16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
If you have a leggy plant, I certainly would trench them. One thing I have noticed about tomato plants grown too closely together so that the stem is rather bare, is that they tend to be a bit brittle, so use care when trenching so you don't break the stem. However, if you do break it and it is still attached, go ahead and bury it.
If my tomatoes aren't too leggy, I just dig the hole deeper with my post hole digger, err, have my husband dig it deeper. Actually, he and my son are so good at making me nice round deep holes that I frequently have to put some dirt back in the bottom so I can have some leaves above ground.
Betsy
I have never personally tried the trench method but there are experts on this board (and Dave is one) who swear by it. It makes sense too. For great tomato plants into the summer, root development is key. More roots = better plants.
Like Dave said, roots will develop all along the buried stem. I tried to plant mine extra deep this year to get the benefits of the extra rooting.
wertach - there are numerous micro-climates in the LA area.
Sunset Magazine lists 7 different ones. Mike in Huntington Beach (Sunset zone 24) is very different than mine in Glendora (Sunset zone 21) which is about 25 miles north
of him.
While the USDA lumps us all together, you can't really go by their map here in LA.
Looking good Mike and I hope it means that you got decent germination with the seeds I sent you as thanks for your red ribbed one you sent me, which is being grown in NC for seed production for all the many ways that I do share seeds with others. ( smile)
Carolyn
You mentioned that you know that tomatoes root to the side.
Did you realize they can send roots over three feet to all sides?
Here's a link to a fascinating article I got from Carolyn
years ago that talks about extensive studies of tomatoes.
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato root development
Look at your weather forcast. If you are not going to be in the 30's for about the next 7 days then you can probably plant out without much fear of a frost. As noted, tomatoes do best in warm temps at night (60), but they can survive 40's at night just fine. As long as the temps don't freeze they can survive mid to high 30's too, though they may not like it. Here In the arid west, our night temps don't get up to 60's until July and August. All may and most of June our temps are below 60. But tomatoes grow great in May and June here. So go ahead and get them in the ground.
Look at your weather forcast. If you are not going to be in the 30's for about the next 7 days then you can probably plant out without much fear of a frost. As noted, tomatoes do best in warm temps at night (60), but they can survive 40's at night just fine. As long as the temps don't freeze they can survive mid to high 30's too, though they may not like it. Here In the arid west, our night temps don't get up to 60's until July and August. All may and most of June our temps are below 60. But tomatoes grow great in May and June here. So go ahead and get them in the ground.
The variety of Roma that I have been growing, are determinate, and max out at the size of a large bush. I'd estimate their peak size at around 3-4ft tall, with a max diameter of 24-30" across.
Last year I nearly got two full crops off the plants. Only reason the late crop didn't ripen come October, was the placement of my plants. So this year I moved my 8 Romas to a section of the yard that will still receive 8+ hours of sun in the Fall (full South-facing...). Fingers crossed we receive two FULL harvests of tomatoes off these 8 plants.
Opposite corners of the raised bed should be perfect.. I have my plants spaced about 3-4ft apart...
I don't think it really matters too much what tomato you grow just "how" you grow it.
If you have the room and don't mind the extra hassle grow what ever you like.
If you prefer smaller plants, try Bush tomatoes like a "Better Bush".
I am trying "Dwarfs" currently and they seem to be doing well, will know for sure in about 3-4 weeks.
In fact they could be the ideal container tomato, plants that get no larger than 4 foot, strong bushy plants, can still get large tomatoes and there are many varieties.
Most important is no less than 15 gallon pots, growing medium is debatable, just don't use regular soil, make sure the potting mix drains very well and the pots drain very well.
Fertilize every 10-14 days, water usually every day, on hot days from 95+ water twice a day.
So IMO right now the ideal set up for container tomatoes is 15 gallon Smart Pots which should drain well as the whole pot drains, a good well draining potting mix.
Stick a standard tomato cage in it, grow what ever Dwarf plant that floats your boat.
Here are my 3 Dwarfs this morning.
Yes, I was hesitant to post a link, having heard Carolyn's comments on that topic before. I found the cite missingtheobvious notes via Drudge, and for everyone's sake I certainly hope it is sensationalism. But I have to say, I put nothing past big government. Life would not be fun if we couldn't save and exchange seeds for interesting varieties of plants :)
The European "White List" severely restricted the varieties of seeds offered by commercial seed houses in Europe, due to the cost of registering varieties legal for sale. As I understand it, the list was supposed to be a way to combat fraudulent misrepresentation of seeds sold across country borders.
The Thompson and Morgan catalogue was intriguing before it came out. A lot of their offerings disappeared when the law was passed. It would be a shame if even more restrictive laws were passed.
I think veggie container gardening in the Central Valley is a challenge in the summer, too. You can grow some nice winter greens in containers here without too much difficulty.
That said, I potted up 3 peppers in a large container (with marigolds) today. I will place it among a cluster of pots with (tough) flowering plants to shade the pot with the peppers in it. Don't think I'll be experimenting with containers for tomatoes soon, though.
I am also in the Central Valley (Modesto). I have a gardening page dedicated to container gardening on FB. Feel free to check it out.
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Vegetables in Containers
Sorry but I just can't imagine how it could work for tomatoes. When you use water to prevent freezing injury, and as long as you keep the ice that forms wet, it will hold right at 32 degrees even when the air temperature is up to 10 degrees colder.
Works on some crops who can tolerate that temp but not lower ones. Tomatoes aren't one of them. 32 degree ice isn't going to save tomato foliage from damage.
JMO
Dave
My indeterminate is throwing out what looks to be many "main stems." How to prune? I've taken off all suckers ( as you can see one attempt removed the branch tip unfortunately). I'm using a trellis system this year but haven't yet tied up the main stem. should I tie up 3 or 4 ? This is my first year with the trellis! Thanks
It's difficult to tell what's going on there, dobieone, what with the mulch and the photo being upside-down.
But regardless, if this is a determinate, it shouldn't be pruned at all. Since I almost never grow determinates and cannot explain their growth pattern well, I will let someone else explain why.
Only indeterminates should be pruned (and only if there is a serious lack of space).
I agree with Dave. With 2ft and less spacing, plus short season, pruning is necessary.
But in general I prun lower part, pinching off sucher and leaves. I belive in having room underneath yo get air movement and preven some of the deseases and rotting.
Then you have to have good staking system. and tying up the the branches. I do like FLORIDA WEAVE type. that I learned here at GW few years ago.
So I am for pruning.
I use the Florida Weave method of support and I never prune.
That being said, I think even with heavy pruning, you are going to find that two feet between ROWS will be too close, unless you aren't planning on walking between the rows. Personally, I have my rows 4 feet apart and even then it is sometimes difficult to get down a row.
Betsy
This post was edited by bets on Tue, May 7, 13 at 13:26
Husky Cherry Red isn't from the Dwarf Tomato Project but is an early tree-type. Large-ish cherry, tough skin. 65 days according to somebody; mine may have been earlier than that. It's a very narrow plant, but do use a support (the lightweight, tall "pepper cages" I used were perfect). I grew mine in 3.5 gallon containers.