16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Tomatoes are self fertile. With an 8 mph wind you have the perfect pollinator already in place. I would imagine fruit isn't setting because the plants are stressed. Even under ideal container conditions you are looking at 30-40% of normal production. There was a recent post about this. Throw in the Houston climate and I think you should feel good if you get anywhere near 30% of a normal yield.
To improve you chances, I would try to stick to cherry types or go really big with the container - i.e. full wine barrel.
Looks like tobacco Mosaic virus to me.
Here is a link that might be useful: tobacco mosaic virus
Robeb, those look gorgeous. I didn't plant cherokee for the first time this year because every single one rotted last year. The year before I got a couple good ones. They're probably my favorite but I just can't seem to grow them. Plus they were out of control growth wise. They sure are yummy, though!
I picked my Cherokee tomato yesterday for the first time when it started to show some color on the bottom. I read that is when to pick them because they could become overripe on the vine. This is the first time in Florida that I have been able to grow tomatoes that look this good. My son made these grow boxes from 18 gallon storage bins. You use a lot less water with this method. If anyone wants information on the home made grow boxes just email me at tangerine@cfl.rr.com.
For instance, when tissues were taken from a plant that has BER fruits and was assayed for Ca++, the normal level of Ca++ was found, it just wasn't getting to the blossom end of fruits.
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Above is another snippet from what I wrote and oh how I'd like to link to that article but no can do b'c the original link disappeared from my faves.
What it's saying is that yes, Ca++ normally does get taken up by the roots and can be found in the tissues of the tomato, other than the two situations I mentioned which were NO Ca++ in the soil as determined by soil testing and soil too acidic in which case the pH can be altered to counter that.
I forgot to say that what I wrote refers to inground tomatoes. When growing in continers, EB's or otherwise, usually the mix added to the containers is not pure soil, rather, usually a combo of soilless mix such as Pro=mix and friends and then usually bagged composted cow manure, and in that case Ca++ should be added to whatever is in the container mix.
Finally, I've signed off on every post I've ever done as Carolyn, not Dr. Carolyn, forever, probably since 1983 and I do prefer Carolyn. The Dr. Carolyn wasn't even known, really, until my book on heirloom tomatoes was published in 1999 and there it was on the cover.
There are times when the Dr, bit is used but that was in my professional life, and always Carolyn for private life and gardening. After all, I was raised on a farm where we had acres and acres of tomatoes and almost any other other crop you want to mention, as well as orchards, some of which contained trees that the Shakers planted since it was my grandfather who bought our acreage from the Shakers in 1905/
Carolyn
Hi Folks,
Okay, the "backwards" curl has reversed and become the traditional one. We haven't had rain in about three weeks and the temp is ranging from 50-90 every day. I mulched the plants pretty heavily with straw still continue to water with a soaker hose. Plants seem very green and healthy but some exhibit the leaf curl. Guessing that's because they'd like more water.
On pics. When I started at GW I could post pics fine, then, the site I was using suddenly stopped working here, then someone suggested "tiny pic" or something like that. Worked for a while, then nada--
If someone can suggest a pic hosting site that will allow my windows Vista, and ISP (radio, a "sort of" WIFI) connection to "play nice" please do.
Thanks,
Ev
First of all, thank you all so much for taking the time to consider my problem!!!
Second, follow up: This year I
1- mulched
2- have been rather meticulous about keeping the bottom of the plants trimmed
3- redirected the sprinklers not to hit the plants.
That's all I've done...so far so good, but it is still early in the season. Thank you again!!
Puggylover, there are timers you can get that attach to the outside faucet. Some are "battery powered computerized gizmos", some are just "mechanical wind up timers". I have a mechanical timer right at the faucet. They should be available at your local hardware big-box store.
(I design microprocessor based engine and transmission controllers for the automotive industry, for twenty three years now. So I hate the gizmos types. I don't have a cell phone either! And the coffee pot just has one switch on it!!!)
Agree with the no pruning to an extent. I usually try to get 3 main stems near ground level and stake them. After that I remove all suckers below the first fruit cluster. Above the first fruit cluster I don't remove anything. I also remove any branches that are in contact with the ground to prevent soil born disease and improve air circulation around the plant. It is more important to do the if you don't mulch and water from above (which it looks like is the case in you pic).
I have (or had) 17 plants growing in containers in my back yard. I have been treating all of them with Daconil on a regular basis. Unfortunately that didn't stop an Earl's Faux from coming down with a disease that looks suspiciously similar to what is shown in shown in your photos. I pulled all the leaves that showed even the slightest symptom, but that didn't do much to slow down the progression; within 48 hours half the leaves seemed to be infected and were beginning to shrivel and die. None of my other plants were infected, and to try to keep it that way, I removed the diseased one from the garden completely. Maybe the plant could have been saved, but I couldn't pin down exactly what the disease was from the pictures I saw online and so better safe than sorry.
Larry
These are in containers? Or in the ground? I don't know why everyone always assumes we automatically know that when it makes such a big difference in the replies.
Ants, with the exception of fire ants, while they provide no pollination assistance, are normally not considered an issue in gardens but in containers they can pose a problem if you don't ID what is attracting them. If they set up a full colony in a container the roots can be badly damaged.
So if it is a container, move it to a different location and let it dry out as much as possible before watering it again since it is the moisture they are after. Even so far as to let the plant wilt a bit. The ants will leave. If the plants are in ground don't worry about it.
Dave
Thanks Dave.
I apologize for failing to mention that yes, they're in containers.
I'll do that and see if it works.