they pose no problems. As mentioned their appearance is an indicator of overly wet conditions or a rootbound plant. If the wetness is due to the weather you can't control it other than to insure well-draining soil and make sure you don't over-water. If other symptoms of stress develop I would suspect the plant may be rootbound.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 7, 2013 at 6:12PM
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2ajsmama

I'd take that sucker off and stick it in another pot - bonus!

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 6:26PM
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ddsack

Mine were about 5' up here in the north.

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 5:05PM
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2ajsmama

We'll see how they do here. Got everything in except for 6 Mark Twain I'll try to do tomorrow. Of course I have backups (extra) of everything except the Camp Joy and Cheeseman's, now DH tells me we're supposed to get another 2" of rain tomorrow (had over 2" on Friday, 3.5" last week, 7" since May 19).

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 6:15PM
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overdrive

Hi, I asked this question, about suckers, and overwhelming response is DO NOT CUT ANY SUCKERS!!! This is like having a sailboat, and throwing away the sails, and then wondering why you are going nowhere -
this is the link to why not to prune suckers:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg0609471311477.html?14
have a nice day - oh, and i think they are toast, plant are definitely ruined.

Here is a link that might be useful: read about how to grow tomatoes.

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 3:26AM
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kathyb912_in (5a/5b, Central IN)

"they are toast, plant are definitely ruined."

Absolutely disagree. As has been stated, lots of people trim the lowest leaves/branches of their tomatoes to help with airflow and soil being splashed on the leaves during watering. Assuming the kids didn't strip the plants bare and the top is still growing well, I think you'll be fine. You might get some reduced production, but that is a far cry from completely ruining the plants.

What varieties of tomatoes are they, and where are you located? More information can help fine tune your answers. :)

Kathy

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 1:16PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

You can. Make sure it is supported(staked, caged). Also, I would clear about one circular feet around it. Peas are not going to be around all season ?

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 12:37PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I wouldn't do it intentionally since they have very different nutrient needs and I wouldn't want peas climbing my tomato plants. But in a situation like yours I' probably do the same.

The question in my mind would be if it was worth letting the plant grow if it is a hybrid throwback. If all you planted there last year were hybrids then the tomato plant won't breed true anyway but might still be worth seeing what develops on it.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 12:56PM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

This is from the About.com: Home Cooking page on Tomato Storage and Selection Information:

"Refrigeration is the enemy of the tomato as it nullifies flavor and turns the flesh mealy. The culprit is a compound called Z-3 hexenel, which accounts for the tomato's scent and taste. The development process which turns tomato's linolenic acid to the Z-3 that makes our mouth and nose sing is hindered by cold. If you must refrigerate a tomato, take it out about an hour before using it to let it return to room temperature to revive any lurking Z-3."

I hope that helps.

Betsy

Here is a link that might be useful: 5 Common Mistakes that Ruin Your Fresh Tomatoes, and How to Avoid Them

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 7:58PM
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klem1

Betsy,I am so happy you posted that link. If you ask 100 people on the street why super market tomatoes are tastless 90 will say "because the are produced in hothouses." The information also tells use why saving seed from a beautiul store bought tomatoe is a bad idea.
And for those who have always known the 5 tips,it's comforting to see from the pictures that home grown tomatoes arn't supposed to have unblemished skin. Kinda like a lady with perfect skin ,soft hands and long manicured nails. You know she doesn't wash dishes nor garden so that's 2 strikes starting off.

    Bookmark     June 9, 2013 at 2:54AM
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nj_cheryl

Look at that BEAUTY!

    Bookmark     June 2, 2013 at 10:11PM
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sneezer2(5)

Congratulations. It's good to hear you've got results from
all the trouble of getting these seeds and nice to know you
have a friend who would send them to you.

I believe you already know that in extremis you can actually
buy them from there using a Visa and have a good
expectation of them arriving in your mailbox.

I have been growing Dona F1 for over ten years and it is
still my favorite. Of course it is a mild flavor but I appreciate
it for its subtlety and complexity.

Just for general information, Vilmorin is a large plant breeder
and has released many tomato varieties. Most of them are
aimed at the commercial greenhouse market. I believe that
Dona was originally in that category until about 2007, when
Vilmorin discontinued it. A few years later they re-released
it in response to gardener demand. You can see on the
face of the packet where it says "Mes cultures facilitees",
which means "My easy growing". That suggests that it is
now regarded as a "consumer's" or "gardener's" variety.
Fortunately Vilmorin also caters to that market.

Interestingly there is another Vilmorin release called
Rebelion F1, dating from around 2008. It is one that they
claim to taste good, which is a rarity in their promotional
material. It is billed as a large beefsteak type with a ribbed
configuration. It's hard to discern what the actual
parentage may be but I conjecture from the results of a
lot of searching that it is largely from the Marmande OP
line, via the Spanish RAF and likely has some American
Beefsteak in there too. Basically unavailable, even in
Europe, through any channel except commercial
greenhouse suppliers, but I have a few growing and have
high hopes for it. We will see how it works out.

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 11:33PM
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sjetski(6b NJ)

Does seem like weather, possible drainage & transplant issues, combined. The bad part is the plants are now prone to infections. I'd snip, or partially snip any branches hanging too close to the ground, those often get infected first.

Hard to tell from the pics, but yes, you should probably swap out any plants that look heavily affected. You may also want to begin treatment sprays, a few popular ones that work well are serenade, copper, sulphur, daconil (google search). You can alternate between two different sprays, just spread it out over a week or two, or right after rainstorms.

This post was edited by sjetski on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 9:25

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 9:24AM
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Reach_For_The_Sun(6)

When I pulled them out I did spray them with Fungonil.I mulched with newspaper and grass over top so that there would be less soil splashing onto the leaves. Sprayed again today.

I don't know whether to take off the diseased looking leaves as that is only what some of them have. So I figure some leaves is better than none. I will have to wait on my container tomatoes to get suckers before I can replace them so I will have to wait either way.

This post was edited by Reach_For_The_Sun on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 21:45

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 9:43PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The holes look like bug damage, probably flea beetles. No major problem.

The most likely cause of stunted plants is the root damage done by over-watering, especially if you have been experiencing all the extra rain that has affect much of the country.

None of us ever think we are over-watering yet we are. When we make ourselves cut back on it the plants always seem to improve. And when someone says "plenty of water" I immediately cringe and think over-watering since tomato plants don't need much to begin with. :)

So assuming the plants have sufficient nutrients available in the soil - their color in the pic isn't good - then my best guess is poor root developments from being too wet. It can't hurt to give it a try - cutting your watering in half - and see if they don't perk up.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 7:35PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

I think there alot of people in the NE with plants that are behind schedule this year, including yours truly.

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 7:41PM
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jadie88(7 MD)

Ha...I knew there had to be something I was missing! I'll check out our sprayer and kick myself for not figuring that out sooner. I was crouched down this morning trying to spray up and thinking there had to be a better way!

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 4:58PM
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pennypond USDA 10 Sunset 21 CA

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I'm learning something new!

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 7:25PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

This is a post for the Composting forum. I linked it for you below.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Soil & Composting forum

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 3:23PM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

You might have psyllids, and those "salt like' grains are what is known as psyllid sugar.

Rather than copy and paste or retype info, I've linked to an older GardenWeb thread about psyllids.

Hopefully that is not what the issue is or if it is, you can get it under control quickly.

Betsy

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread about psyllids

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 11:43AM
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sandiego4s

Thanks for the link. I touched the white grains, it's sticky and there are several psyllid on the picture too.

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 12:29PM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

Serge,

Nice looking tomato plants!

If your in-laws did water every day, I do think you are correct in diagnosing the leaf curl on your tomatoes. Give them a few days for the soil moisture to normalize and the leaves will return to normal.

Watering every 2-3 days may be more than is necessary. A good deep watering is preferal to frequent shallow waterings. Deep waterings followed by a few days without watering encourages tomatoes to grow deeper root systems which are less susceptible to surface soil variations.

Betsy

Here is a link that might be useful: Leaf Roll

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 11:29AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Definitely from stress of some sort. Mine did that during a hot summer. Some plants will curl their leaves as a result of stress in order to protect themselves. The good news is that it doesn't seem to affect the growth of the plant, and they should be fine either way.

    Bookmark     June 8, 2013 at 12:26PM
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