16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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sharonrossy(Montreal 5B)

Dave, thanks for the information. I'm relieved about the hardening off, because I felt it was too soon. Don't think I'll repot. And some of my seedlings are in Jiffy pots which I dislike immensely. I agree with what you said about them. I always remove them completely when I plant because I don't like the idea of my plant contained in anything. I also feel the plants are more at risk of breaking because the jiffy pots become so fragile over time. I prefer the plastic pots.
My plants are getting lots of light and they are in a cool space. They are starting to take off in the last few days.

    Bookmark     April 29, 2013 at 6:51PM
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rt_peasant(5 CO)

So when it is getting close to planting time they need to adapt to that environment. Gradually they go out into it, learn to live in their new house. Now if you take them back to the old house for any length of time after they have adapted to the new one, they have to re-adapt all over again and again.

Make sense?

It does. I've often wondered if plants spending time outdoors get (for lack of a better word) "tanned", such that they don't photosynthesize as well when they come back inside. If that's true, then it would make sense that it would take some time for plants to get used to the indoors again.

    Bookmark     April 29, 2013 at 10:52PM
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n1111z(6B)

What is up with this Wichita weather? My tomatoes have outgrown their pots and we are looking at a hard freeze Wednesday and Thursday night. arrrrgh

    Bookmark     April 29, 2013 at 11:15AM
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jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)

Nice looking support system. Years ago, when we lived in a different town, we had a small garden like that. We ate pretty well from such a small space.

This weather is crazy, but we do have moisture. That is something that I couldn't say we had last year.

Jay

    Bookmark     April 29, 2013 at 2:37PM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

Here is some information, including photos, on cutworms, their damage, and some suggestions on control.

I hope that helps.

Betsy

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutworm Information

    Bookmark     April 28, 2013 at 1:30PM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

Cutworms are moth larvae -- true caterpillars -- so technically insects. As true caterpillars, they can be killed by BT kurstaki (though they do not die immediately, and can cause more damage before dying).

    Bookmark     April 28, 2013 at 3:25PM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

I would really like to caution you not to use a systemic pesticide on vegetables or fruits. They are not labeled for use on edibles. I assume these are outside and that you mean they were planted out three weeks ago, not that the seeds were planted then. If they are not outside, get them out ASAP. Whiteflies are much worse inside because there are no beneficials to keep them under control. I've gotten rid of them by using Neem Oil. Spinosad is another safe, organic insecticide that might work. Either will work faster than a systemic.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2013 at 1:21PM
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daniel_nyc(7a)

Spinosad has outstanding reviews in Amazon.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2013 at 2:05PM
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daniel_nyc(7a)

good luck!

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 5:12PM
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zucchini(5a ONT)

Thanks Daniel...right now we had such a fantastic day..I can say it was hot in the sun! so I am always hopeful for a good season. Last year was good, the most tomatoes ever..and I only grow heirlooms.. cheers Martha Zucchini

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 6:35PM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

Daniel, both Early Blight and Late Blight can happen at any time (though of course the disease organisms must be present). And Southern Blight can happen outside the South.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 12:49PM
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daniel_nyc(7a)

thank you for the info,missingtheobvious.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 5:10PM
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mandolls(4)

I always start my plants on my screened in porch (roof is screen also) - it seems to be a perfect way to get them used to the elements. it offers some protection from the wind and the sun is filtered. 3-4 hours the first day has never been a problem.

So yes - they should be a big help.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 2:14PM
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Moorlord

Thanks guys! I layerd two sunside on a covered porch (roof only) they got about 3 hours of filterd sun and then some shade, they still look good. I also considered the wind and they got a nice breeze the whole time. I can really tell wich ones were closer to the fan. So far so good

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 4:46PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Ia addition to the hydroponics forum there are numerous threads on acidifying water, and bicarbonates, in the Fruits forum. This is just one example:

Here is a link that might be useful: acidifying water

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 1:39PM
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pasco(7)

Add your nutrients then adjust ph to where you want it.

When i add any nutes to my soil grows i always adjust my ph to between 6.4 - 6.8 this is the range my plants do the best.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 4:37PM
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nevadagirl

.Thanks so much for posting. The only problem i have with breaking it apart is the roots are grown together, so tightly it might kill the plant trying to take apart . On the container it said to put whole burlap in the ground an cut little twigs away an plant deep this could make roots stronger ????? Im just confused with all the stems coming from out of the roots any help on this would be appericated thanks

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 2:22AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Yes, planting it deep will make the roots stronger because additional roots will grow out of the main stems. I know it's difficult to be agressive with a plant not knowing how it will react. "If" you want to break it up you can dig it up, remove the burlap, and cut, or pull the plants and roots apart, and replant them. They will be fine. Lots of people root tomato suckers by just sticking a bare branch in water. If you are not comfortable just leave them, and they will grow however they will grow, but it looks like they will be a little crowded. It's totally up to you. IMO I would definitely get rid of the burlap.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 1:51PM
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sautesmom

Well I LAUGHED, anyway.
:)

Carla in Sac

    Bookmark     April 25, 2013 at 9:12PM
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zucchini(5a ONT)

Yes, was going to reply to 'triffids...having watched the body snatchers last night..all those lively gardens in sci-fi....and here we are...the first time I saw a tomato horn worm I was sure it came from another planet...cheers to the season..; - > Martha Zucchini

    Bookmark     April 27, 2013 at 9:17AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Wow wish I could help but all this is far beyond the standard grow-in-ground tomatoes that most here do. Have you checked out the Hydroponics forum here for help? You might also want to check out the Growing Under Lights forum too for input on your lighting question.

Question 1 - basically white and yellow gives you green growth. Red and blue are needed for blooming if there is no sun exposure. But the Growing Under Light forum can give you better details on that than I can as my indoor plants are greenhouse sun grown.

Question 2 - a fan for breeze, flicking/vibrating the blooms with your fingers

I can answer question 3 in part. From fruit set to harvest is approximately 6 weeks +/- a week depending on variety and growing conditions. But from seed to fruit set has far too many variables to predict with any accuracy.

Question 6 - no it won't get thicker. Thin stems (called 'leggy') are from too little light primarily.

Sorry I can't be of more help but your situation is quite unusual.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 24, 2013 at 4:36PM
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timmy1(6a ri)

You can't grow tomatoes hydroponic on 20-20-20. You need a 2 or 3 part hydroponic fertilizer program.

And 1600-2000 ppm seems high for small plants. 1200 is better 1.60 mhos + source water.

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 10:05PM
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gardennewbie420

Hahaha. Ok ?! I left none on purpose. But transplant done. Looks beautiful! Used a spoon. No rough abnormal jerking. Just right down the side , and i gradually lifted. Making sure to notice shifting soil. As to know where the root ball was. I'll post pics later. Have a feeling they will be ok-with some TLC. I make nice Dixie cup containers. I use that because I care for seedlings indoors at night. Easy to arrange so far. And dollar store item. Go figure.

    Bookmark     April 25, 2013 at 9:05PM
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Moorlord

two sprouts one cup? *stifle*

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 8:24PM
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StrawberryGirl76(UT 6b)

Thanks Dave, I think I'll do that. I won't even really lose any, since they came three to a pack, and I was just going to share extras with the neighbors. Now I'll just consider some of them backup. Thanks for the good advice!

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 6:22PM
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monet_g

Dave gives good advice.
Figure out what works for you and have fun!

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 7:31PM
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suncitylinda

Dave, who posts as DigDirt is a long time member and expert tomato grower. As he said, this is enviornmental.

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 10:57AM
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moldy_oldy(North Texas)

Very good to know. I will feel better when this goes away. Looks like the cold is behind us so perhaps so will be this problem. Thanks to Dave!

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 6:23PM
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northernmn(3/4)

Thank you both. I'll go back to watering with warmed up snow melt (65 to 70 degrees) that has no fertilizer in it. The potting mix has a very low content of fertilizer.

I'm hoping to switch to rain water by next week !

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 2:28PM
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carolyn137(z4/5 NY)

Yes, the most common cause of purple leaves and stems is lack of P, but fertilizing the plants directly via the roots isn't going to help. What you need to do is to spray the foliage, which avoids root uptake, which is the problem.

You can use dilute blue stuff, like MG or Peters and the like or use a few drops of liquid concentrated fish or seaweed emulsion in some water.

I don't do anything b'c I know that the plants will grow out of it, but for many, just the sight of those purple plants is cause for concern.

Spraying the foliage works, and it will green up the plants, but only b/c you're bypassing root uptake, which is the major problem and it's worse if the temps are too low and temps alone can also do it.

Carolyn

    Bookmark     April 26, 2013 at 4:41PM
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