16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
I just got an email from Armstrong nurseries, they carry the Big Beef.
I don't know if there are Armstrong Nurseries in the PNW, though , well I checked and they appear to only be in Calif.
Here's a nursery in Washington that sells Big Beef Tomato plants.
http://www.takerootfarm.com/about.asp
Gary
Plastic mulch (black or red/pink) is mostly effective early in the season that plants are small and don't shade much. But ones they get bigger the solar altitude is higher and plants shade most of the bed and very little direct sun will hit the plastic. UNLESS you have wide spacing and trim a lot of foliage.
Another thing is , how can really measure 5 to 10% increase in production. Say, normally a plants produces 30 tomatoes. 5 to 10% will be like be 1.5 to 3 tomatoes ??? Big deal !!
Seysonn
If you are concerned about space/money for potting, you can always try to find an empty lot somewhere and just plant it. If it dies or gets ripped up so be it. I live downtown and have limited space too. A friend gave me 20 strawberry plants a few years ago but I only had room for about 10. I put 10 of them in an empty lot on my daily walk route. I really just threw them out there on some loose dirt. Well to this day, there is a pretty prolific strawberry patch there that everyone uses from time to time. I have thrown rotten tomatoes out there to and have seen the plants blossom and produce. it's pretty funny because the neighbors are always like, "How did that get there?".
Hi Grubby. The three plants won't be cramped, they'll have about 15 gallons each and theoretically unlimited headroom; we just don't need any more than what 3 plants will produce, so I'll be using the rest of my (limited) garden space for other veggies.
"thinner skinned than BFT"
That sounds like something physical that can be gauged. I've noticed CP to have a very delicate skin, more like a berry than most tomatoes.
I agree with Seysonn's summary on physical attributes' priority and though I'm sure those who've grown them over time may develop a taste distinction, if the claimed distinction isn't easily perceptible to most and can't be can't be explained and reproduced all the time, for me it goes in the same file as miracle fertilizers and dubious pedigrees.
The original post seemed to apply to the fruit, but maybe the thread is changing; if we plant seeds as an question, is the foliage really too close to call too, as I don't think there is a genetic reason for that. I like mustgarden's observation about the vine length ... sounds encouraging to those of us who save seeds from the market in a special surprises for good fruits we've had the good luck to purchase.
PC
Hi PC,
Yes I agree . Plant's physical attributes, growth habit might tell more than the fruits. Though BFT's fruit shape is described as "fattish round". I thinks CP fruits are not that round and can be oblate and not quite round.
Tatiana say BFT plant grows about 4 ft. tall which seems to be shorter and less vigorous than Cherokee Purple.
So there it goes : My B FT, CP , Black Cherry, Arbuznyi and JBT are growing under light. So 3 Russians vs 2 Americans. It is going to be a tough competition in dark colored category : call it Black, Brown, Purple, Chocolate Brown, Coffee Brown,..
I choose my tomatoes based on a lot reviews not just from a single person or a seeds seller. The next stage is to try them out. This way I identify the varieties that "I" like and "THEY" do well in "MY" garden. Way to go.
Seysonn
Black From Tula
The fruits look quite round.
Cherokee Purple.
The fruits are not round .
realmanpwns I did. It's the link at the bottom of my original pos
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That is not a serious problem, I think. Just do as Dave told you already.
Seysonn
Sorry Zackey, I'm not reading things well today! It was me who didn't read the original post enough to know he did not want suggestions of cages but instructions on how to build. Do look up Texas tomato cages though. I have had mine I think close to 10 years.
Ok THAT I can relate to. Then the answer isn't in tomato variety but to create an artificial environment that will let you grow tomatoes there in the summer.
I can do it here in January and February because I have greenhouses where i can control the environment. Same goes for Hudson in Wyoming. You need to redirect that stubborn energy and create a place where you can control the environment, keep the temperature and the humidity down while still providing adequate sun or artificial light. So if not a GH then something like an enclosed lanai or sun porch with air conditioning.
But outside in the open air in a Miami summer ain't going to cut it no matter how stubborn you are. You can't force Miami weather to fit the needs of tomato plants or to your experiences when you were gardening in the north. It is just a waste of time, energy, and stubborness.
Dave
That makes sense. If soil warming isn't the highest priority, but blocking light to weeds is, black plastic is what you want. If soil warming is the highest priority, then one is better off with clear plastic. Both will help with moisture retention.
Too much watering and probably lack of nitrogen result in yellow foliage. Seedlings need to get thirsty between watering. I water mine about every 5 days or so. And I fertilize at about 1/3 strength wit MG blue water soluble (24-8-- 16). I have never used fish emulsion. So I cannot comment on that.
Seysonn
Here you go:
Brokenbar Dried tomatoes discussion It is the one always linked to whenever this question comes up.
Sounds good. BTW my bulbs are 34W fwiw.
Ed, so T8 bulbs are 34w . I was off by 2w..
I am running 3 units now { 34 x 2 x 3 =204w , x 16 hrs = 3.26 kwhr per day). Cost is less than a cup of coffee at StarBuck's .
Seysonn