16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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sjetski(6b NJ)

Howdy Hudson.

On August 18th, 2013, you posted a Better Boy and Brandy Boy Cross. Meant to ask if you followed up by saving seed and replanting it? I realize that there's a lot of variance in the F2 and F3 generations, but if good lineage(s) are selected and stabilized then *Better Brandy Boy OP* could be a real keeper.

Oh, btw, i'm going to flood my friends, family and coworkers with extra Brandy Boy starts this year, haha. They're doing great in real sunshine as opposed to indoor lighting, they will be ready for plant-out the 2nd or 3rd week of May, which is the norm around here.

Steve

    Bookmark     April 19, 2015 at 10:09AM
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hudson___wy(3)

Your are right PC - besides - I got to smell my fingers after pruning some suckers this morning - haha. Good luck on the Dwarf BB - I would plant it!

Hi Steve - no, I didn't save the seeds on the cross - but think I may when I retire and have more time to keep track of things - guess I will leave it to Burpee and PC for the time being - haha.

    Bookmark     April 19, 2015 at 11:43AM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

Yeah, smithmal,
Lets keep each other posted later on, your own thread.

BTW my Kumato seedling has true leaves and growing nicely. It should be ready for plant out around mid May. That is the latest and smallest seedling that I have

Seysonn

    Bookmark     April 13, 2015 at 10:45PM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

Update:
My kumato seedling has its first 2 true leave. Right now it is growing slowly. Maybe it is spending more energy on growing roots. So it should be a long while before I can plant it out.

Sey

    Bookmark     April 19, 2015 at 1:46AM
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bragu_DSM 5

really, on multiple forums?

    Bookmark     April 18, 2015 at 6:10PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<A question though, why would a mega bloom place anymore stress on the plant than if the blossoms did not fuse and 2 or 3 tomatoes were forming from the separate blossoms?>

Normal growth vs. abnormal growth. My arthritic knees working in the garden vs. your healthy ones ones working in the garden. Big difference. :)

In this case the central stem would have kept growing, providing circulation of water and nutrients. Now it can't.

All you have to do to get your zone location added like the rest of us is to go to your profile page here - just click on your name - and add it in the slot provided. From then on it is automatic.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 18, 2015 at 12:50PM
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jenniedhs_7b_nc

Linda, I do fuss over the tomatoes! :-) I got my user name changed. I think I was doing it wrong before! Thanks for the infor Dave.

Jennie

    Bookmark     April 18, 2015 at 12:55PM
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jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)

The early ones in the big high tunnel are Polbig, BHN 1021, Cherokee Purple, BHN 871 and BHN876, FL 91 and Big Beef. The picture with the coffee can in it are Big Beef.

Blooms will be opening up this weekend I bet. We will have tomatoes before anyone at the market and after everyone at the market. As for most, it is our #1 crop.

Jay

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 5:47PM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

Alright JR. Have a home run !
Most of your varieties are not familiar to me. Maybe they are available for the big guys. But I am growing Big Beef, (op + F1, one of each) for the first time. I have heard so much positive about it that I had to have it.

Have a great season !

Sey

1 Like    Bookmark     April 18, 2015 at 10:48AM Thanked by jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)
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eagles_barn

To Labradors: I now live in the country and have armadillos who can make a small hole to a 5" diameter 7" deep. We have a horse that can step in the hole and break a leg. Armadillos are weapon bait. They have moved as far east and north as NC from AZ and NM.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 2:48PM
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eagles_barn

To Labradors: Are you urban or rural? What quadrant of the U.S. do you live? Describe the hole? Armadillos most often dig a small golf ball sized hole that is somewhat cone shaped like their head. Sometimes they can dig something 8 to 10 inches in diameter at an angle going down, typically around cover like bushes, but not always. I purchased a system called "Dakota Alert" which has a receiver in the house and a transmitter outside. They also sell a hand held receiver. They can be set to zones one through four. They can transmit a quarter mile through trees, bushes and other plants. I have four of them spread out. When the armadillos wake me up I can handle them. They are also great security systems.

    Bookmark     April 18, 2015 at 8:17AM
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Peter (6b SE NY)

You burned them with too much fertilzer if you ask me. A tablespoon per gallon is outdoor strength. Looks like fertilizer burn in the pic to me also. I am growing in Miracle Gro mix and haven't needed to fertilize at all.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 6:00PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree. Leaf tip burn is classic symptom of excess nitrogen. Need to read the label. Leaf roll/curl is also a symptom of excess nitrogen and of inconsistent soil moisture levels.
Dave

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 6:04PM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

I think the soil temperature is also a major factor.
I keep checking it. It is about 52F now. But I have covered the raised beds with black plastic since early Feb. I just cut a (+ sign) shape and plant and keep the plastic til August .
I have only noticed that growth is slow but they do grow once the roots grab the soil. At the end of season some of my indets get over 8 ft tall..
Cool weather is a fact of life here at PNW. Our nights low will reach 50F+ sometime in early June. May's average night lows is ~ 47F. June's average night low is about 53 F. July and August average low is about 56 - 58F. Only one or two days in summer the highs reach and exceed 86F. That is why our Heat Zone number is "ONE", a lonely number :D.
The above statistics are for north of Seattle (Redmond area).
So here it is not worth it to wait for the warm weather to arrive soon, like in Mid West zone 5,6, 7..
Wish me a hot season. hehe

Sey

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 4:56PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I understand that, Sey. What I'm talking about is the "cold turkey" approach.
<They look a little droopy since they went from 70 degrees to a cool 45 with a little rain last night. >
From 70+ degrees zapped to 45 degrees and rain. There is no need for or benefit to that. That is not hardening off no matter how you define it and those plants in the first picture were damagedas a resultof doing it.

And based on the comment
<I wanted them to go into shock to stunt their growth.>
It was intentional.

Dave


    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 6:01PM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

I also prefer straw especially if it is free:-). But you might get some rye or wheat growing in it . Also with the hay you might get weeds.
My other favorite mulch is pine straw. Down in GA you can get plenty of it at reasonable prices. HD used to sell it trucks load of it. It is the most common landscaping mulch down there. But Up here in PNW all I can get is pine bark mulch or nuggets. @ 2 bucks per cubic foot. Not bad.

Sey

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 3:58PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<Basically I would be worried about any potential pesticides if I don't know where its coming from. Or is that not something typically used in straw?>

Herbicides is more of a concern than pesticides. Longer lasting and more damage. But neither is commonly used with grain crops IME and if the bales are aged more than a year old they'd be of minimal concern.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 4:05PM
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siarl_bychan

I have tried the water spray method. Didn't work. It knocked off quite a few but the next day they were all clustered at the end of the young texas mimosa plant that I have been nurturing from seed. I have not noticed them on my garden veggies yet and that has me worried that they will jump ship and spread to the garden plants. The ants are taking very good care of them. I have seen ladybugs around but they don't seem to be doing anything about the black bean aphids. I have also tried Neem Oil spray and that doesn't seem to phase them. Today dusted them with Diomataceous Earth and it also didn't seem to phase them. It got rid of the nursing ants but not the aphids. I think in order for the D-earth to work they actually need to move around somewhat, which the aphids just seem to sit there and suck away at the stem ends. I've tried picking them off but after about fifteen minutes of that I begin to see double. Well, I will try the garlic and onion and oil mixture next.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 10:41PM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

I would like to add a point here:
DO NOT expect to get rid of aphids in one application/shot. Aphids have more than one stage of life besides being tough.
I will continue with light treatment with jet spray until i don't see them anymore.

Sey

1 Like    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 11:29PM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

rhodes, welcome

If I follow the recommended spacing I cannot plant half as many. I space mine in average 18". Maybe 19". So a 19" by 19" square = 2.5 sqr-ft. per plant. that is 2.5 time space of square ft gardening.
So in a 3ft by 6ft raised bed I plant 7 plants (staggered). But I have to work harder to stake them and prune them. . I might not get huge production but I try many more varieties.

Ok. Back to Brown tomatoes.
I am thinking to add a Black Prince. BBS are selling the seedlings.
So what do you think about it ?

Seysonn.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 9:20AM
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rhoder551 zone 9b-10

I'll try your spacing... I really want to squeeze them all in. I've already let go of the Hillbilly but gave it to someone who I'm sure I can get at least one tomato from so I can save the seeds. Black prince... I grew it once about 3 years ago but not since. It was one that showed up at a lot of the nurseries around here and then became scarce. I can't remember why I didn't save the seeds... I have this slight negative memory about prince, perhaps it bit the dust early on and so I never got to taste the tomatoes.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 11:57AM
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nanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)(9/Sunset 14)

I usually put two seeds per cell, six cells of each variety, and this year I finally accepted that almost all will come up, I will have too many seedlings and then plants, I will be uneccesarily vexed caring for them, and even trying to give them away. So this year after thining I kept two or three of each of six varieties, and plan to keep one or two of each.

These are all last years seeds from TGS.

Peppers are a whole 'nother matter, but last years pepper seeds from TGS all seem to have germinated. None were chinenses though. I was lucky enough to have succesfully overwinter most of last years.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2015 at 4:18PM
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bragu_DSM 5

I usually plant 8 seeds in four cells. I will pick the strongest and keep two. The others go to friends or the FM. I've already got plenty of orders so will have no problem getting rid of them. I'll also have extras for our annual MG FM day.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 15, 2015 at 6:23PM
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robinava(6B)

Thanks Barrie2m. Went to Dr. Snyder's website and he does indeed state that BER could be a lack of calcium. So many different opinions. I believe that I will add some lime after-all, not a lot but just enough to see if in fact it does make a difference. Good info on his website.

    Bookmark     April 14, 2015 at 6:40AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Man I hate beating this dead horse yet again as it has been done in such infinite detail here so often over and over again.

But for the benefit of future readers please note that Dr. Snyder's specialty is greenhouse growing which is a totally different environment with its own set of issues. That isn't saying he is wrong, he isn't. But it doesn't mean it has broad-band applicability either.

And the statement made about lack of calcium is a lack in the fruit, not in the soil. That it is a circulation issue (the fuel pump or fuel injectors to use Barrie's metaphor). So what dictates circulation and fuel injection in a tomato plant?

Lastly, if growing in containers and using a quality soil-less potting mix then it already contains lime. What it often doesn't contain is enough soil volume to keep the plants engine running smoothly and evenly without idling roughly.

So add more lime or egg shells or clam shells or TUMs or aspirin or milk or whatever of the many claimed "cures/preventatives" you wish as long as you understand that if you are fortunate enough to not have any BER it isn't because of what you added.

It is a result of a whole series of conditional coincidences that include, weather, soil pH, controlled and consistent moisture levels, too early fruit set on a young plant, poor or inadequate root development relative to the top growth, the variety grown, the form and amount of the nutrients available or in excess, and (if in containers) that you used a large enough container for the plant's health. Skew any of them and you will have BER in early season fruit.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 14, 2015 at 9:42AM
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mlissca(9b)

I couldn't help myself, I'm sacrificing melons for tomatoes. Final list, 1 ea of: Azoychka, Anna Russian, Black Krim (dry farmed), Blue Streak, Black Plum Paste, Caspian Pink, Cherokee Purple (dry farmed), Cosmonaut Volkov, Granadero, Jaune Flamme, Tiren, San Marzano Tall

    Bookmark     April 13, 2015 at 10:15AM
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Seysonn_ 7b-WA/HZ1

That is a nice selection, mlissca. Those are mostly popular varieties. I am growing couple of them too.

Have a nice season !

Seysonn

    Bookmark     April 13, 2015 at 4:19PM
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barrie2m_(6a, central PA)

As I mentioned earlier they turn from black with green undersides to black with orange undersides. This means that one needs to lift the ripening fruit regularly to check if ready to pick, something I never do with other varieties.

Now there is a flood of these to hit the market in different forms. Last year it was disappointed with Indigo Blue Berries. This year I'm trying Indigo Kumquat.

    Bookmark     April 13, 2015 at 5:31AM
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mewhee
    Bookmark     April 13, 2015 at 11:42AM
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