16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

he said if you have under 20" of rainfall per year you would use Gypsum , and if you have over 20" of rainfall per year,, you use lime. We have over 40" per yr. i dont remember the exact number. From what I understand the amount of rainfall would effect your ph, however, he stated not to worry what the ph was just go by the amount of rainfall.

Jeez . Talk about taking a basic law of hydrology and soil science and then extrapolating to the extreme.

Excessive rainfall [30+ inches] does remove basic [alkaline] cations over a long time period. That period of time all depends on the nature of the soil, sandy being the fastest, clay the slowest. However we are talking about over multiple decades, not annually.

And even then that approach is assuming that none of those alkaline cations are replaced by natural decomposition of the soil or even by garden watering - which they are - or recognizing that most garden plants grow best in acidic soil with a pH range of 5.5 - 6.0.

And to say to ignore the soil pH? The pH is the most vital element of the soil as it is what determines nutrient uptake by the plants - what is available to them or not.

So exactly what did you soil test say? Interpreting the WV Soil Test report

According to the soil taxonomy report on WV there are 5 different classes of soil in the state all with widely varying native soil pH so depending on where you live, lime may or may not be of benefit to you and if needed then it would have been reported as such in your soil test.

I commend your desire to understand all this but you know there are numerous reputable, even university and scientific, sources for all this information available on the web. Some guy on youTube is not one of them.

Explore the WVU Extension service website and if you can't find the soil sciences info there then go to the one of the university websites that have a Soil Sciences division like Wisconsin, Florida, Minnesota, etc.

Choose your sources of information with care.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: OK State Ext. - Cause and Effect of Soil Acidity

Thanks for those links Dave, I will take some time and read them more thoroughly.

In our area, I know most farmers use lime in the gardens. I havent yet.My soil Ph in the amended garden was 5.8. It was recommneded to apply lime and N. In the non amended area of the yard it was 4.9, and lime N and P was recommended.
Tammy

Here is a link that might be useful: My test results

If you know the genetic sequence of one tomato variety; then it can help you or any seed company and also the plant breeders, producing different varieties. These varieties like the heirloom tomatoes are different from the generic grocery tomato.

Try here:
http://tgrc.ucdavis.edu/Data/Acc/Genes.aspx

they get lots of indirect light, and a bit of afternoon direct sun

So these are actual plants, not young seedlings, right?Given that tomatoes need 6-8 hours of direct sun a day I'd say that is your problem right there. Too little sun = too little photosynthesis = too little chlorophyll.

Dave

Focus on SALT in every form. Too much fertilizer, soil with salt buildup or water (especially if you have a softening unit) are all potential sources. Many things could contribute, even a well meaning spray or any mineral taken up by the plants in higher amounts. When you mention leaves on the tallest plants are these leaves affected high or low on the plants? Typically higher leaves (newer growth) damaged indicate toxocity of a more mobile nutrient.
Light might be a factor but is usually expressed as an overall lighter green color.

I start seedlings under cool fluorescents, which I keep ideally no more than 1-2" above the leaves. Since the tubes are cool, leaves which touch them do not burn, so it's fine that sometimes the leaves are up there with the tubes.

I have no experience with other lighting, so I can't help you there.

If there's too much distance between the lighting and the leaves, the seedlings will stretch to be closer to the light. That's not a good thing. The only problem I've had with that has been when the seeds have sprouted and the stems are already stretched before I get them under the lights.

I don't know why your tomato seedlings would be growing sideways ... unless perhaps the root systems aren't strong. Since tomatoes will root anywhere on the stem, I'd think it's not a problem -- as long as the stem begins growing upright at some point.

As far as legginess goes: what is the distance between the base of the stem (i.e. where it comes out of the ground) and the dicotyledons (the first two leaves that come out of the seed)?

It sounds like you didn't plant them deep enough or maybe they need to be up-potted and transplanted deeper so the roots will get stronger. If they are in tiny cells now, transplant them to pots a little bigger and deeper.
One to two inches lighting above the plant tops and mine are only on 16 hrs a day.
The tomatoes are on the right. A tip: brush your hand over the tops of your plants once or twice a day to strengthen their stems.

Tammy, personally I will never prune opalka to a single stem. It will seriously hamper the production. Generally for paste tomatoes I will just use a big cage (24 inch diameter) and let them grow without much intervention. I trim off diseased leaves but that is about it.

Opalk has a decent productivity for me. San Marzano Redorta is almost twice as productive in my zone 7 garden and it is in general a much more robust plant imho. Taste wise they are both pretty good but San Marzano Redorta can be eaten right out of hand and that tells you how good the taste is.

I grew an Opalka last year and got ok results. The taste is great, but it was not as productive as I would have liked. I grew 30 varieties last year and Opalka was lower on the list in terms of productivity for me. My Speckled Roman also did not do so great last year and that was it for paste varieties for me last season.

Mine are about 13". A 10" wide plank plus a 2"x4" plank on top. 8" might be too shallow. What's under the bed? Native soil?

Since this is the Growing Tomatoes forum your question isn't relevant to this forum.

You'll find much more detailed information on the Soil & Compost forum, the Sq. Foot Gardening forum (they even have a FAQ on the subject of how to build a raised bed), and even the general Vegetable Gardening forum here.

Dave

Early Girl and Rutgers were both pretty much like store bought in appearance for me. I think both taste ok but like many others more.

I would argue that there are many varieties that are resistant to cracking and cat facing.

Man, this used to be a very busy forum. Did someone run everybody off? Are we in a new anti-nightshade trend and I missed it? :)

Anyway, my early plantouts are doing fine and dandy right now. i put out a few more today and may have them all outside pretty soon.

I generally plant out April 1. Any earlier than that and I get
lots of foliage, but no tomatoes for quite a while.

Daytime temps are not as important as nighttime temps.
As a general rule, plants wont set fruit until the nighttime
temps are 55 F or higher.

I finally decided on April 1 around 15 years ago and it works
for me.

I'm in the San Gabriel valley, about 30 miles east of LA.

Dave,
Thanks for the reply... gives me a lot to think about.

Varieties: black crim, beefsteak, fourth of july, early girl, and others.

Determinate or indeterminate: no answer... don't know.

variety fellow was growing: unknown

Plant support: Staked or cone-type metal support

Plant out about middle/late May... after average last frost.

All varieties were transplants.

This year I will build trellises and more sturdy/higher metal cylindrical supports about 5 - 6 feet high.

I will continue to water with a drip system... I would normally water every other day... daily during the heat of the summer. I fertilized with miracle grow weekly.

i think you are on your way with the soil improvements you've made (compost, etc.)

the taller supports also ought to help you out

After looking a long time, I've settled on Early Wonder. It is a compact determinate, so in addition to having good flavor, it "grows small" so I can start it early and it will not outgrow my cold frame before it can be planted outside. I would rather have "good" tomatoes a week or two earlier than wait for "great" tomatoes quite a bit later. Started my E.W. last week.

Actually, my earliest tomatoes are Red Robin, a dwarf cherry. I start these the first of February and they will start producing in early May, still safely nestled in my cold frame in an Earth Box Junior.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Growers Supply

Thanks, Jll0306 -- I've ordered a pkt of Pipo from Tatiana. Anything that says 42 days sounds interesting!
-wc2k8

I have a weekend house that I just started my seeds in. I've been doing this for 5 years now. I leave on Sunday eve and return on Friday eve. I start my seeds in Jiffy peat pellets and line them up in plastic trays with covers. I put about an inch of water in the bottom of the tray, cover them, put them in a very sunny window (gets about 7-8 hours of sun) and leave. I usually start about 50 of these pellets and maybe one or 2 of them will get some rot from too much water and/or dry out, but that happens over the course of a month. If you just need to leave them for a single 5 day period, add some water and cover them (I've even used clear plastic wrap pulled tightly over them). Works like a dream.

here's a pic.

Pretty sure Joyce's Greenhouse near Barboursville will still sell the plants. I saved seed last summer but I had Bear Claw as well and am not sure what I saved but it was approx 20 oz round pink that could have been either one. I am going to take pains this yr to label the top of my 6ft stakes and be sure to put up some EML seed. Sure am glad someone had the seeds available. Mr Estler gave seed to Joyces and they sent plants to numerous greenhouses in the Huntington WVa area. Hope I didnt wait toolong to put the seed up.

Edie,

You were most certainly correct when you said those seeds could not be found anywhere! I have been searching for them for a while as well!