16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
For instance, when tissues were taken from a plant that has BER fruits and was assayed for Ca++, the normal level of Ca++ was found, it just wasn't getting to the blossom end of fruits.
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Above is another snippet from what I wrote and oh how I'd like to link to that article but no can do b'c the original link disappeared from my faves.
What it's saying is that yes, Ca++ normally does get taken up by the roots and can be found in the tissues of the tomato, other than the two situations I mentioned which were NO Ca++ in the soil as determined by soil testing and soil too acidic in which case the pH can be altered to counter that.
I forgot to say that what I wrote refers to inground tomatoes. When growing in continers, EB's or otherwise, usually the mix added to the containers is not pure soil, rather, usually a combo of soilless mix such as Pro=mix and friends and then usually bagged composted cow manure, and in that case Ca++ should be added to whatever is in the container mix.
Finally, I've signed off on every post I've ever done as Carolyn, not Dr. Carolyn, forever, probably since 1983 and I do prefer Carolyn. The Dr. Carolyn wasn't even known, really, until my book on heirloom tomatoes was published in 1999 and there it was on the cover.
There are times when the Dr, bit is used but that was in my professional life, and always Carolyn for private life and gardening. After all, I was raised on a farm where we had acres and acres of tomatoes and almost any other other crop you want to mention, as well as orchards, some of which contained trees that the Shakers planted since it was my grandfather who bought our acreage from the Shakers in 1905/
Carolyn
Hi Folks,
Okay, the "backwards" curl has reversed and become the traditional one. We haven't had rain in about three weeks and the temp is ranging from 50-90 every day. I mulched the plants pretty heavily with straw still continue to water with a soaker hose. Plants seem very green and healthy but some exhibit the leaf curl. Guessing that's because they'd like more water.
On pics. When I started at GW I could post pics fine, then, the site I was using suddenly stopped working here, then someone suggested "tiny pic" or something like that. Worked for a while, then nada--
If someone can suggest a pic hosting site that will allow my windows Vista, and ISP (radio, a "sort of" WIFI) connection to "play nice" please do.
Thanks,
Ev
First of all, thank you all so much for taking the time to consider my problem!!!
Second, follow up: This year I
1- mulched
2- have been rather meticulous about keeping the bottom of the plants trimmed
3- redirected the sprinklers not to hit the plants.
That's all I've done...so far so good, but it is still early in the season. Thank you again!!
Puggylover, there are timers you can get that attach to the outside faucet. Some are "battery powered computerized gizmos", some are just "mechanical wind up timers". I have a mechanical timer right at the faucet. They should be available at your local hardware big-box store.
(I design microprocessor based engine and transmission controllers for the automotive industry, for twenty three years now. So I hate the gizmos types. I don't have a cell phone either! And the coffee pot just has one switch on it!!!)
Agree with the no pruning to an extent. I usually try to get 3 main stems near ground level and stake them. After that I remove all suckers below the first fruit cluster. Above the first fruit cluster I don't remove anything. I also remove any branches that are in contact with the ground to prevent soil born disease and improve air circulation around the plant. It is more important to do the if you don't mulch and water from above (which it looks like is the case in you pic).
I have (or had) 17 plants growing in containers in my back yard. I have been treating all of them with Daconil on a regular basis. Unfortunately that didn't stop an Earl's Faux from coming down with a disease that looks suspiciously similar to what is shown in shown in your photos. I pulled all the leaves that showed even the slightest symptom, but that didn't do much to slow down the progression; within 48 hours half the leaves seemed to be infected and were beginning to shrivel and die. None of my other plants were infected, and to try to keep it that way, I removed the diseased one from the garden completely. Maybe the plant could have been saved, but I couldn't pin down exactly what the disease was from the pictures I saw online and so better safe than sorry.
Larry
Thanks but I don't need a picture. I have several gallons of it myself. What the label says is *Not for use in organic food and crop production. Note the asterisk. Now note what the asterisk is related to, the reason for the asterisk - Natural Organic Based in the name.
That is because the base contains inert materials and certain stabilizing acids which limits the amount that can be used by Certified Organic Growers, limited, not restricted. In other words, that is the standard asterisk note that all approved organic products with some restrictions on them are required to use to alert certified growers they must monitor the amounts used.
If you want to go by those reviews then please note that the second review down - and more current one - says the product is on the OMRI approved list and that the claim not for organic gardening is not correct.
It is on the OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) list as approved and has been for many, many years.
IF you are a certified organic grower growing for sale of food in the marketplace - which you are not - and if you are in the process of applying for Organic Grower Certification - which you are not - then there is a restriction on how much of it you can use because of the acids used to stabilize it. That restriction does NOT apply to home gardeners.
You can go to the OMRI website linked below and pull the product up to read it for yourself if you wish.
You are going to need to make a choice. Do you wish to be a Certified Organic Grower or a home gardener that grows things as organically as possible while actually having things grow in your garden? The first takes 3-4 years to qualify with all the rules and restrictions and many inspections. The second also takes 3-4 years of soil development, amending, and hard work to accomplish and in the process some compromises have to be made.
Organic gardening is a long-term goal, not a first year accomplishment.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: OMRI
Thank you again Dave. I am certainly not trying to start a dispute. I posted the link not because I'm going by the reviews, but to show you that another person is referring to the same thing I was (since I didn't have a picture) that's written on the bottle. Your clarification is very helpful. I am certainly not trying to get certified and I now kick myself for not buying it. Honestly I was wondering if maybe there are two versions of the product. Would it be helpful if I started using it in a week or so and if I discontinue using the other one I bought?
I have never done it with a black sea man. But I very carefully transplanted a really big better boy from a 5 gallon bucket, with fruit, to the garden this year. It never lost a single one and is doing very good.
I let it get very dry so that I could get it out without losing the soil around it. I dug a 5 gallon hole, set it in, covered and watered very good for the next few days.
This year I had fruit plus a 2nd set of blossoms already on an Early Girl & it transplanted just fine last month even with our cool weather in WA state. Now have 2 more sets of blossoms and those fruits are growing nicely.
Try trench planting it. Dig your hole at an angle big enough for the bucket to fit. Test it using another bucket. I usually do about 45 degrees, but do whatever angle works for fitting in another plant in your space.
Amend the hole with what is recommended in your area. Here we add a handful of calcium carbonate and bonemeal and about 1/2 cup complete organic fertilizer & mix up.
Use a scissor to remove the lower leaves up to the fruiting leaves. Be sure the fruiting leaves won't be touching the soil when planted.
Water with warm water only for the 1st week or so.
This has worked for me.
Peggy, the "white bubbly bits" are most likely not rot but adventitious roots, and not a problem.
The tomato plant's normal reaction to high humidity (whether in the air in rainy weather or along the ground) is to produce roots.
Here's a thread with more info and a photo of some unusually long adventitious roots:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg0623230816529.html?3
Even if the broken stem is wilty when you get home, give it a bit of shade, keep it watered, and in a week or so it will look like a brand new plant (which it will be).
Well, I decided to sacrifice them instead, mostly to give space to more eggplant.
But thanks for the advice. It has been humid in the house. I might give a few seedling to a friend, and I'll just tell her to bury it deep and let it do its thing.
I have several smaller seedling that I might plant a little later so when the bigger ones give out (containers might be a bit constricting) I'll have replacements.
Thanks
Peggy
The only non-equipment items I see at your last link are:
= a blossom-set spray [Those are only effective in the cold weather of early spring. I don't think you have any need for it in Indiana in mid-June].
= a spray that purports to stop Blossom End Rot [Those don't work: the problem is not a lack of calcium in the soil -- or even in the plant -- but spring weather conditions and the young plant's inability to get the calcium to where it's needed quickly enough. By the time you notice a problem and use any of the supposed cures, the season has advanced enough that the worst of the blossom rot is over -- and that would also be the case if you don't use any of those treatments!].
What you do need is something that will provide the plants with the nutrients it needs.
By the way, both of those sprays can be purchased at most garden centers or big-box stores; you don't have to buy them from the EarthBox people.
Re. staying organic, take a look at this thread:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg062100105311.html?10
At the moment I am unable to see any videos (grrr) and I don't remember if you mulched around your plants. That's important if you don't have the cover. You can mulch with commercial mulches, grass clippings (provided the grass wasn't treated with any weed-killing product in the last few months), last fall's shredded leaves, newspaper, cardboard, or even shredded paper.
You should be able to see the link, by just copying it into your browser.
Matt
Here is a link that might be useful: My trim down plant
Robeb, those look gorgeous. I didn't plant cherokee for the first time this year because every single one rotted last year. The year before I got a couple good ones. They're probably my favorite but I just can't seem to grow them. Plus they were out of control growth wise. They sure are yummy, though!
I picked my Cherokee tomato yesterday for the first time when it started to show some color on the bottom. I read that is when to pick them because they could become overripe on the vine. This is the first time in Florida that I have been able to grow tomatoes that look this good. My son made these grow boxes from 18 gallon storage bins. You use a lot less water with this method. If anyone wants information on the home made grow boxes just email me at tangerine@cfl.rr.com.