16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
wow you went to st joe?
wish I had known to look for you.
since this is a variety targeted towards commercially growing you likely wont find it small quantities. Disregarding the specific disease resistances (most of which shouldnt be a problem where you are anyway) BHN 871 is going to be very similar to 'Carolina Gold' which are more likely to find in smaller quantities. If you have tried it and didnt care for it then you likely wont care for the BHN line.
Siegers seed was about $25 for 500 seed rather than Seedway's price.
I was rather displeased that none of the seed reps had samples of any seed. When I have gone to other meetings in the past seed company reps always had samples to give away.
Since Fusarium can't exist in the soil where the ground freezes deeply, there hasn't been much Fusarium IN NJ, although there are pockets of it. This past winter was a mild one so it would mean, if the spores survived, that you probably should have had Fusarium infected plants LAST season.
Most of the Fusarium in the northern climes is imported on tomato plants that were grown in more southern Fusarium areas and then shipped up north for sale.
What criteria did you use to make a DX of Fusarium as compared with other systemic diseases such as Verticillium and others?
So I assume there were no spots on any of the leaves?
If you're sure that it is Fusarium, and again, may I ask if your plants have ever had it before b'c it seems new to you and you say that ALL of the plants are going down one by one.
No, there are no chemicals that will rid the soil of the systemic diseases caused by either fungal or bacterial diseases.
There's another thread here which discusses what I suggest folks can do if folks have plants with foliage diseases, but I'm not too sure it would work well with systemic diseases, especially if a whole area such as you describe is contaminated.
Hope that helps at least somewhat.
Carolyn
Some of it yes. Classic 'cooked skin' appearance. The rest is uneven ripening caused by hot air temps. They tend to go hand-in-hand.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Sun Scald images
The only way to be sure about that cherry tomato is to grow it again. I have several "volunteers" every year because I don't clean out every fruit that drops to the ground in my garden. One that does this with great regularity is Sungold F1.
I'm quite sure that Sweet 100 is a Hybrid. As such, the variations will be quite evident. Plant 10 seedlings and you will not see 10 identical "true to type" tomato plants with "true to type" fruit on them.
If you like the original and it is a hybrid, then you'll have to buy the seed occasionally.
Ted
Lucky you. Mine never grow that tall. I've been trying for 3 years. For a plant that is supposed to be easy to grow, and an old tyme NE tomato, I always seem to have an issue with it. Love the taste though, which is why I keep trying.
Does that mean they aren't standards now, but rather hybrids?
Not at all. Why would it? Look at all the different Roma's out there. In addition to Rutgers there are sub-species, stabilized selections, of many different stabilized varieties. There are also many different sub-species of classic OP's including Brandywine which has 8 or more sub-species.
Dave
If you puchased these seeds,the seeds remaining in the pack will be viable for many years if stored proper.
If you save seeds from the toms you grew they may not grow out to the same plants you have now .But still are viable.
VIABLE means "(of a seed or spore) Able to germinate."
I really don't have the room to experiment, just hoping for an identical harvest as this year. Maybe one of the nurseries will have them again next year.
Carolyn, you mentioned the aroma of the plant; I think the mosquitoes are attracted to them as well. When I'm picking these babies, I'm getting swarmed by the little beggers. Very uncomfortable. Another home in the neighborhood gets visited by my wife doing homecare and when she works with her patients outside the same thing happens to her. There's a sungold plant near her as well.
They are tasty though. (the tomatoes that is)
Speak to ya,
elliot
Is it good? Well it won't hurt anything but it isn't the way it is intended to be used and it will increase the leach-out rate.
Granular organic fertilizers will only work in containers if there is something in there besides a sterile potting mix to provide the needed bacteria for it to work. Organic fertilizers work well for in ground plants because of all the natural soil food web in the dirt but in containers, which need to be filled with a well draining potting mix rather than dirt, there is nothing to convert it to a usable form by the plants.
Dave
Doesn't look like Blight to me, Usually yellow leaves with brown edges means water stress. Also Later in the season I think some leaf branches will just die off naturally, especially near the bottom of the plant.
I see no mulch and weed competition, so I would say water stress + the age of the plant. Clip off the yellow and dying leaves, Add some mulch and see if that helps.
For a home fungal spray, Add the following to a gallon of water. 2 Tbl Spoons Baking Soda, 2 Table Spoons Veg Oil, Few drops of Dishsoap. Spray on the tops and bottoms of the leaves and the stems of the plants.
CH
I didn't mulch this year, I suspect nutrient issues, used micronutrient solution but was not very accurate/consistent in its use. Don't want to spray Daconil all the time (it rubs me the wrong way). Thinking of removing the top 2 inches of soil at the end of season and next year using thick landscaping fabric and mulch to protect the leaves from splach infestation from the soil. I need to test my soil.
Nothing needs to be trimmed off. Read the FAQ here and through all the discussions about pruning. There is really no such thing as 'suckers'. They are lateral branches and they do produce fruit.
The claim that you must remove what are called suckers is old way-outdated wives tales spread by folks who don't understand how tomatoes grow.
Dave
Also, the things you are calling branches are leaf stems. You do not want to trim these off unless they are on the bottom of a mature plant. This is what the plant uses to collect energy from the sun. They are pretty good to keep. The more energy the plant can collect and use from the sun, the more energy it can put into making new plant parts, which if all else is good, could be more tomatoes.
CH
Keep in mind that tomatoes are an annual plant. Their only mission in life is to produce seeds (i.e., fruit). Once that's done, they begin to die. These plants look fine for late summer. Nobody grows tomatoes for beautiful foliage (although they can look pretty gorgeous in late spring). It's Mother Nature's little plan, like it or not.
You could knock back that fungal infection pretty easy, I'd say they have some time left to make you more fruit.
I have been keeping late blight at bay with a homeade spray. In one gallon of water, mix 2 TBL spoons of Baking Soda and 2 TBL Spoons of any Veg or olive oil, and add a few drops of dish soap. Mix well and spray on your plants.
CH
Link below is to a number of past and current discussions on the same issue and will explain the causes. Just scroll down to all the ones with blue frames.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: No fruit, no tomatoes on plant
Sandy, there are many variables that play into BER being induced and many threads here discussing it. For sure weather can be one of them.
It's well known that paste varieties are more susceptible to it, as well as Early Blight (A. solani).
What causes internal BER as opposed to the much more external kind that almost all of us are familiar with. I can only speculate, knowing that the physiology of varieties can be very different ( movement of water and nutrients within the plant) that sometimes the lack of Ca++ occurs internally as well. And I'd attribute that to the transpiration of ions that's known to occur through the upper leaf surface.
Sheer guess work on my part trying to put together transpiration, all the variables known to induce BER and come up with something that at least sounds reasonable to me. LOL
Carolyn
Thanks for the response, Carolyn. I get a lot of questions about BER and I'm still learning more about it each year. Not a scientist or professional, just a long time Master Gardener who likes to know what I'm talking about!
(I bought your book about 3 years ago and didn't realize I was getting a collectible item! Wow! It is one of my most prized books and won't part from me until my hands are cold and dead!!!)