16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Commercial plants are sometimes over-fertilized to give them that dark green appearance. The uninformed public thinks they look healthier which isn't necessarily true.
Other issues - light exposure for example - can lead to color differences as commercial growers grow plants very differently than the average home grower. Different varieties can also differ in leaf color.
Is it a problem? No, not if your home grown plants are sufficiently fed and appear healthy.
Dave
Tatiana's TOMATObase says indet:
http://tatianastomatobase.com/wiki/Caro_Rich
Rutgers says det:
http://njaes.rutgers.edu/tomato-varieties/variety.asp?Caro+Rich
Since this topic rose to the top again, I want to add a photo of my Texas Tomato Cages in 25-gallon containers. They worked great. This photo was taken July 1, 2012, about 6 weeks after the tomatoes were planted out. By the end of the summer, the plants were huge, but the cages held up well. We had a storm with straight line winds over 50 mph, and a couple tipped but did not fall over. The plants were not damaged.
Here's mine. Made out of PVC pipe and fittings. Cost is
about the same as TTC. I've been using this setup for
about 20 years now with the same PVC.
Follow the link to see how it's done.
Here is a link that might be useful: Tom's Tomato cage page
Your mistake lies not with pruning the leaves (though it's unnecessary) but with the spacing and number of plants in that bed. There is definitely not enough room for all of that. Especially with indeterminate tomatoes. You'll see what we all mean in a couple of months.
Caroline
I've kept my tomato plants completely trimmed, 18 inches from the soil.
Keeps area open and free from hiding pests.
I also trim my plant growth back, not allowing branches to touch each other of grow very long.
This has worked for me for many years, I will continue to do so.
Not planted in a SFG garden
Like MTO, I am not a container expert by any means, but I have grown some plants in containers, so here is some additoinal information:
Container plants will need watering more often than tomatoes in the ground, probably daily or more often in times of high temperatures. Dig down with your finger about 3-4", is the growing medium wet, dry, or just right? If it is wet, don't water, if dry then water. If it is just right, check again the next day. If the medium is very dry, normal watering may have no effect on it, the water will just run off the top and down the sides of the container then out the drainage hole(s). In that case a slower delivery method is needed to allow the growing medium to absorb the water. That is the principle behind those glass watering globes you see advertised. You can slow the delivery down by taking a large plastic container (a gallon milk jug, or even a 2-liter bottle, you'd just have to repeat more with a smaller container) and make a very small hole in the bottom so that it just drips and place it in your planter and fill it up. Repeat as needed until the growing medium is thoroughly moistened throughout the container.
Mulching the top of your container with compost, straw, hay, rotted leaves, grass clippings, even shredded paper or sheets of paper or cardboard helps maintain a consistent moisture level.
Plants that are grown in any kind of container will need feeding more often than plants that are grown in the ground because each time they are watered, the water run off carries away vital nutrients. Many container growers will use a dilute solution of a liquid fertilizer every week or two depending on the condition of the plant.
You can get more information on growing in containers over in the container forum.
Betsy
Here is a link that might be useful: Container Gardening Forum
Yaeli, how about containers on a patio or balcony, or on the concrete next to an outside door (if your own apartment has one)? That way the plants would have something better than asphalt to grow in.
If you have a really sunny window (south or west are usually brightest), you could try growing indoors also.
Hi chlobell,
Answers to your questions:
"1. Should I cover them and turn the heat mat back on?" No, they don't need either.
"2. Our outdoor temperatures are warm now (70-80 degrees). Should I bring them outside for a few hours instead of letting them sit all day under the grow light?" Your temperatures are warm enough that you could start that now. Begin with a couple of hours in the shade then gradually increase the time, moving them into filtered sunlight and finally full sun.
"3. Given that it is warm enough to plant outside now, how big do they need to be before I put them in the ground." Most of the time we plant out when the tomatoes are at least 6-8" tall, but that is for tomatoes that are started indoors before it is safe to plant them out. I'd wait until they get at least two sets of true leaves.
Now I have a couple of questions for you:
What medium do you have them in now? Is it a soilless seed starting medium? It looks pretty wet to me, but I could be wrong. Are there drainage holes in the bottom of that container? If the growing medium is too wet, that could account for the slow growth, particularly if it is also a "heavy" mix.
We usually wait until we have true leaves before potting up, but that medium may not be the best for growing seedlings, so you might consider transplanting them into a standard growing medium (potting mix, not soil). If you do that, then wait 4-5 days before putting them outside.
I hope that helps.
Betsy
Here is a link that might be useful: Hardening Off and Physiological Changes
Thank you for your response! I had just watered them when I took that picture. Should I let them dry out completely before I water them again? Yes there are drainage holes in that container. The growing medium is Hydrofarm Jump Start Biodegradable pellets. I can see another set of leaves coming in on at least one of the plants so I'll take that as a good sign. Thanks for the help!
I'm no expert.. But I would let the plants do it's thing... If the plants are to early, they wouldn't produce blossoms.. The plants know what they are doing better than us.. It's up to you... If you'll be sleeping on the couch because of a ripe tomato, hell remove it! Doesn't matter that much..
Orange county's growing a lot more than tomatoes, huh?
Joe
It's optional but I subscribe to removing early blooms/fruit simply because the odds are high that the first one like that on a small, young, plant will likely have BER anyway. I prefer to reduce plant stress as much as possible.
The goal at this stage is root development, not top growth, blooms, or fruit.
Dave
Yes, taste is very subjective, and you will no doubt get a myriad of answers.
Having said that, on your list, I have tasted Sungold, Yellow Pear, Rutgers, Marglobe, Big Rainbow, Brandywine, Gold Cherry, and Delicious. Of these, the only ones I find worth mentioning in terms of "best tasting" are Brandywine, Rutgers, and Sungold.
I haven't tasted many on your list but I have tasted:
Sungold Hybrid
Yellow Pear
Rutgers
Brandywine Pink
I think yellow pear is very boring and bland. Sungold is good in my opinion, but my household and neighbors would tell you there are divine! Do you have kids? If so, plant the sungold for sure...they love them! Rutgers is a flavorful canner type and it is a pretty reliable tomato, lots of people I know grow them every year, and Pink Brandywine is very, very good. I grow it every year.
Hope this helps :)
Lindsey
PS - I have two sets (4 bulbs) of grow lights. 2 "blue" and 2 "yellow" to hit both sides of the spectrum above and below green. I keep them on 18 hours a day. The tomatoes are fine, but the peppers are getting a little leggy. It's still not enough light... It is very difficult to simulate the sun in light intensity. IMO.
Here is the relevant info translated from the breeder Takii Seed:
Nutrient rich takii hybrid tomatoes
peaches taro gold î momotaro PVP YE004
make easy orange-yellow!
Delivery of standard seed: 18 tablets 1 bag 1 bag 1000 grains
a vivid orange-yellow fruit colour features, perfect for colorful cuisine. Than the lycopene contained in traditional pink species-rich lycopene CIS-that is easily absorbed into the body.
Meek vigor and overall excellent result so easy to make. Average fruit weight 210-220 g disease resistance ï¼ÂTm-2a.F1.F2.V.LS.N
rootstock 2A ï¼ÂTm--MILF stage: early
Takii mating momotaro gold tomatoes
I am not completely sure but this was a sales page and "rootstock" might be referring to availability of grafted seedlings. Grafted plants are common in Asia.
nothing about "determinate" only "meek vigor"
which could be interpreted relevant to rootstock/scion performance (controlled growth of the scion match is key - you want them producing fruit not lots of foliage and vine)
Thanks for your help!