16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
My ground tomatoes are far ahead of the containers in size, although the container tomatoes are fruiting earlier. I suspect it's due to pot size limitations. All in all though, I expect far more fruit from the ground, but the early havest the containers give you is nice.
Now peppers are different. They produce both earlier and more prolific in pots all around. At least in my zone.
Maybe its just something as simple as the a difference in the fertilizers your using. My neighbor put his plants in the ground about the same time as me but a lot of his plants are about 8' while mine are around 6'. He is using a 13-13-13 fertilizer he had and didn't want to buy any (he's kinda cheap) and I am using a 6-12-12. The higher nitrogen helps the plant grow but doesn't help with setting the fruit. While his are considerably taller he has picked maybe 20# while I have just passed 100#.
I did the soil test for vegetables before planting and amended the soil the way they recommended and I am very pleased with the results so far.
No, they aren't heading for the grave.
Your plants aren't old enough to be showing old age, as it were, when some of the bottom leaves normally turn yellow so I would think that it was due to the constant rain you referred to.
Yes, the one large lesion I see I think I see the concentric rings that would indicatre Early Blight ( A. solani).
Do you see any affected leaves higher up on the plant?
If only on the lower leaves it could be due to splashback infection where spores have fallen to the soil in a previous year.
Take off and dispose of any affected leaves, the ones with evidence of foliage infection, such as the Early Blight ones. Forget about the yellow leaves b'c they will probabky fall of naturally.
Then ASAP start with a regular shcedule of a good antifungal, I suggest Daconil, which covers the specific attachment sites on the upper leaf surface where EB and Septoria Leaf Spot attach, thus lessening the incidence of infection. It does nothing for the two other major foliage pathogens, Bacterial Speck and Bacterial Spot.
Daconil is a preventive, not a cure andhould be started as soon as the plants are put out, but starting now will help prevent any new infections.
Foliage pathogens are spread by wind and also embedded in raindrops.
Since you didn't give your gardening zone or at least indicate where you garden, in a geographinc sense I'm thinking FL, but could be completely wrong on that.
Carolyn, I forgot to say that Daconil can be sprayed up to the day of harvest as well.
Agree. You may not get fruit set in high temps, but indeterminate plant types will continue to set after they have a major flower drop. Determinates can be an issue if the timing is wrong, as they tend to flower all at once, and may not rebound with more flowers. Indeterminates are the best defense against weather.
Last year, after 70 straight days of 100+ degree temps, the super sweet 100s I nursed through produced hundreds of fruit once the heat broke. I also pulled over 40 hornworms off of those 12 plants.
That a hard frost came through and knocked them all off before they ripened, is a different story.
Here is a link that might be useful: DFW Gardener
tomatotomata,
Someone may disagree with my assessment, but remember that there are as many "right" ways to grow tomatoes as there are tomato growers! LOL!
I remember what each component of a fertilizer does by the mnemonic up-down-all around. Nitrogen gives you leaf growth, phosphorous supports root structure (very important to container plants) and potassium is good for all around plant health.
I'd suggest that you try one of the fertilizers that is lower in nitrogen, such as a 5-10-10 or even 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. The University of Missouri Extension Office states "Among the best analyses for tomatoes are 8-32-16 and 6-24-24." The ratio that tomatoes need is the same for inground or container plants, it's just that container plants need to be fed more often with a water soluable version because there isn't a "micro-herd" to help break it down like you'd have in the soil.
Miracle Grow makes a fertilizer blended specifically for tomatoes, that has an NPK ratio of 18-18-21, Spectrum Brands (Garden Safe) has one that is 1-1-4 (it's organic and the one I use for my plants that are not yet in ground that need a boost), TNT Tomato Booster has a formula of 5-16-12, AlgoFlash Tomato fertilizer has an analysis of 4-6-8, and I am sure there are others. If you can't locate one specific to tomatoes, look for one that says vegetables or bloom booster and check the NPK ratios. Try 1/4 strength of the label suggestion and feed weekly with it, you can adjust if needed.
I hope that helps.
Betsy
Don't decrease N, just increase P.
In theory and experienced practice one can use different ratios fertilizers at different stages of tomato growth to give it exactly what it needs at given time.
Another thing that is important to understand is that each of the 3 macro nutrients, even though more pronounced for something in particular (ie N for leaf, P for root etc.) are all essential to healthy plants in all stages so you will always need all 3 (not enough P can also mean less flowers while K is needed for healthy fruit development and ripening...), its just the amounts that can vary.
That been said, a fine balanced fert with slightly higher potash value will do the trick for the whole season without the need to switch to other ferts for certain stages.
So as Betsy said, get something like that MG for tomatoes (18-18-21) or anything similar, and make sure it has micro nutrients as well. Follow what the label says and enjoy your tomatoes ;)
Cheers,
Djole
"Grow healthy plants and you will have few if any whitefly problems except late in the season when the tomato plants are stressed."
This, alas, is not the case. Whiteflies can occur anytime in the season and, at least in my gardens, proliferate with abandon on healthy and robust tomato plants.
Thanks for all responses. I have contacted the nursery and am waiting for a managers response. I am going to try to use up these cherry tomatoes. I started everything in my garden by seed myself except the tomatoes. I will definitely not be afraid to try seedlings myself next time.
Agree. Prune 'em up a little! Put a few sheets of newspaper or straw or both around them (2 foot radius around stem is not too much). Helps minimize the splash as well. Cage 'em up so they grow up in the air. Keep them off the ground (if they are not too big already).
There seems to be a lot of argument over whether you need two plants or not. I remember hearing that at one point, but in 'Seed to Seed' (second edition) by Suzanne Ashworth, they are listed as perfect and inbreeding. Having grown them a few times, and one time I could swear with only one plant (no one is anywhere near me growing them) and seeing the way they are absolutely over flowing in fruit, I believe they do not need another plant. I of course could always be wrong, lol. Ok, I looked into it more, and I've found a few sources saying sometimes self-incompatible. It is all quite odd, lol.
Remy
Has anyone noticed that the dried blossoms of tomato flowers are usually attached on the tomatoes with BER?
No.
This is a problem with a known cause. See the FAQ, What is blossom-end rot? How can I prevent it?
Like larryw, I often eat the meat of the tomato and save the seeds. Consequently, the amount of tomato and water in each batch varies quite a bit, and not each batch ferments at the same rate. And I tend to save seeds in fits and starts, so I may have quite a few cups lined up on the shelf at a time.
I discovered a shortcut last year that saves time and confusion. I write the variety name and the processing date on a piece of paper and tape it to the fermenting cup. Then after washing the seeds and transferring them to the folded paper towel, I simply remove the paper label from the cup and stick it on the paper towel.
30 degrees Celsius is 86 Fahrenheit. That is WAY too hot to keep a reservoir. I'm surprised the plants are still alive.
Roots like it cool, not hot. Optimum temp is around 60 degrees F. Your reservoir solution will hold the max amount of oxygen at about that temp. Otherwise, the amount of oxygen it can hold goes down exponentially as you get farther away in temperature. A chiller would help you out more than a heater. They are expensive, though. It's easier to put your reservoir underground or at least shade it from the sun.
Also, the only benefit you get from the air pump is on the surface where the bubbles pop. As the air bubbles travel from the bottom to top, surface tension keeps any oxygen from going into the water from the bubble itself. We look at a lot of bubbles and think there is a lot of oxygen in the water, but it is an illusion. You would be better off to ditch the air pump and get a small water pump. Position it flowing sideways at the surface. Look for a "power head" pump in the aquarium section of the pet store.
Good luck with your project. It is a learning journey for everyone, and I wish you the best.
I bought hybrid Sungolds from a nursery this year, and they are the most amazing tomato in my garden. Not only are they huge, but they're producing much earlier than any of my other cherry tomatoes. I love the flavor, sweet and interesting. I will definitely be buying them again next year. The other post about splitting might be due to inconsistent or excess water, I haven't had any problems with that.
First off you don't need bees at all,period.
Try shaking the stems of your plants to help release pollen,or brush your hands across the flowers >
Humidity can be a factor also,as it clumps the pollen up.
Not all tomato plants are created equall,do not grow exactly the same.
Consider the DTM of each variety (Days To Maturity -- not from the time seeds are sown, but from the time you plant out):
Fourth of July -- 49 DTM
Bush Early Girl -- 65 DTM
Goliath -- 65-85 DTM (no consistency)
Momotaro -- 74 DTM
Pink Brandywine -- If this is Brandywine Sudduth, 85 DTM
Of course, those DTM numbers aren't written in stone -- just general guidelines (sometimes indicative of the seed- or plant-seller's ability to lie positive thinking).
So you see, your early varieties are the ones which have set fruit. You may think the plant is old enough to set fruit, but it may have a later DTM and not be ready yet. And of course, the weather was way weird.
This timeline shows about 50 days from when the blossom opens to a fruit's peak ripeness. So for the plants which haven't set fruit yet, count the days since you planted them, then add 50: how does that compare to the plant's DTM?
http://www.tomatosite.com/index.php?NT=Cultivation&RE=Truss_Timeline