16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Has anyone noticed that the dried blossoms of tomato flowers are usually attached on the tomatoes with BER?

No.

This is a problem with a known cause. See the FAQ, What is blossom-end rot? How can I prevent it?

"I think the same reasoning applies to catfacing."

NO!

the catfacing is pollination during cooler temps.

Are you saying you can post for help here but cant google search ?

Like larryw, I often eat the meat of the tomato and save the seeds. Consequently, the amount of tomato and water in each batch varies quite a bit, and not each batch ferments at the same rate. And I tend to save seeds in fits and starts, so I may have quite a few cups lined up on the shelf at a time.

I discovered a shortcut last year that saves time and confusion. I write the variety name and the processing date on a piece of paper and tape it to the fermenting cup. Then after washing the seeds and transferring them to the folded paper towel, I simply remove the paper label from the cup and stick it on the paper towel.

Blaby, maybe, if physiological leaf roll the root mass has to increase before new foliage will appear based on what I wrote above.

And maybe Daves suggestion that it's Bush Bog Boy plants that you're growing.

Carolyn

Thanks Dave & Carolyn. After looking at pictures, I may have planted Bush Big Boy tomatoes. I just surprised that there hasn't been any new growth in at least 3 weeks.

Post Pics

30 degrees Celsius is 86 Fahrenheit. That is WAY too hot to keep a reservoir. I'm surprised the plants are still alive.

Roots like it cool, not hot. Optimum temp is around 60 degrees F. Your reservoir solution will hold the max amount of oxygen at about that temp. Otherwise, the amount of oxygen it can hold goes down exponentially as you get farther away in temperature. A chiller would help you out more than a heater. They are expensive, though. It's easier to put your reservoir underground or at least shade it from the sun.

Also, the only benefit you get from the air pump is on the surface where the bubbles pop. As the air bubbles travel from the bottom to top, surface tension keeps any oxygen from going into the water from the bubble itself. We look at a lot of bubbles and think there is a lot of oxygen in the water, but it is an illusion. You would be better off to ditch the air pump and get a small water pump. Position it flowing sideways at the surface. Look for a "power head" pump in the aquarium section of the pet store.

Good luck with your project. It is a learning journey for everyone, and I wish you the best.

I bought hybrid Sungolds from a nursery this year, and they are the most amazing tomato in my garden. Not only are they huge, but they're producing much earlier than any of my other cherry tomatoes. I love the flavor, sweet and interesting. I will definitely be buying them again next year. The other post about splitting might be due to inconsistent or excess water, I haven't had any problems with that.

IMHO Sungolds are a keeper - one of the tomatoes i will always have in my garden (along with Gardeners Delight). Others come and go, but SGs are here to stay ;)

Thanks Deborah,

That makes sense. That plus Carolyn's input would suggest that "growth" and maturation are a continuous process. Due to the climate in Houston I always fill my water tanks in the evening.

Now my question is does pollination/set take place only in daylight or can it take place at night?

Jack

Pollintion can most certainly happen at night also

Thanks for your input! I think I will try to transplant and if i lose it so be it! I can't sacrifice my beans! I'll keep you posted!

Then you need to go to the BEAN forum

I say get it out of there! I also thought first of overwatering, but root damage of any source might look similar. If you pull it, post a picture if the roots please!

Have you checked to see if it's drip (dripper) is plugged?

We had three weeds of dry weather, and while it did take it toll on grass, I'd prefer it for my twenty tomato plants. One year it rained two inches in a day, and on one cherry tomato plant 200-300 fruits split open. When it rains for three or four days in a row, seems like the wilts/blights spread very quickly.

I water my tomatoes and peppers every three or four days and it seems about right.

I'm outside of Columbia, MO. The rain you KC folks get comes right at us and then evaporates just before it gets to my place. Or it goes north, or south, or splits and goes both ways, missing me! I think rain is a Republican phenomenon and it doesn't want to visit this liberal enclave!

Chuck

With cherries on a single truss, to agree with those who have posted above, the fruits nearest the main stem will ripen first and the last fruits at the bottom of the truss last.

And especially with Sungold F1 some like the fully ripe orange ones nearest the main stem and others prefer the less sweet ones in the middle of the truss.

And it's no different for almost all none cherries as well, at least the many ones I've grown, that those on a single truss ripen first nearest the main stem, as noted above.

Carolyn

+1 on the less sweet ones in the middle

Using 5 gal containers is the absolute minimum size for
tomatoes. Larger containers will give you better results.

I've added a link to a study done long ago, but still
relevant to tomatoes.

In it (in case you don't want to plow through the entire
thing), it states:

the root system of a tomato plant of average size filled the soil on all sides of the plant to 2 to 2.5 feet and to a depth of over 3 feet

Much bigger than a 5 gal container.

Another section of the same article states:

In general the yield decreases in proportion to the severity of pruning. For example, at Urbana, Ill., plants pruned to a single stem gave a yield of 6.5 pounds of marketable fruit; those pruned to 2 stems yielded 10.5 pounds; those with three stems 12.1 pounds; but plants not pruned gave a yield of 19.6 pounds.

I prune to 4 main leaders and get rid of the rest. I want
to go up, not out. Limited space is my reason. I get more
than enough tomatoes from my 9 plants to satisfy all my
needs. And then some. I'm able to have different varieties
by this method.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato root development article

Digdirt, that is all I could have asked for in a response. I will not be pruning anything from here on out, hopefully I can get a few suckers to start growing now and making fruit.

It's ok that the post got a little off track, we are all here for the same reason. To learn and spread what we have learned.

Thanks

Carissa, I too am hoping for response to your questions. I do see some dirt cheap bags online but haven't verified shipping cost. I tried 5 gal. buckets last year and would like to try bags this year.

I grow right in the plastic soil bag. I use potting soil instead of garden soil because of the drainage issue.I also use compost teas as they have proven to be more powerful than just regular compost. I've also used our dog's old plastic swimming pool after she put a hole in it. Talk about a great raised bed.

xxx1angel3xxx, could we have a close-up photo of some of the leaves which are just starting to have problems?

Are there black or dark spots on the main stem(s)?

Where in zone 8 are you located?

I'll get a pic tomorrow. I really would like to know what takes them out. with most it's very fast and they die very quick, but the better boy seems to be hanging in there as it still has some good branches. the brandywine however has not shown any sign of it, and that blows my mind because I've always heard like Dave said that if it's out there they will get it... in any event I will save the seed from it if I can.. I mean I broke one part of it and it still didn't stop going. it's not a very big vine,and I let it get root bound in the starter pot. if I get seed from it I will put it up for trade as far as I see this a really good tomato plant. I would love to see it get around. I will need everyone help to teach me the proper way to save seed

My German Queens don't produce fruits like that. Last year I got about 4 fruits per plant.

Hi all,I planted a german queen for the first time this year and started it out in a topsy turvey,She didnt like this set-up,the main stalk turned black,I put her in a pot on the front deck and she is doing fine,I have used topsy's for years and have my own custom stand with a gravity fed watering system and consistantly churn out super tomatoes.Tomatoes are like anything else,you have to commit to them or it wont work,watering and temperatures go hand in hand and it takes patience and dedication for it to pay off.I grow nothing but tomatoes and have learned how to from trial and error,Happy growing