16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Dave,
Thanks for the reply... gives me a lot to think about.

Varieties: black crim, beefsteak, fourth of july, early girl, and others.

Determinate or indeterminate: no answer... don't know.

variety fellow was growing: unknown

Plant support: Staked or cone-type metal support

Plant out about middle/late May... after average last frost.

All varieties were transplants.

This year I will build trellises and more sturdy/higher metal cylindrical supports about 5 - 6 feet high.

I will continue to water with a drip system... I would normally water every other day... daily during the heat of the summer. I fertilized with miracle grow weekly.

i think you are on your way with the soil improvements you've made (compost, etc.)

the taller supports also ought to help you out

After looking a long time, I've settled on Early Wonder. It is a compact determinate, so in addition to having good flavor, it "grows small" so I can start it early and it will not outgrow my cold frame before it can be planted outside. I would rather have "good" tomatoes a week or two earlier than wait for "great" tomatoes quite a bit later. Started my E.W. last week.

Actually, my earliest tomatoes are Red Robin, a dwarf cherry. I start these the first of February and they will start producing in early May, still safely nestled in my cold frame in an Earth Box Junior.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Growers Supply

Thanks, Jll0306 -- I've ordered a pkt of Pipo from Tatiana. Anything that says 42 days sounds interesting!
-wc2k8

I have a weekend house that I just started my seeds in. I've been doing this for 5 years now. I leave on Sunday eve and return on Friday eve. I start my seeds in Jiffy peat pellets and line them up in plastic trays with covers. I put about an inch of water in the bottom of the tray, cover them, put them in a very sunny window (gets about 7-8 hours of sun) and leave. I usually start about 50 of these pellets and maybe one or 2 of them will get some rot from too much water and/or dry out, but that happens over the course of a month. If you just need to leave them for a single 5 day period, add some water and cover them (I've even used clear plastic wrap pulled tightly over them). Works like a dream.

here's a pic.

Pretty sure Joyce's Greenhouse near Barboursville will still sell the plants. I saved seed last summer but I had Bear Claw as well and am not sure what I saved but it was approx 20 oz round pink that could have been either one. I am going to take pains this yr to label the top of my 6ft stakes and be sure to put up some EML seed. Sure am glad someone had the seeds available. Mr Estler gave seed to Joyces and they sent plants to numerous greenhouses in the Huntington WVa area. Hope I didnt wait toolong to put the seed up.

Edie,

You were most certainly correct when you said those seeds could not be found anywhere! I have been searching for them for a while as well!

Based on what I read, I don't think you did anything wrong. The "problems" you had were more likely due to the time of year rather than any fault of your own. Tomatoes are simply not going to grow as well in September because it is not as warm and the sunlight is not as good. Colder nights also have an effect.

There are any number of things that can cause yellowing of leaves late in the year. In addition, some varieties simply are not as productive as others.

Soil mixtures are probably overrated. If you give your tomatoes a bit of fertilizer here and there, they will likely grow fine in plain dirt.

Personally, I think growing in a container is a complete waste of time unless you can't grow in the ground. You will not get as good of growth or as good production.

Tomatoes need a rich and well-drained soil. Fertilizers not too high in nitrogen should be added prior to the planting; because too much nitrogen will produce a large plant, but with fewer tomatoes. If you have grown tomatoes before; then select a spot where they have not been planted for at least last four years.

Thanks everyone! I'll stop worrying and start watering less.

Potting mix that holds too much water is like fighting a losing battle. Peat and perlite wouldn't have much in it for the plant and your kelp fertilizer by your description seems unbalanced.

I think a good potting mix with some extra perlite in it might have the proper pH and a little fertility. I am no expert but I have found that drainage is critical. I think you have a combination of potting mix holding too much water and a lack of nutrients.

You have a control because your plant with worm castings looks better. Do you have any more worm castings? I am thinking you could put them in water and strain it then use the 'castings' tea next time your plant is dry.

I am having a problem with some of my plants and the difference is I ran out of one batch of potting mix and used another on the later plants. I treated them the same but the earliest potting mix drained well and those plants look better.

Glad you waited it out and used the foliar dilute fish spray,

They look great from that first picture.

Did you also try to dry out those plants as well or at least not watering so much and at least trying to keep them warmer?

Carolyn

And they all lived happily ever after. Glad you got them thru it. Good job!

Agree with Ohiofem. Tomato plants aren't flowers. "Pinching" doesn't not apply to them. If you didn't get much fruit last year it had nothing to do with any pinching you did or didn't do.

Production is determined by the growing conditions you provide and the genetics of the specific variety grown.

Dave

sounds to me like original poster has been reading UK gardening message boards since topping plants and suckering plants does not help production. It hurts production if you don't do it correctly you will get no harvest at all.

Two posts on this thread discuss varieties for drying (my post about 1/4 of the way down, and then fusion_power's post (the second post after mine):
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg0101561527833.html?11

Thanks. This is useful information.

The oak stakes are not expensive but what is the shipping cost? I guess if you have them in the garden for the summer then pull them and store in a dry place, they would resist rot.

I use bamboo for stakes.

Here is a link that might be useful: My Tomato Stakes

Thanks NZ,
It has a 12" wide x 16" deep with rebar footing all around the perimeter of the GH then contiguous to the ground. The 4x4 posts are buried16" in the ground also. I used threaded rods from the 4x4 to the exterior studs for spacing and strength. The threaded rods are approximately 18" below the soil line so it does not interfere with tilling etc. These indeterminate tomatoes will grow all the way to the ridge beam if I plant them early enough! Awesome producers too - constant supply - always tomatoes ripening on the levels below as new blossoms are developing several levels up - etc etc!

Yes those tomatoes are making me hungry too.
As to posting here it is open to everyone love your set up as well I am getting some positive feed back finally and loving every minute of it. please keep this up as it is helping me as much as many others who do take the time to read this thread. I'm thinking of two different stlyes of
gardens this year raised beds like the ones in your GH or ground level beds. so will be experimenting with both of those this year to see which will be better for me to use.
and yes I have a few tires and found a dryer drum as well for growing tomatoes and some other hill type plants. will let you know how they do as I begin my planting outside this month.