16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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jeffwul

Your plants look great!

    Bookmark     May 20, 2013 at 9:16AM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

The varieties you have listed are all midseason tomatoes except for Persimmon which is a late season variety. 75 - 80 days from transplant is the usual time frame given for midseason varieties, and 85-90 for late tomatoes. Yours have been in the ground for about one third of that time.

If I am not mistaken, all the varieties you have listed are also indeterminate, which means they will produce tomatoes on a continual basis, not with the bulk of them at one time like determinate tomatoes do.

I see blossoms, so I would not be concerned, you will get tomatoes and they will make more blossoms for even more tomatoes.

So, the key here is to be patient. You will get tomatoes. (Providing everything goes according to plan and you don't have weather or disease issues, etc., etc.)

Betsy

Here is a link that might be useful: Timeline of a Tomato Truss

This post was edited by bets on Mon, May 20, 13 at 12:40

    Bookmark     May 20, 2013 at 12:37PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Find out exactly which one was sprayed and if not the landlord then neighbors. It can drift for a mile. Whether or not they will recover depends on exactly what was sprayed. Since it is so early in the season I would replace them.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 20, 2013 at 11:01AM
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sjetski(6b NJ)

Also,

If you are still living in that complex next year, i would get their lawn maintenence schedule ahead of time, and clear your plants out of the area for at least a couple of days after a spray. Tomato plants are sensitive to even small amounts of residue.

Good luck either way.

    Bookmark     May 20, 2013 at 11:18AM
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tdscpa(z5 NWKS)

Ferti-lome potting mix has fertilizer in it. I like it and use it myself. They should not need anything else until you plant them outside.

You are south of me and should be able to plant them now, unless you have severe storms in your near-term forecast. I have not put mine out yet only because I had too much cleaning up work to do on last year's garden, and it was freezing two weeks ago.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 9:55PM
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LynnMarie_(5 SW Kansas)

We finally had a nice thunderstorm last night. It has been a long time coming! I don't have a rain gauge, but I bet we got at least half an inch. Generally the rain goes around us, so I'm pretty happy this morning.

It was my mom's birthday this weekend so I didn't get the tomatoes planted. I cooked lunch, baked cake and froze ice cream instead. I'll be raking out bermuda grass roots this evening after work- just a few feet left (I spent two hours on it Saturday). Then the tomatoes are going in.

I will look at walmart for fertilizer this week.

Lynn

    Bookmark     May 20, 2013 at 7:10AM
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dave120

I guess you are right in that aspect.

Should I transplant the tomatoes or should I just wait to plant them in the garden?

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 7:33PM
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tammyinwv(z6/WV)

I would plant them out as soon as your zone permits. mine take off once in the ground.
Tammy

    Bookmark     May 20, 2013 at 6:49AM
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spicymeatball

Ok, thanks for the input. No chance it's fertilizer burn or thrips/some kind of pest? I scratched some fertilizer into the soil on this one for some reason even though this soil probably doesn't need it.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 9:30PM
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ncrealestateguy

Sunburn or burn from your copper sulfate spray probably. It will be fine.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 10:25PM
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sue_ct(z6 CT)

The trickiest things for me starting seeds are regulating temperature and watering. I have my seedlings under lights on a countertop in my craft room but there is a south facing window there too. I left the shades open a couple of days when temps were only 60's-70's and bunch got sun burned! So leaving them in a closed greenhouse type atmosphere I am sure could also do that. Plus, with the temperature in the greenhouse going up so much during the day, it may not be possible to keep them watered enough without over watering unless you are able to water them at least twice a day. Depending on how small the containers are that you are using and how large the plants are, they might get dried out before the day is over, even if they are adequately watered in the morning. Trying to water them more in that situation can cause root rot, which then makes it even harder for them to take up water. I have only been doing it a few years but there are a lot people here with tons of experience. I would suggest taking a picture of your setup with the plants in it and posting it here so they can evaluate all of that. A simple inexpensive thermometer placed inside on a sunny "cool" day when you will be home will tell you a lot. I got a couple at Home Depot or Lowes for about $2-3.00 that I use when I want to track how hot/cold it is getting in any room and even the garage when I am storing plants or perishables there.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 8:19PM
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sjetski(6b NJ)

cyanapanasati: If you planted outside it was probably too early in mid-state NY zone 5. The temperature fluctuations, combined with cold rainy nights, will cause odd and hard to diagnose problems.

Here in northern NJ, zone 6, it's long been said that you plant tomatoes after May 15th to avoid the temperature and weather fluctuations. If this "conventional wisdom" is even partly true for northern NJ, then those in NY state need to be a bit more careful imho.

Oftentimes your plants will grow faster, healthier, and produce fruit sooner, if they are planted out just a little later...it all depends on the weather.

Just my 2c

This post was edited by sjetski on Sun, May 19, 13 at 22:09

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 9:54PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Because someone - in this case several people - disagrees with your position you have to resort to insults and name calling?

Ever heard the phrase "That's the pot calling the kettle black".

Miracle Grow Garden Soil

How to Use

For planting individual plants. Dig a hole twice as wide as the container/rootball. Blend garden soil with native soil in a 50:50 ratio. For amending beds, apply a 3 inch layer and work into the top 6 inches of the soil. Plant seeds or live plants following specific package or plant tag instructions. Water thoroughly after planting then daily until plants are well established.

When to Apply

Apply when planting flowers, vegetables and herbs outdoors (not in containers), or when preparing soil in outdoor gardens and landscape beds.

How often to apply

Amend in-ground gardens annually mixing 50/50 with existing soil.

Where to Use

Use for in-ground gardens.

Where Not to Use

Not for use in pots or containers.

University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences - Gardening in Containers: Soil

Univ, of Illinois Extension - Using Soil and Soil-less Mixes for Containers

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Miracle grow Garden Soil

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 7:06PM
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pasco(7)

âÂÂNo man knows less than the man who knows it allâÂÂ

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 9:39PM
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lolauren(7a)

Agree - Not necessary.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 8:14PM
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ColoradoSteph(5)

Thanks so much for the input! I guess I won't worry!

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 8:47PM
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spacetogrow(4 MN)

I was having major problems last year; most of my seeds wouldn't sprout, even though of several varieties. Then I read on some gardening forum that people were quite unhappy with MG seed starter. It was the first time I'd used it.

When I switched to a different brand of seed starter, my success rate went back up to what I would have expected. It was good that I had the time and the extra seeds to try again.

The MG seed starter had quickly settled to half it's volume; I'm guessing it ended up being too dense for the tender sprouts to push up through it.

    Bookmark     May 18, 2013 at 9:34PM
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sue_ct(z6 CT)

I used MG seed starting mix and had very good germination, I would guess 80-90%, but I did add a temperature regulator to my mat this year and I think it helped. I had used Jiffy in the past and never had any real problems with that either.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 8:24PM
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Jimtc

I have a question mabe you can help me with. When days to harvest are calculated for tomatos, the time is calculated from the time of transplant not the time of seeding. Why is that?

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 9:14AM
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Phildeez(9b)

Jim, it is probably because that is what people who buy transplants find the most useful.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 3:29PM
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sjetski(6b NJ)

Birds will sometimes take a few pecks and can make clean shaped holes, i know they do it with peppers. The dusky sap beetle can make a clean shaped hole, but smaller than the one you described. There's a good chance that i'm wrong, in your case, so take my guesses with a grain of salt.

Also: many here would want to see a pic before hazarding a guess.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 12:58PM
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Julie717

Another possibility is tomato fruitworms. I control those with a BT liquid spray applied once a week, it is an organic pesticide that only kills caterpillars.

My first year growing tomatoes, caterpillars ate all the tomatoes that I got (it was a bad harvest anyway due to extreme heat) so I've used that ever since.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 2:06PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sun Gold and Super Sweet 100 are humongous plants - easily 4' wide and 10-12 feet tall. Put them in the bed. Lemon Boy and Golden Boy don't get nearly as big and will do ok in containers assuming the containers are at least 10 gallons..

Dave

    Bookmark     May 18, 2013 at 6:40PM
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ladydub

Thank you! I would have thought the opposite, so I'm glad I asked.

The smart pots are 15 gallon. Can i just use a standard tomato cage with them?

Going out now to find some pine bark or Fafard 52 if I can get it!

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 12:19PM
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ncrealestateguy

Look like pot plants to me too. All they have to do is smell them to determine what they are.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 8:04AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Yep, it's pot. Funny that NYC Police might be duped. NY is so strict on that stuff, they probably hardly ever see it growing, especially in Brooklyn. Now CA or CO might be a different story. Cops probably grow it out there.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 11:54AM
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fireduck(10a)

really a simple process I think...fewer branches = stronger growth on the ones you have. True with all plants. When thinning...do not leave "stumps" protruding out. They can die back, rot, and disease. Make your cuts flush to the "mother" branch.

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 9:37AM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

duckie asked,

"what are macterial diseases ?"

Simple, a typo.

Betsy

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 11:40AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Interveinal chlorosis is the technical term for that. It's a sign of a nutrient imbalance. Sometimes it happens when plants are watered frequently and nutrients are washed out of the soil. But there can be other causes. Since these are indoor plants, I would try a shot of fertilizer and backing off on the waterings a little bit.

    Bookmark     May 18, 2013 at 11:06AM
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dickiefickle(5B Dousman,Wi.)

I have lightly fertilized these a couple times

    Bookmark     May 19, 2013 at 1:10AM
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