16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

I'll find it and read it digdirt. Thanks to you and ed. Should I pinch the daged leaves off to help the plants along?

No, IMO just leave the leaves...whatever green is left on them will help the plants.

I grew two Husky Cherry Reds last year in 4-gallon pots -- Bonnie seedlings from a big-box store, so I assume there'd be some near you.

They grew to only about 4' tall (12" wide), so you'd have to bend a bit to pick the early fruit, but it wouldn't grow over your head. (Mine were on the front porch, pretending to be matching potted evergreens, so I could access them from the front walk without bending quite as much.)

Though tree-types, they did need a bit of support; I started them with single stakes but apparently wasn't tying the stems to the stakes often enough: the top of one plant broke off in a minor storm, and the other plant's main stem fell over and didn't want to straighten, so I left it where it was. I added narrow ring cages, and they were enough to prevent other support issues for the rest of the season.

It was a Late Blight year, but I was able to cut off the bad bits and keep the plant going for a couple of months.

Above-average taste for a cherry.

Husky Cherry Red does great in the home depot buckers (most of my garden is in those).
I grew Better Bush in the buckets last year as well and they did okay.
Mr. Stripey did not.

Even smaller, Sweet N Neat produced bountiful, very sweet, large red cherry tomatoes in 2 gallon buckets.

Here is one of my Mr. Stripeys, he is just in front of the vase.

I grew one plant last year and got one tomato. It was a good tomato.
Despite the really poor yields I just picked up a plant for this year.

Strange, that. I just clicked on the link and got the strip.

Whatever!

Here's another way.

Thanks for posting that, qaguy. I had the same problem as bets.

Just to be clear, neither I nor Hatch claim that Costoluto was grown by Jefferson, just that it's grown at Monticello now. Having never tasted or even seen it I couldn't offer an opinion on its taste.

&&&&&&

Not a problem at all since I noted above that not all that's grown at Monticello now are heirlooms and should have added that I don't think that Jefferson grew it either,

I'd have to go back in thoe Jefferson garden books to check, but no way amI going to do that. LOL

Jefferson brought back many varieties from France and grew them, that I remember.

And yes, I've interacted with Peter Hatch before, sharing info about varieties of old.

Carolyn

Two more to look up, Kosovo and Tsar Kolokol. I'm not ordering any more until fall but are both on my short (hah!) list.

$$$$$$

You've made my day by mentioning two varieties that I was the first to SSE list and also spread them around for trial at the several seed places where I do send seeds for trial.

You must like pink heart varieties to chose those two, I'm a fan of hearts as well and have grown lots of different varieties.

Links for both of them from Tania's wonderful tomato data base, with basic traits,comments from others, and click on seed availablity to find which seed vendors list them. Tania herself sells seeds for over 600 varieties, and I almost forgot, pictures as well.

http://t.tatianastomatobase.com/wiki/Kosovo

http://t.tatianastomatobase.com/wiki/Tsar-Kolokol

Carolyn

Several greenhouse suppliers offer hose-end misting nozzles, fine spray, sprinkle spray, etc.

Or you can just go to Walmart and buy a 5 in 1 hose nozzle (like the 8:1 in the pic) for $5-6

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Hose nozzles

I have numerous hose end nozzles on hand but it is difficult to get the gentle watering effect you need from them; at higher water line pressure you'll knock tender plants over; cut water pressure down and they usually just dribble a stream of water.

The Dramm sprinkle can I mentioned has a 17" neck (spout). If you can find any sprinkling can with a very long neck you'll mellow the water output yet maintain a uniform shower. An alternative is to turn trays an water more from the side of the plants than top.

Once your plants become more sturdy stemmed by hardening-off you can practically hit them with anything.

Another consideration is to followup a watering event with hand lifting of bent plants. This usually works best if you wait an hour after watering.

Filtered light will help the transition. I use shade cloth over my seedlings once I take them outside. I can't carry them in and out like I used to do, so once they go outside, they stay there.

Betsy

I usually move mine into an area that is shaded outside that gets about 2 hours sunlight and a slight breeze, the breeze will make their stems stronger over time. After about 2 weeks, I increase the sun exposure to 4 hours. Once they are about 8 inches tall, ready for planting.

Last year my favorites were Black from Tula and Green Zebra. This year trying all new ones.

I have all my toms wintersown, but so far no sprouts yet. Last year it worked great so I've got my fingers crossed that they'll peep any day now. here's what i've got started, and what i'll grow if they all work out (some will be in my home garden, some in my son's school garden, which is why the over selection of cherries):

Absinthe
Blondkopfchen
Cherokee Green Grape
Cherokee Purple
Choc Cherry
Gold Medal
Golden Dwarf Champion
Love Apple
Mexico Midget
Super Sweet 100

Picked up plants today from Lauel's. They look sturdy and healthy. All new varieties for me:
Legend
Sun Gold
Lime Green Salad
Sprite
Big Beef
Cherokee Purple
Sweet Baby Girl

I tried to find disease resistant plants along with some smaller ones for containers and sweet. Hope they will deliver.

I've found that the most significant growth acheived from the companion planting happens within the first 6-8 weeks of growing. After that the basil plants are so big that they just keep producing with continuous harvesting of the leaves. The experiment pictured above was a case where I started the tomatoes and basil right next to each other (4 inches away when seeding) in the same starter container. Then when I transplanted to the final spot in my garden, I moved the basil about a foot to a foot and a half away from the stem of the tomato plants. The tomatoes grow up a trellis and the basil sits happily right near the outside of the tomatoes.

Did you plant a control basil away from the tomatoes?

I have planted basil in the same spot for a couple of years, with and without tomatoes nearby, and have seen very little difference. This year, with tomatoes, it's even a little smaller than usual, but I think that's because it's been so cold and wet for us. Hard to be sure with such a small sample size, though.

However, if we're going by anecdotes, then I think that planting basil near tomatoes stunts the tomatoes. Because mine are healthy but certainly not jungle-like and I'm peeved!

Do any of you save Seeds at all from some of these bigger varieties ?

Definitely do..

Dave

Willing to share some seeds from this years maters?

Geeze...now there calling for 21* tonight w/wind. Nice.

Jay, I'm having a bit of picture trouble but let me try again:

This the simple way to connect a woodstove that I use in all 3 greenhouses. Framed up section with metal sheet inside & out; then just cut hole for flue pipe and support pipe on outside.

My husband went out to the desert today and looked for camel dung but only found a tiny bit so he didn't pick it up... but then again he wasn't out where too many camels are so hopefully in the next few weeks we can gather some :)

speediebean, I will look them up, thank you :)

I have a full Bokashi Bin. It can be picked up in Sharjah. Just bury the contents in any soil- even sand -and in a few weeks you'll have healthy organic compost for your garden. Or just plant a tree or other plants right on top.

nialialea - not twine, but that green stretchy garden tape.

I reuse those too every year. I have a big bag of them
just sitting there waiting.

nialialea - I knew I had a picture of a painted one somewhere. Just took a while to find it.

Yes they were out too long or weren't protected nearly enough. What you see is wind burn and sun scorch.

As missing said, no need to remove the leaves. They will either recover or shrivel and fall off on their own - assuming they don't get over-exposed again. :)

Dave

Thank you for the responses. That makes me feel better.