16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Hi PC, just wanted to say that the tomato plants have skyrocketed since your advice. The three Brandywine's are doing great and growing very nicely. (The beefsteak is another story but she's given me problems since she was a seedling.) But all the new leaves on the Brandywine's are looking great and the stems are very thick now. Thanks so much!
I agree with all wat said about the amount of watering recommendations and the kind of medium should be used in different situations I also would recommend to use a magnifier to check out tomato leaves for possible red mites spiders or other insects infestation may also contribute to bumpy leaves! SZ
Not familiar with your soil or know the percentage of ingredients but would be concerned about moisture and water needs. Share pic of bag if you can. Also, clay pots are heavier probably making it trickier to see what's going on at the bottom. When using plastic, i could easily tell if water was needed by just picking them up. Was the soil soggy or show signs of wet feet when transplanted? Any root discoloration? Won't hurt to let them dry up a little....
I have used these in the past....and they can be useful. However, the key to understand (unless I am all wet) is: these are best suited to clip onto vertically hung string/wire. Vertical growing main branches are clipped onto the string as it grows higher. It can get dicey if you try to clip onto horizontal support. The angle is 90 degrees off in that case. The string "clips" into the "hinge" area of the clip when you lock the clip closed.
Container planting is a big challenge especially if the plants are huge indets.
In addition to pot size, you have to support them properly.
Watering and fertilizing are also demanding. They will need much frequent watering and fertilizing, ESPECIALLY if the container is on the smaller side.
I, myself, am going to grow a few dwarfs in containers this year. Most of them will be ok in 4 to 6 gallon pots.
Seysonn
Seysonn, growing in containers takes some work up front the first year. But for me is so much less work in the long run than in the ground. And no weeding, YEAH! And I have so much more control of the plants environment. I have the worst clay here in NC so growing in the ground is not an option.
I just got an email from Armstrong nurseries, they carry the Big Beef.
I don't know if there are Armstrong Nurseries in the PNW, though , well I checked and they appear to only be in Calif.
Here's a nursery in Washington that sells Big Beef Tomato plants.
http://www.takerootfarm.com/about.asp
Gary
Plastic mulch (black or red/pink) is mostly effective early in the season that plants are small and don't shade much. But ones they get bigger the solar altitude is higher and plants shade most of the bed and very little direct sun will hit the plastic. UNLESS you have wide spacing and trim a lot of foliage.
Another thing is , how can really measure 5 to 10% increase in production. Say, normally a plants produces 30 tomatoes. 5 to 10% will be like be 1.5 to 3 tomatoes ??? Big deal !!
Seysonn
If you are concerned about space/money for potting, you can always try to find an empty lot somewhere and just plant it. If it dies or gets ripped up so be it. I live downtown and have limited space too. A friend gave me 20 strawberry plants a few years ago but I only had room for about 10. I put 10 of them in an empty lot on my daily walk route. I really just threw them out there on some loose dirt. Well to this day, there is a pretty prolific strawberry patch there that everyone uses from time to time. I have thrown rotten tomatoes out there to and have seen the plants blossom and produce. it's pretty funny because the neighbors are always like, "How did that get there?".
Hi Grubby. The three plants won't be cramped, they'll have about 15 gallons each and theoretically unlimited headroom; we just don't need any more than what 3 plants will produce, so I'll be using the rest of my (limited) garden space for other veggies.
"thinner skinned than BFT"
That sounds like something physical that can be gauged. I've noticed CP to have a very delicate skin, more like a berry than most tomatoes.
I agree with Seysonn's summary on physical attributes' priority and though I'm sure those who've grown them over time may develop a taste distinction, if the claimed distinction isn't easily perceptible to most and can't be can't be explained and reproduced all the time, for me it goes in the same file as miracle fertilizers and dubious pedigrees.
The original post seemed to apply to the fruit, but maybe the thread is changing; if we plant seeds as an question, is the foliage really too close to call too, as I don't think there is a genetic reason for that. I like mustgarden's observation about the vine length ... sounds encouraging to those of us who save seeds from the market in a special surprises for good fruits we've had the good luck to purchase.
PC
Hi PC,
Yes I agree . Plant's physical attributes, growth habit might tell more than the fruits. Though BFT's fruit shape is described as "fattish round". I thinks CP fruits are not that round and can be oblate and not quite round.
Tatiana say BFT plant grows about 4 ft. tall which seems to be shorter and less vigorous than Cherokee Purple.
So there it goes : My B FT, CP , Black Cherry, Arbuznyi and JBT are growing under light. So 3 Russians vs 2 Americans. It is going to be a tough competition in dark colored category : call it Black, Brown, Purple, Chocolate Brown, Coffee Brown,..
I choose my tomatoes based on a lot reviews not just from a single person or a seeds seller. The next stage is to try them out. This way I identify the varieties that "I" like and "THEY" do well in "MY" garden. Way to go.
Seysonn
Black From Tula
The fruits look quite round.
Cherokee Purple.
The fruits are not round .
realmanpwns I did. It's the link at the bottom of my original pos
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That is not a serious problem, I think. Just do as Dave told you already.
Seysonn
Sorry Zackey, I'm not reading things well today! It was me who didn't read the original post enough to know he did not want suggestions of cages but instructions on how to build. Do look up Texas tomato cages though. I have had mine I think close to 10 years.
Ok THAT I can relate to. Then the answer isn't in tomato variety but to create an artificial environment that will let you grow tomatoes there in the summer.
I can do it here in January and February because I have greenhouses where i can control the environment. Same goes for Hudson in Wyoming. You need to redirect that stubborn energy and create a place where you can control the environment, keep the temperature and the humidity down while still providing adequate sun or artificial light. So if not a GH then something like an enclosed lanai or sun porch with air conditioning.
But outside in the open air in a Miami summer ain't going to cut it no matter how stubborn you are. You can't force Miami weather to fit the needs of tomato plants or to your experiences when you were gardening in the north. It is just a waste of time, energy, and stubborness.
Dave
why not mg seed starting mix?
Not for transplanting into (potting up). It's for seed starting only. Too fine textured and no nutrients for growing on.
Jennie - look into 5-1-1 for your peppers rather than Orchid Mix. Better mix and much less expensive. Actually that is about all Orchid Mix is - a form of 5-1-1 in an expensive bag.
Dave
The only thing that I thing makes a difference when it comes to starting/germinating seeds, if the structure. In a finer soil seeds will have a better contact AND the soil won't dry up quickly. I have been using the same potting mix for sowing as I do for re potting. . That is the reason , I think, commercial starter mix is made of : PEAT MOSS, and VERMICULITE . and maybe some fine perlite. Vermiculite absorbs a lot of water and increase in volume. I dont like that at all. I use DE. This one absorbs water but wont fall apart or break down.
Seysonn