16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Looks like Bacterial Speck to me. All that infected/spotted foliage needs to be removed from the plant and start spraying all the plant with a good fungicide. If you are overhead watering you need to stop. If it is heavy rains that caused it about all you can do is try to keep ahead of it.
Dave
PS: you also need to tie all these post together with links. Next time just post all the pics in the one post so all the info is in one place.
to add to this question, My Toms are planted about 36 inches apart and the leaves are just about touching each other. They are in 20 diameter 6 foot tall cages that i made from a garden mesh. My issue is that growing season is only about half over and my plants are already over seven feet tall. Pretty soon the main shoots are just going to kink and flop over.
I also debate whether to trim.
Thanks for you expertise.
elliot
I haven't tried to take pictures,
But they look EXACTLY like the images
That come up when I 'Google' Mealy bugs.
White, cottony looking things,
Just like the linked picture.
I am in Zone 9, South Texas.
The plant they are on is in the ground.
This morning I did fine a few
on a couple of the other tomatoes, too.
So it's off to the store later today,
for more Insecticidal Soap!
Unless someone here has a better solution?
Rusty
Here is a link that might be useful: Mealy bugs on tomato plant
Can't tell from this pic but your other post looks like Bacterial Speck to me.
Dave
PS: putting all pics in one thread is easy. Just copy and paste the HTML address your online photo storage site gives you for each pic.
Here is a link that might be useful: Your other post
I have had good luck with Sweet Millions in 111+ degree temperatures with humidity. They were probably one of the only tomato plants out of 30 that produced tomatoes because of the high heat.
I prefer sweet millions over sweet 100 because of the amount of tomatoes it produces. However, this year so far seems like they are slow to produce or someone sold me Sweet 100's and called them Sweet Millions. (You get crazy conspiracy thoughts running though your head when your tomato plants are slow.) One of the best places I grew the Sweet millions plant was under a pine tree with a cold compost soil amendment into heavy clay. The plant went nuts and produced more tomatoes than I have ever seen off of one plant. It was nearly 10 feet tall before the branches started to break in high winds.
Cole Robbie, that is a great idea! I did notice some of the leaf ends getting a little brown, which doesn't quite look like the blight damage, so I think that maybe the roots are too hot. I think I will mulch them with some straw. As far as the bed, for the most part it is surrounded by marigolds so direct sun only reaches very little of it.
Quick update:
Hopefully I don't jinks it by saying this, but my plants are doing really well. They are growing and setting fruit. I've only removed about 6-7 more leaves since last time i posted. Maybe it wasn't late blight (or gray mold) after all...
Copper has long been known as an antimicrobial and useful in either modifying, inhibiting or actually destroying a multitude of bacteria and fungi when applied in proper doses.
How it does it varies with the organism and dose level. In some cases it changes the pH, in some it destroys the bacteria's amino acids, in some it alters the cell structure. A Google of 'antimicrobial properties of copper' gets you all kinds of info.
Rather than mixing the two and applying at the same time since they can interact and even neutralize each other to a degree, the most common recommendation is to alternate applications of the two different compounds.
Dave
Carolyn and Dave,
Thank you for your replies.
Another area of confusion regarding fungicide application is so many people saying that you have to cover the entire plant with Daconil. Carolyn, I've seen posts from you that say only the upper leaf surface has the fungus attachment sites, so only the leaf tops need to be sprayed. Why all the different opinions?
Need to see a picture of them please including a close up of the leaves. 50 things can cause wilting so much information is needed as well beginning with your zone/location, containers or in ground, if in containers how big are they, age of the plant, exposure to weed killer drift, watering regimen as in how often, feeding regimen, signs of disease, why watering with sprinkers, etc.
The more info you provide the better we can help. Otherwise all we can do is make guesses.
Dave
The 4-8-12 mentioned last sounds better than the other two formulas, with heavy nitrogen. My neighbor says he put down MG tomato food as directed, three times. He has no fruit, but two doors down my cherry toms are producing.
I have some slow release tomato food (where the N no. is less than the P and K). Compost and compost tea are my main additives. Only used the tomato food once so far this year.
sawmill farm rt 102 cov. r.i. would have been great, but by the time I called, he was out of the varieties I was interested in. A good place to keep in mind for a BIG variety of tomatoes and I think he said peppers too.
Happy Gardening,
Tom
Cory, based on just your second picture b/c you have some other stuff growing in that greenhouse, if it were me I'd ignore it for now.
It's either physiological Leaf Roll, in which case when root and foliage mass are in more balance it will go away, or it's just plain leaf Curl in which case that can happen when it's too dry, too wet, too hot, too cool, and in such smaller plants such as yours that too might go away as they mature.
If the leaves curl over into a tube structure check for aphids. Aphids love greenhouses.
From that one picture I don't see any evidence of herbicide damage.
Since you say that all of your indet plants are showing it, then I assume that it's more environmental and/or a function of the plants going more towards maturity than anything else.
If any other symptoms show up please let us know.
Carolyn
Thanks......hopefully my plants end up using all that space. Not familiar with Woody's cages.....is there a site?
Google is my friend:
These look great. Thanks for posting Nu2. I prefer wood over metal, thinking the plants would prefer wood over metal too because of the metal heating up. I would paint mine a bright blue probably. I'm not sure of your location Nu2 but here in Phx, heat factors into everything.
Here is a link that might be useful: Woody's Tomato Cages - Instructions