16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
i can only find commercial descriptions of both.
Sorry no one has replied to your post. I have no experience with either because, as you have discovered, they are both commercial grower varieties grown for shipping/market. That alone is enough to make most home gardeners shy away from them. Why grow what you can buy in the store? is the philosophy.
If you do try them be sure to report back on the results.
Dave
yeah its true ultrasonic is a commercial variety,i don't know about monte carlo because its indeterminate and sold as a home garden variety by italian seed companies (franchi and bavichi) i've had pretty good luck with some commercial varieties , one hybrid called primetime from harris (no longer available ) two open pollinated commercial (or once commercial) are campbells 1327and basket vee from stokes, both pretty tasty and good producers. i've never tried the original marglobe but i hear its worth growing, have you grown it?
Geno, the best place to ask about varieties and trades is the Seed Exchange here, link at the top of this first page to the right, b'c that's where all wants and trades are supposed to go.
If no luck there or yo ou want to buy some I've linked to Tania's page for that variety so you can see which seed sites list it for sale.
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Pearly Pink
Oh no!!! I totally was obsessed with wanting to try OM tomatoes last season so I completely thought that was what I was growing this season.
I actually travelled to the US for a couple of months starting at the end of September so I had the housemaids plant the seeds for me. I thought it was an OM seed packet I gave them.
I looked at my old thread asking about the OM flowering early and the leaves are completely different.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg0307191831074.html
I just went through all of my tomato seeds and one that is missing is Brandywine Sudduth so it could possibly be that variety. But I am not sure so I guess this will be a surprise tomato plant for me!
carolyn137 he he he in fact you are the one that gave me advice in that previous thread :D
I am sad it's not OM now... but I guess I had a good reason for giving the house maids a different variety seed packet... I just don't remember why LOL
Gunnar was so correct in that my former computer scorched a transitor. My computer man, and friend, told me last Fall that that might happen and I ignored him.
So here I am with a new computer and it's so different in many ways, but I'm learning.
Gunnar is quite correct that I introduced all three to the SSE Yearbooks.
Joe Bratka had found seeds in glass jars, already named, as bred by his father, couldn't germinate them and sent them to me to try.
I was able to revive;
Box Car Willie
Red Barn
Great Divide
Mule Team
Pasture, a red cherry
There's not that much difference between Mule Team and Box Car Willie as grown by me and I think Red Barn has been overlooked and might be the best tasting and performing of all of them listed above.
Seeds for Indian Stripe were sent to me by a good friend from TX who found the fruits in a garden of a neighbor of her relatives whom she was visiting when in Arkansas.
For all the history you can get it at Tania's wonderful data base. There are many now who prefer IS to Cherokee Purple and Craig LeHoullier, who named CP, agrees with me that IS is probably related to CP in some way.
Su much so that there's a PL version of CP,actually three of them, and a PL version of IS, and now a heart versions of both. I'll be offering the IS heart one very soon and the heart version of CP will also be along soon,I didn'thave a hand in that one but do know of it.
It's hard for me to select just one from that list so why not grow just one of them this next season, then, well you know what I'm suggesting.
I think I'd start with IS, then Red barn, then Box Car Willie and if you have the room all three in one season.
Hope that helps,
Carolyn
Cool! I have grown both Red Barn and Box Car Willie, and would grow both again (with a slight nod to Red Barn I think if push came to shove.) Now, apparently, I need to give this Indian Stripe variety a try. It's been a while since I grew something entirely new, so I'm pretty excited to give it a try.
What extras? Plain tomatoes only need a little lemon juice or citric acid added. Is that what you mean?
There is a big chart in the post linked below (just scroll down to it) with the acidity level given for most common varieties. Hope it helps.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato acidity
Juglone will severely stunt or even kill tomatoes. They are more seriously impacted than most other plants. I was not able to grow tomatoes any closer than 50 feet from black walnut trees in my yard. I now grow all my tomatoes in 25-gallon containers, and I had a very good year in Southwest Ohio in spite of the heat and drought.
If your tomato plants appeared full size and healthy, they probably were not affected by juglone. If they were stunted and sickly, juglone could be the culprit.
2011 and 2012 my tomatoes did very well. Makes me uneasy thinking of 2013 as three in a row seems too much to hope for. The really wet summers are my enemy as my clay soil will not drain and only grows weeds. I am building a smaller area tho of looser soil in another area. I had a Chapman, an orange Burpee and 4 Cherokee Purples there last summer that did well even with less sun than the big garden. I have been able to amend the soil there as it is a much smaller area.
I don't know about Moreton Hybrid but I dehybridized Ramapo F1 many years ago and last I knew many folks were using the F6 or F7 generation and perhaps more and all was well.
Below I linked to the page of Ramapo, the OP, at Tania's great tomato data base site.
I see no seed source for it but I know it's been passed around at several message sites.
If interested you might want to see if anyone has it by going to the seed exchange here at GW, for at least one place.
I have no fresh seeds I can send you and as you can see the dates on the page below you'll know why. I did it when it was announced that Ramapo F1 was going out of production, and of course Rutgers reintroduced the F1 several years ago.
The person Ed Ryan referred to in the page was at one time a large commercial tomato grower in NJ and he felt that my OP selection was just as good as the original F1.
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: OP Ramapo
I grew in 2 locations this year, one florida weave, one regular. I had a bit of sunscald on the regular ones, but none on the FW. Perhaps not surprisingly, the biggest difference was sun exposure - the FW plants had 6-7 hours a day, the regular 10+.
Well Bart, you are two zones warmer than me. My dwarf tomatoes are germinated. I plant them in 16" clear beer cups with lots of holes in the bottom. I only put 2" of soil in them when I put the seeds in then as they grow I add soil. This way the cup is filled with roots when it is time to transplant into pots.
So, I will try - if I get no tomatoes, I will have large plants to plant out in the spring.
You answerered your own Q with this last post. Starting seed now will basically give you a month lead over my starting date for greenhouse planting. By early March you might have plenty of light depending on your setting. However you will get lanky plants in the meantime without supplemental light. Either way you are very optimistic about Winter fruit. Early Spring picking is more realistic.
The National Center for Home Food Preservation.
Here is a link that might be useful: NCHFP - How to can tomatoes
Here is a list of varieties that have had good fruit set in high temps from a grower in Alabama who has this problem every year. Ami
Stump of the World
Kosovo
Bill's Berkley Pink
Neves Azorean Red
Cabernet (hybrid)
JDs Special C Tex
Black Krim
Indian Stripe
Marianna's Peace
I've found that there is a certain time each morning when the nightly dew has dried and sun's heat is still not raging. Around here, it's usually around 10 AM. During heat waves, this is when I go thru the garden shaking blossoms. I can't be totally sure, but I think it helps. My theory is to catch the pollen just as it dries out and just before the temperature gets out of control.
The other benefit is that I get a good look at what's going on with each plant (critters, diseases, etc.) Now, I do realize that I can do this any time I want to because I'm fully retired.
For those that have heat problems frequesntly, I suggest you arrange for some kind of shade, as mentioned above.
Ted
Bigpinks:
So, the wind does not blow in Ohio? I may move there.
I use cages and try to get by with supporting each cage with a 5/8" re-bar driven 18" into the ground. When we get a forecast for our typical rainstorm with a 70 mph wind, I drive in another re-bar.
Sometimes the cages stay upright, sometimes they don't.
What I am trying to acheive is a cross between cages and stakes, where I tie rings around the plants with cloth. It worked pretty well last season, but my wooden stakes were too short.
Wot I do is the traditional staking and tying. Idealy 8' posts stuffed ~18" inground. Cannot use post pounder to do it... they are too wide. Even with 48 stakes, I use at lot of twine (about 2000 feet [ or more of it ] if I do not get lazy). If I could get 7 or 8' tall metal posts for ~$2 I would use them.. easier to pound in and do not break or fall over (if they have a bottom flange). Your plan with the cloth "cages" may work, but one needs a lot of it and also needs to resist the temptation to overly gather the stems together. With twine it is easier to select individual large stems to support. Yet in fact, what I end up with is essentially a tall twine "cage". Advantage over the caging method is that it is more flexible and fewer stems become crimped where they cascade over the concentric cage circles (or squares). Disadvantage over a good cage is that it requires more of the dreaded 4 letter word... "work".
Reggie
Nice photos Raybo! I have the hardest time with peas and beans in SW FL. Yours look great. Good points bmoser...by all means I did not mean to over look the other soil contents. I just happened to have a bag of Epsom around, I was trying to make my own herbal bath soak...which failed...so I thought I'd put the salts to some use rather than just dump em.
ooh, I just planted three tomato plants in their final pots and will be doing another tomorrow... I think I will try the epsom salt test.. two with epsom salt, two without.
I think my containers are 45 gallon... how much epsom salt should I add to each?
Heather,
I received mine this weekend. Thank you so much for another great assortment of seeds!
Alana
Heather, I'm so sorry but I realized that I forgot to post that I received my seeds (around December 18th)! I thought I had posted, but must have gotten side-tracked with something else....Thank you so much for the awesome assortment! As always, you do a fabulous job. Thank you for doing the swap.