16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Thanks for the replies.
I have been satisfied with other purchases I've made through Pinetree in the past. And I'm aware that those who grow for supplying seed to retailers are limited. I do not know whether Pinetree is known to buy from reliable sources. I figured tomato enthusiasts are more likely to know.
Yes, purity of the strain is somewhat important to me, especially since I'm starting some plants as a gift for a friend who IS a purist about tomatoes and because I read that Cuostralee can make some very large fruits. My friend often enters a local tomato contest that is judged by weight.
You are also seeing some interveinal chlorosis and it is in the older leaves. That is usually indicative of magnesium deficiency. When plants are deficient in Mg. It's possible your soft water and the salts it may contain have skewed the soil pH. That's a chronic problem I have to deal with here.
Switch to watering with un-softened water and if it continues I'd try watering them one time with a weak solution of epsom salts dissolved in water. Most soils don't require MG supplements but soil-less mixes can be deficient.
Dave
Thanks for the responses.
Forgottenone , Yes the problem started when still in the cups and continued after plant out. The roots looked good and whatever it was affected first the leaf and then continued down the stem and when it hit the main branch it killed everything above it. Not really sure what it was, but the affected stems turned whitish. It progressed very quickly though. I did prune off the affected parts but sometime it was tough to catch in time especially when small.
Dave, I don't think root binding was a problem for me but if I do see an overabundance of roots I tear them apart and tear off roots at the bottom when necessary. I really try to avoid that however. Most of the time I have to be careful not to have the rootball fall apart after removal from the pot or cup. I suspected that the cups were OK to use as many do use them. Just wanted to make sure so thanks for the info!
You're showing tomatoes. If you suspect bound up roots, just plant the thing deeper. It'll grow more roots wherever a stem is in contact with dirt.
I too plant like the first wave is doomed to die because it's too early, holding some back for "next week" or more. The mass of cup-bound roots easily shows that it's too easy to leave plants in the cups too long.
why not mg seed starting mix?
Not for transplanting into (potting up). It's for seed starting only. Too fine textured and no nutrients for growing on.
Jennie - look into 5-1-1 for your peppers rather than Orchid Mix. Better mix and much less expensive. Actually that is about all Orchid Mix is - a form of 5-1-1 in an expensive bag.
Dave
The only thing that I thing makes a difference when it comes to starting/germinating seeds, if the structure. In a finer soil seeds will have a better contact AND the soil won't dry up quickly. I have been using the same potting mix for sowing as I do for re potting. . That is the reason , I think, commercial starter mix is made of : PEAT MOSS, and VERMICULITE . and maybe some fine perlite. Vermiculite absorbs a lot of water and increase in volume. I dont like that at all. I use DE. This one absorbs water but wont fall apart or break down.
Seysonn
Hi PC, just wanted to say that the tomato plants have skyrocketed since your advice. The three Brandywine's are doing great and growing very nicely. (The beefsteak is another story but she's given me problems since she was a seedling.) But all the new leaves on the Brandywine's are looking great and the stems are very thick now. Thanks so much!
I agree with all wat said about the amount of watering recommendations and the kind of medium should be used in different situations I also would recommend to use a magnifier to check out tomato leaves for possible red mites spiders or other insects infestation may also contribute to bumpy leaves! SZ
Not familiar with your soil or know the percentage of ingredients but would be concerned about moisture and water needs. Share pic of bag if you can. Also, clay pots are heavier probably making it trickier to see what's going on at the bottom. When using plastic, i could easily tell if water was needed by just picking them up. Was the soil soggy or show signs of wet feet when transplanted? Any root discoloration? Won't hurt to let them dry up a little....
I have used these in the past....and they can be useful. However, the key to understand (unless I am all wet) is: these are best suited to clip onto vertically hung string/wire. Vertical growing main branches are clipped onto the string as it grows higher. It can get dicey if you try to clip onto horizontal support. The angle is 90 degrees off in that case. The string "clips" into the "hinge" area of the clip when you lock the clip closed.
Container planting is a big challenge especially if the plants are huge indets.
In addition to pot size, you have to support them properly.
Watering and fertilizing are also demanding. They will need much frequent watering and fertilizing, ESPECIALLY if the container is on the smaller side.
I, myself, am going to grow a few dwarfs in containers this year. Most of them will be ok in 4 to 6 gallon pots.
Seysonn
Seysonn, growing in containers takes some work up front the first year. But for me is so much less work in the long run than in the ground. And no weeding, YEAH! And I have so much more control of the plants environment. I have the worst clay here in NC so growing in the ground is not an option.
I just got an email from Armstrong nurseries, they carry the Big Beef.
I don't know if there are Armstrong Nurseries in the PNW, though , well I checked and they appear to only be in Calif.
Here's a nursery in Washington that sells Big Beef Tomato plants.
http://www.takerootfarm.com/about.asp
Gary
Plastic mulch (black or red/pink) is mostly effective early in the season that plants are small and don't shade much. But ones they get bigger the solar altitude is higher and plants shade most of the bed and very little direct sun will hit the plastic. UNLESS you have wide spacing and trim a lot of foliage.
Another thing is , how can really measure 5 to 10% increase in production. Say, normally a plants produces 30 tomatoes. 5 to 10% will be like be 1.5 to 3 tomatoes ??? Big deal !!
Seysonn
If you are concerned about space/money for potting, you can always try to find an empty lot somewhere and just plant it. If it dies or gets ripped up so be it. I live downtown and have limited space too. A friend gave me 20 strawberry plants a few years ago but I only had room for about 10. I put 10 of them in an empty lot on my daily walk route. I really just threw them out there on some loose dirt. Well to this day, there is a pretty prolific strawberry patch there that everyone uses from time to time. I have thrown rotten tomatoes out there to and have seen the plants blossom and produce. it's pretty funny because the neighbors are always like, "How did that get there?".
Here are a bunch of "media suggestion" discussions from over on the Hydroponics forum. Hope some of them will help.
http://www.gardenweb.com/gardenweb/query/cheap-media/topic=hydro
Please check the search digdirt linked to and you will get many ideas on what sort of hydroponic system is best for you if you go soilless.
Hydroponic systems are generally more expensive to set up[ and operate than growing in containers for a small quantity of plants, especially when the plant is not a highly productive variety. Cost-effective is a very subjective term and the most pleasurable growing experience for your money may not be the same for you as someone else.
It is too late to start tomatoes this season for central FL no matter what system you use, though I suppose you could buy transplants if you hurry up and get them planted. The next chance to do your own crop is for the fall season. Good luck.
PC