16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Sowed 6 different varieties on March 22 in 18 cells. As of March 30 sixteen of eighteen had germinated. As of today, one cell's seedling is starting to show its first true leaf (I think it's a grape if I labelled the cells correctly -- oh, well, surprise me!)
Here are a bunch of "media suggestion" discussions from over on the Hydroponics forum. Hope some of them will help.
http://www.gardenweb.com/gardenweb/query/cheap-media/topic=hydro
Please check the search digdirt linked to and you will get many ideas on what sort of hydroponic system is best for you if you go soilless.
Hydroponic systems are generally more expensive to set up[ and operate than growing in containers for a small quantity of plants, especially when the plant is not a highly productive variety. Cost-effective is a very subjective term and the most pleasurable growing experience for your money may not be the same for you as someone else.
It is too late to start tomatoes this season for central FL no matter what system you use, though I suppose you could buy transplants if you hurry up and get them planted. The next chance to do your own crop is for the fall season. Good luck.
PC
Thanks for the replies.
I have been satisfied with other purchases I've made through Pinetree in the past. And I'm aware that those who grow for supplying seed to retailers are limited. I do not know whether Pinetree is known to buy from reliable sources. I figured tomato enthusiasts are more likely to know.
Yes, purity of the strain is somewhat important to me, especially since I'm starting some plants as a gift for a friend who IS a purist about tomatoes and because I read that Cuostralee can make some very large fruits. My friend often enters a local tomato contest that is judged by weight.
You are also seeing some interveinal chlorosis and it is in the older leaves. That is usually indicative of magnesium deficiency. When plants are deficient in Mg. It's possible your soft water and the salts it may contain have skewed the soil pH. That's a chronic problem I have to deal with here.
Switch to watering with un-softened water and if it continues I'd try watering them one time with a weak solution of epsom salts dissolved in water. Most soils don't require MG supplements but soil-less mixes can be deficient.
Dave
Thanks for the responses.
Forgottenone , Yes the problem started when still in the cups and continued after plant out. The roots looked good and whatever it was affected first the leaf and then continued down the stem and when it hit the main branch it killed everything above it. Not really sure what it was, but the affected stems turned whitish. It progressed very quickly though. I did prune off the affected parts but sometime it was tough to catch in time especially when small.
Dave, I don't think root binding was a problem for me but if I do see an overabundance of roots I tear them apart and tear off roots at the bottom when necessary. I really try to avoid that however. Most of the time I have to be careful not to have the rootball fall apart after removal from the pot or cup. I suspected that the cups were OK to use as many do use them. Just wanted to make sure so thanks for the info!
You're showing tomatoes. If you suspect bound up roots, just plant the thing deeper. It'll grow more roots wherever a stem is in contact with dirt.
I too plant like the first wave is doomed to die because it's too early, holding some back for "next week" or more. The mass of cup-bound roots easily shows that it's too easy to leave plants in the cups too long.
why not mg seed starting mix?
Not for transplanting into (potting up). It's for seed starting only. Too fine textured and no nutrients for growing on.
Jennie - look into 5-1-1 for your peppers rather than Orchid Mix. Better mix and much less expensive. Actually that is about all Orchid Mix is - a form of 5-1-1 in an expensive bag.
Dave
The only thing that I thing makes a difference when it comes to starting/germinating seeds, if the structure. In a finer soil seeds will have a better contact AND the soil won't dry up quickly. I have been using the same potting mix for sowing as I do for re potting. . That is the reason , I think, commercial starter mix is made of : PEAT MOSS, and VERMICULITE . and maybe some fine perlite. Vermiculite absorbs a lot of water and increase in volume. I dont like that at all. I use DE. This one absorbs water but wont fall apart or break down.
Seysonn
Hi PC, just wanted to say that the tomato plants have skyrocketed since your advice. The three Brandywine's are doing great and growing very nicely. (The beefsteak is another story but she's given me problems since she was a seedling.) But all the new leaves on the Brandywine's are looking great and the stems are very thick now. Thanks so much!
I agree with all wat said about the amount of watering recommendations and the kind of medium should be used in different situations I also would recommend to use a magnifier to check out tomato leaves for possible red mites spiders or other insects infestation may also contribute to bumpy leaves! SZ
Not familiar with your soil or know the percentage of ingredients but would be concerned about moisture and water needs. Share pic of bag if you can. Also, clay pots are heavier probably making it trickier to see what's going on at the bottom. When using plastic, i could easily tell if water was needed by just picking them up. Was the soil soggy or show signs of wet feet when transplanted? Any root discoloration? Won't hurt to let them dry up a little....
I have used these in the past....and they can be useful. However, the key to understand (unless I am all wet) is: these are best suited to clip onto vertically hung string/wire. Vertical growing main branches are clipped onto the string as it grows higher. It can get dicey if you try to clip onto horizontal support. The angle is 90 degrees off in that case. The string "clips" into the "hinge" area of the clip when you lock the clip closed.
Container planting is a big challenge especially if the plants are huge indets.
In addition to pot size, you have to support them properly.
Watering and fertilizing are also demanding. They will need much frequent watering and fertilizing, ESPECIALLY if the container is on the smaller side.
I, myself, am going to grow a few dwarfs in containers this year. Most of them will be ok in 4 to 6 gallon pots.
Seysonn
Seysonn, growing in containers takes some work up front the first year. But for me is so much less work in the long run than in the ground. And no weeding, YEAH! And I have so much more control of the plants environment. I have the worst clay here in NC so growing in the ground is not an option.
Relatively new (2 seasons only) but there are lots of reviews of them available online from sources other than Burpee and most are mixed. The fruit are clearly small, in the 3-4 oz. range, they aren't completely seed-free if that is important to you, when grown from seed the seeds have a very low germination rate apparently, and the flavor is rated at 5-6 on a scale of 10 (so average). If being relatively seedless (seeds are easy to scoop out from most any variety) then they may meet your needs.
Dave
I've grown Sweet Seedless for a few years now and I'm impressed with it on a number of levels. They come early and hang in there all season long. Flavor is reasonably good. Fruits are mostly in the 8 oz. Range although some are larger or smaller. I have a few dozen plants started again this year and although I've not separated them for sales in the past I'm thinking that this year I might promote this variety by offering it separately.