16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
"Grow healthy plants and you will have few if any whitefly problems except late in the season when the tomato plants are stressed."
This, alas, is not the case. Whiteflies can occur anytime in the season and, at least in my gardens, proliferate with abandon on healthy and robust tomato plants.
Thanks for all responses. I have contacted the nursery and am waiting for a managers response. I am going to try to use up these cherry tomatoes. I started everything in my garden by seed myself except the tomatoes. I will definitely not be afraid to try seedlings myself next time.
Agree. Prune 'em up a little! Put a few sheets of newspaper or straw or both around them (2 foot radius around stem is not too much). Helps minimize the splash as well. Cage 'em up so they grow up in the air. Keep them off the ground (if they are not too big already).
There seems to be a lot of argument over whether you need two plants or not. I remember hearing that at one point, but in 'Seed to Seed' (second edition) by Suzanne Ashworth, they are listed as perfect and inbreeding. Having grown them a few times, and one time I could swear with only one plant (no one is anywhere near me growing them) and seeing the way they are absolutely over flowing in fruit, I believe they do not need another plant. I of course could always be wrong, lol. Ok, I looked into it more, and I've found a few sources saying sometimes self-incompatible. It is all quite odd, lol.
Remy
Has anyone noticed that the dried blossoms of tomato flowers are usually attached on the tomatoes with BER?
No.
This is a problem with a known cause. See the FAQ, What is blossom-end rot? How can I prevent it?
Like larryw, I often eat the meat of the tomato and save the seeds. Consequently, the amount of tomato and water in each batch varies quite a bit, and not each batch ferments at the same rate. And I tend to save seeds in fits and starts, so I may have quite a few cups lined up on the shelf at a time.
I discovered a shortcut last year that saves time and confusion. I write the variety name and the processing date on a piece of paper and tape it to the fermenting cup. Then after washing the seeds and transferring them to the folded paper towel, I simply remove the paper label from the cup and stick it on the paper towel.
30 degrees Celsius is 86 Fahrenheit. That is WAY too hot to keep a reservoir. I'm surprised the plants are still alive.
Roots like it cool, not hot. Optimum temp is around 60 degrees F. Your reservoir solution will hold the max amount of oxygen at about that temp. Otherwise, the amount of oxygen it can hold goes down exponentially as you get farther away in temperature. A chiller would help you out more than a heater. They are expensive, though. It's easier to put your reservoir underground or at least shade it from the sun.
Also, the only benefit you get from the air pump is on the surface where the bubbles pop. As the air bubbles travel from the bottom to top, surface tension keeps any oxygen from going into the water from the bubble itself. We look at a lot of bubbles and think there is a lot of oxygen in the water, but it is an illusion. You would be better off to ditch the air pump and get a small water pump. Position it flowing sideways at the surface. Look for a "power head" pump in the aquarium section of the pet store.
Good luck with your project. It is a learning journey for everyone, and I wish you the best.
I bought hybrid Sungolds from a nursery this year, and they are the most amazing tomato in my garden. Not only are they huge, but they're producing much earlier than any of my other cherry tomatoes. I love the flavor, sweet and interesting. I will definitely be buying them again next year. The other post about splitting might be due to inconsistent or excess water, I haven't had any problems with that.
Thanks Deborah,
That makes sense. That plus Carolyn's input would suggest that "growth" and maturation are a continuous process. Due to the climate in Houston I always fill my water tanks in the evening.
Now my question is does pollination/set take place only in daylight or can it take place at night?
Jack
We had three weeds of dry weather, and while it did take it toll on grass, I'd prefer it for my twenty tomato plants. One year it rained two inches in a day, and on one cherry tomato plant 200-300 fruits split open. When it rains for three or four days in a row, seems like the wilts/blights spread very quickly.
I water my tomatoes and peppers every three or four days and it seems about right.
I'm outside of Columbia, MO. The rain you KC folks get comes right at us and then evaporates just before it gets to my place. Or it goes north, or south, or splits and goes both ways, missing me! I think rain is a Republican phenomenon and it doesn't want to visit this liberal enclave!
Chuck
With cherries on a single truss, to agree with those who have posted above, the fruits nearest the main stem will ripen first and the last fruits at the bottom of the truss last.
And especially with Sungold F1 some like the fully ripe orange ones nearest the main stem and others prefer the less sweet ones in the middle of the truss.
And it's no different for almost all none cherries as well, at least the many ones I've grown, that those on a single truss ripen first nearest the main stem, as noted above.
Carolyn
tomatotomata,
Someone may disagree with my assessment, but remember that there are as many "right" ways to grow tomatoes as there are tomato growers! LOL!
I remember what each component of a fertilizer does by the mnemonic up-down-all around. Nitrogen gives you leaf growth, phosphorous supports root structure (very important to container plants) and potassium is good for all around plant health.
I'd suggest that you try one of the fertilizers that is lower in nitrogen, such as a 5-10-10 or even 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. The University of Missouri Extension Office states "Among the best analyses for tomatoes are 8-32-16 and 6-24-24." The ratio that tomatoes need is the same for inground or container plants, it's just that container plants need to be fed more often with a water soluable version because there isn't a "micro-herd" to help break it down like you'd have in the soil.
Miracle Grow makes a fertilizer blended specifically for tomatoes, that has an NPK ratio of 18-18-21, Spectrum Brands (Garden Safe) has one that is 1-1-4 (it's organic and the one I use for my plants that are not yet in ground that need a boost), TNT Tomato Booster has a formula of 5-16-12, AlgoFlash Tomato fertilizer has an analysis of 4-6-8, and I am sure there are others. If you can't locate one specific to tomatoes, look for one that says vegetables or bloom booster and check the NPK ratios. Try 1/4 strength of the label suggestion and feed weekly with it, you can adjust if needed.
I hope that helps.
Betsy
Don't decrease N, just increase P.
In theory and experienced practice one can use different ratios fertilizers at different stages of tomato growth to give it exactly what it needs at given time.
Another thing that is important to understand is that each of the 3 macro nutrients, even though more pronounced for something in particular (ie N for leaf, P for root etc.) are all essential to healthy plants in all stages so you will always need all 3 (not enough P can also mean less flowers while K is needed for healthy fruit development and ripening...), its just the amounts that can vary.
That been said, a fine balanced fert with slightly higher potash value will do the trick for the whole season without the need to switch to other ferts for certain stages.
So as Betsy said, get something like that MG for tomatoes (18-18-21) or anything similar, and make sure it has micro nutrients as well. Follow what the label says and enjoy your tomatoes ;)
Cheers,
Djole