16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes


Nice looking support system. Years ago, when we lived in a different town, we had a small garden like that. We ate pretty well from such a small space.
This weather is crazy, but we do have moisture. That is something that I couldn't say we had last year.
Jay

Here is some information, including photos, on cutworms, their damage, and some suggestions on control.
I hope that helps.
Betsy
Here is a link that might be useful: Cutworm Information

I would really like to caution you not to use a systemic pesticide on vegetables or fruits. They are not labeled for use on edibles. I assume these are outside and that you mean they were planted out three weeks ago, not that the seeds were planted then. If they are not outside, get them out ASAP. Whiteflies are much worse inside because there are no beneficials to keep them under control. I've gotten rid of them by using Neem Oil. Spinosad is another safe, organic insecticide that might work. Either will work faster than a systemic.


I always start my plants on my screened in porch (roof is screen also) - it seems to be a perfect way to get them used to the elements. it offers some protection from the wind and the sun is filtered. 3-4 hours the first day has never been a problem.
So yes - they should be a big help.

Thanks guys! I layerd two sunside on a covered porch (roof only) they got about 3 hours of filterd sun and then some shade, they still look good. I also considered the wind and they got a nice breeze the whole time. I can really tell wich ones were closer to the fan. So far so good

Ia addition to the hydroponics forum there are numerous threads on acidifying water, and bicarbonates, in the Fruits forum. This is just one example:
Here is a link that might be useful: acidifying water

.Thanks so much for posting. The only problem i have with breaking it apart is the roots are grown together, so tightly it might kill the plant trying to take apart . On the container it said to put whole burlap in the ground an cut little twigs away an plant deep this could make roots stronger ????? Im just confused with all the stems coming from out of the roots any help on this would be appericated thanks

Yes, planting it deep will make the roots stronger because additional roots will grow out of the main stems. I know it's difficult to be agressive with a plant not knowing how it will react. "If" you want to break it up you can dig it up, remove the burlap, and cut, or pull the plants and roots apart, and replant them. They will be fine. Lots of people root tomato suckers by just sticking a bare branch in water. If you are not comfortable just leave them, and they will grow however they will grow, but it looks like they will be a little crowded. It's totally up to you. IMO I would definitely get rid of the burlap.

Yes, was going to reply to 'triffids...having watched the body snatchers last night..all those lively gardens in sci-fi....and here we are...the first time I saw a tomato horn worm I was sure it came from another planet...cheers to the season..; - > Martha Zucchini

Wow wish I could help but all this is far beyond the standard grow-in-ground tomatoes that most here do. Have you checked out the Hydroponics forum here for help? You might also want to check out the Growing Under Lights forum too for input on your lighting question.
Question 1 - basically white and yellow gives you green growth. Red and blue are needed for blooming if there is no sun exposure. But the Growing Under Light forum can give you better details on that than I can as my indoor plants are greenhouse sun grown.
Question 2 - a fan for breeze, flicking/vibrating the blooms with your fingers
I can answer question 3 in part. From fruit set to harvest is approximately 6 weeks +/- a week depending on variety and growing conditions. But from seed to fruit set has far too many variables to predict with any accuracy.
Question 6 - no it won't get thicker. Thin stems (called 'leggy') are from too little light primarily.
Sorry I can't be of more help but your situation is quite unusual.
Dave

Hahaha. Ok ?! I left none on purpose. But transplant done. Looks beautiful! Used a spoon. No rough abnormal jerking. Just right down the side , and i gradually lifted. Making sure to notice shifting soil. As to know where the root ball was. I'll post pics later. Have a feeling they will be ok-with some TLC. I make nice Dixie cup containers. I use that because I care for seedlings indoors at night. Easy to arrange so far. And dollar store item. Go figure.




Yes, the most common cause of purple leaves and stems is lack of P, but fertilizing the plants directly via the roots isn't going to help. What you need to do is to spray the foliage, which avoids root uptake, which is the problem.
You can use dilute blue stuff, like MG or Peters and the like or use a few drops of liquid concentrated fish or seaweed emulsion in some water.
I don't do anything b'c I know that the plants will grow out of it, but for many, just the sight of those purple plants is cause for concern.
Spraying the foliage works, and it will green up the plants, but only b/c you're bypassing root uptake, which is the major problem and it's worse if the temps are too low and temps alone can also do it.
Carolyn



Dave, thanks for the information. I'm relieved about the hardening off, because I felt it was too soon. Don't think I'll repot. And some of my seedlings are in Jiffy pots which I dislike immensely. I agree with what you said about them. I always remove them completely when I plant because I don't like the idea of my plant contained in anything. I also feel the plants are more at risk of breaking because the jiffy pots become so fragile over time. I prefer the plastic pots.
My plants are getting lots of light and they are in a cool space. They are starting to take off in the last few days.
So when it is getting close to planting time they need to adapt to that environment. Gradually they go out into it, learn to live in their new house. Now if you take them back to the old house for any length of time after they have adapted to the new one, they have to re-adapt all over again and again.
Make sense?
It does. I've often wondered if plants spending time outdoors get (for lack of a better word) "tanned", such that they don't photosynthesize as well when they come back inside. If that's true, then it would make sense that it would take some time for plants to get used to the indoors again.