16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Pasco....:-)
grown, I'm not sure what you are asking. Scientists and plant breeders have been trying to come up with the 'perfect' tomato for many generations. We consumers want it all....great flavor, disease resistance, good storage ability, and many other qualities.
I used to work for a large commercial greenhouse tomato growing company that shipped 65 million pounds of tomatoes annually to supermarkets.
There is definitely something to be said about variety/type selection - and the impact it will have on taste.
However the impact of fertilizer and soil conditions will impact taste equally if not more.
Most people don't realize that BRIX levels (the amount of sugar/carbohydrates in a vegetable) are only one portion of the taste. As a commercial grower we maintained brix levels about 2 X higher than normal field grown tomatoes, but they still never tasted as good as home garden grown tomatoes with even lower brix levels.
This is because of the bitter after taste of chemical fertilizers and high inorganic salts.
Fish emulsion while "organic" if used in too high of rates will also create a poor taste (different).
Little is understood in regards to the symbiotic relationship of vegetable taste and soil microbes. Although since flavonoids (form of anti oxidant) are greatly increased when plants are grown in soil containing abundant soil microbes - and since flavonoids are what gives everything its "taste/flavor" - I think it can be argued that healthy natural soil that natural soil microbes (provided by compost) will grow much better tasting fruit and vegetables.
Don't worry about being too late. I started my seeds mid-March this year even though it's considered a little late for some people. But last year when it was my first year growing veggies, I got a little too excited with my spring veggie success mid-April that I decided to start tomatoes and peppers and I started them last week of April/first week of May, I got loads of chile verde peppers and lots of morning sun cherry tomatoes (which took forever to mature on vine) but still... it was possible. So don't worry!
Have you checked over on the Tomato Seed Exchange forum here? That is where posts such as this should go so there may very well be someone there offering them.
Otherwise Google pulls up several seed vendors for them.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Seed Exchange
I've had cut worm problem for 2-3 years. I've used plastic 'ring' cut out from water bottle or toilet paper roll but somehow the worm still found its way into the ring inside the soil. I think the ring/roll is too wide for the plant. I've also used crashed egg shell which was somewhat hit or missed.
The most economical and effective method I found are those thick plastic straws from the asian supermarket - those used at the bubble milk tea store. I think it was like $1.99 a pack. Cut it open to wrap around the base of the stem and nothing can ever get in since it's so tight with the stem. When the plant is as thick as the straw, it should be strong enough and you can just unwrap the straw.
I am now the proud parent of 7 newly sprouted Estler's Mortgage Lifter seedlings! Looking forward to planting them out in the garden in a couple weeks. Hopefully I can save a lot of seeds this year if all goes well. I gave my word to Mr. fusion_power I'd pay it forward and I'm intent on doing so! I agree with cbadcali, that's most definitely what it's all about.
OK Arizona explains it as SVB are considered an east of the Rockies pest only. That doesn't mean you don't have any that wander in, just that they aren't regarded as a significant pest in AZ and each state IMP focuses on primary pest problems for their state.
Below I linked the U of AZ IPM website - all sorts of info on what are considered your dominant pests. And they offer a Monthly Calendar of Pest Activity you can explore. Click on each month for a list of pests associated with that month. May seems to be your grub hatch so SVB pupae would likely hatch about the same time. June brings out your "All summer bugs alert". etc.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: U of AZ IPM website
Dave, thanks for the suggestion!
I was not big on Sukura when I read the plant description but for whatever reason my partner in crime thought the name is cool and just had to get it.
I have a few 4-5 gallon pots and two earth pots. However, I plan to use the earth pots for the cucumber, and not sure if I can still fit a small tomatoe (maybe the Roma since it's determinate type) in each of the earth pots - any thoughts? Light with the containers will not be a problem since I can move them to the brightest part of the garden.
Well 4-5 gallons is usually considered too small for any tomato plant except maybe for one of the dwarfs. I know some have some success with 5 gallon buckets when they turn them into SWCs or use drip systems and a determinate variety but it is much extra work and in your zone even more. The potential for real success with tomato plants in small containers is so unlikely it really isn't worth the work IMO.
In most of the discussions here about container growing you'll find most recommend 8-10 gallon as a minimum for best results with even bigger preferred. It all depends on how you define success, what you are willing to accept for results given the work involved.
Don't know what you mean by earth pots? But I sure can't see a tomato plant in with a cuke unless they are even bigger than 10 gallons or you are using one of the small bush cukes.
Using proper sized containers for tomatoes and not over-crowding plants can increase your production 10 fold.
Dave
Ok, I'm not sure if this is legal. But if it isn't, don't do it, or at least don't tell anyone I suggested it.
I get tons of volunteers a year, and they all seem to fruit pretty well. The tomatoes are strangely shaped, but taste ok.
Anyway, I was thinking, maybe it would be fun to transplant these to public spaces?!? Like, on the side of the road, or at the edge of a park. Then, it would be free tomatoes for everyone. Of course, I'm probably not 100% thinking this through....
It could be nothing more than a bit of injury damage to the tip of the cotyledon. Given the true leaf development they will soon begin to shrivel and die anyway.
Or in soil grown plants it can indicate nitrogen burn or salt damage. In hydro growing, I can't say as it is a whole different world. But you could probably get some more accurate info over on the Hydroponics forum here.
Dave
My borage variety gets huge needing to be cut back just to keep it in bounds so planting closer than 2 feet would mean it would be inside the tomato plant.
Mine is not planted as a companion plant, just in the same area when I rotate the tomatoes from year to year. I haven't noted any special benefits.
Giant green plants with little to no fruit is the classic sign of way too much nitrogen. There are many balanced organic fertilizers available. The Espoma products are often recommended in fertilizer discussions here.
Dave
I grow Heirloom tomatoes, so the next year's volunteers are always terrific. Last year I had so many the garden became in impenetrable jungle. I must be hard hearted and remove more this year, but it seems a shame to remove such lovely babies.
Many thanks for the great responses!!!
I may end up lucky in terms of taste as even our grocery store tomatoes are relatively local (you can drive across the entire country from furthest tip to tip in under 6 hours) and taste garden-fresh in comparison to the veggies I've bought at the store when in the U.S. (totally tasteless horrible things).
My soil is slowly (way too slowly!!) improving via the compost I've been growing and adding and I've space in the 'improved' area for 4 tomato plants (ground that now bakes into something like a crumbly brick rather than solid cement in the sun). Perhaps I should try the volunteers in the cement-mimicking soil and see what happens?!