16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
I was thinking, maybe its a MITE issue?
Here is an album with pics: http://imgur.com/a/BrfD7
Watering issues generally result in the lower leaves turning yellow first and not the upper (at least for me they do). I plant solely in containers and water every other day unless it's been rainy. Then it's every three days. I fertilize every 7-10 days depending on the plant.
There are lots of 'favorite' discussions here. Favorite beefsteak, favorite cherry, favorite determinate, favorite 4-6 oz, red, favorite green, etc.
The forum search bar will pull them up for you - the one at the bottom of the page - if you just type 'favorite' in it.
Personally I have about 20 favorites because they consistently perform well for me and we like the taste. Of course the taste of them grown in your soil would be very different and may not appeal to you. Rutgers, Giant Belgium, Cherokee Purple, Arkansas Traveler, Champion, San Marzano, etc. just to name a few.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Some of the favorite tomato discussions
Matthew, I live in the US (the Blue Ridge Mountains are part of the Southern Appalachians: a narrow band across southern Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, North and South Carolina, and ending in northeast Georgia; I'm in North Carolina).
Whatever it is, it's not any variety Bonnie Plants was selling last year. Almost certainly a cross of some sort rather than a known variety. (How many pink-purple egg-shaped tomatoes can there be?)
And who knows how the next generation will come out? Lots of seeds and gel last year, unfortunately.
Well, the plant has continued to show the same disease signs. I thought maybe it would get better and looked like it might for awhile. The BER is on every fruit from top to bottom and now showing sighs of gray wall again. Will pull the plant tomorrow and get rid of it and the soil in the trash. This is the first time to completely get rid of the plant and soil. Bummer. I don't know what else to do. Thanks everyone. RIP Celebrity plant.
araomd, to edit the zone and location field,
1. At the very bottom of a page, click on "Member Pages" in the green bar.
2. If you are logged in, this should take you to your own member page. If not, I assume you'd need to log in.
3. Click on "Edit Your Membership Details."
4. The field you want is "Garden Zone."
5. Make any other changes you wish, then click "Save Your Member Profile."
I did it once, so I knew it had to be possible somehow....
I am not an expert, but it looks like something might have pecked it and healed all funny. My chickens have given me similar looking fruits, except dimple above it..
Now is the time for someone who knows something to pop in and say exactly.
They are close together, (mine ALWAYS end up that way despite my best intentions.) Fertalize, prune if you must, mulch, and water when needed. Just my .02.
I'm not an expert either, but I agree that the "white splotches" look like some sort of physical damage that has scarred over -- perhaps insects chewed on it. For whatever reason (presumably related to the scarring), that side of the tomato didn't fill out as much as the side away from the camera.
From what I've read, the stripes are seen on some CPs and not on others.
I haven't ever heard of a CP with the coloration of the lighter one. Are all the tomatoes with that coloration from a particular plant? If so I would suspect that plant is not a CP but either a cross or something else: probably a CP cross because of the striping.
Tomatoes ripen first on the blossom end. That may explain the bottom area being more liquid. Perhaps you should try eating them a few days earlier.
I didn't order anything from Shumway this year, but did last year and my free packet said the same thing. We planted some of them and they were quite prolific but terribly prone to BER. The ones we did harvest tasted pretty good, though. We actually have a couple plants again this year from last year's seed. Oh, and even though the packet said "Determinate" they lasted until frost got them just like my Indeterminates.
Edie
Just to give an update. The guy was alive & sticking in the same place for a week from the time I took this picture. He felt down after a week and when I closely inspected all the cocoons had an opening and the wasps are gone. Guessing from the way they eat, I thought these caterpillars have high metabolism and they need a lot of food but he survived a week without any food at all.
Also I don�t find any more caterpillar in the plants, at least not visible anymore.
nirmal
Thanks, everyone, for all the great ideas. I decided to try the Florida Weave and am happy with it so far. I drove t-bar into the ground at the ends of each row, and stretched synthetic baling twine tightly between the pairs of posts; the synthetic twine has not sagged at all. The tomato plants are about 3 feet apart and the line not only does a good job of keeping things upright, but it also allows me to quickly "espalier" the branches to the lines using my Tapener gun.
If you add your zone and/or specific location to the Zone bar provided with posts it then becomes permanent for all your posts and no need to type it in each time.
It really is vital info. They need to remove the "(optional)" element from it because it isn't...optional.
Dave
Hey Guys, thanks. I will click around and see if I can make my area permanent for posts. It is annoying to have to type it in each time.
By the way, Dave, the tomatoes have already started to heal and it's only been about 24 hours-amazing. Thanks for the good advice.
digdirt beat me to it, so I will just add that adventitious roots are also seen as shallow green, white, or tan bumps on the stem (sticking up perhaps only a millimeter or two).
Sometimes people who haven't seen them before think an insect has pierced the outer skin of the stem and laid eggs in a line along the stem.
The tomato's ability to send out adventitious roots means that if your seven-year-old breaks off a branch, you can cut off the newest several inches of it and root a new plant. And if you don't stake or otherwise support a plant, it will root wherever its stems touch the ground.
Birds? No, it never trapped or entangled birds. Sometimes my cats catch some, but that's unrelated.
For tomato bed I suspended CRM on the long sides so I could tie 4 layers horizontally. For pepper and eggplant bed I used stakes on the side to tie 2 layers. There is plenty of room for working through the lower opening to plant lettuce and so on. It is strong enough to support the heavy load last year, but I would like the setup to be more tout for better appearance.
Last summer was the first time I didn't have to frantically trying to add-on or to expand to the CRM. :) I ordered 4' X 328' so there is still a lot left over. I think I'll try to use it vertically for beans this year.
Here is a link that shows a setup diagram similar to mine.
Here is a link that might be useful: Hortonova setup diagram
Coconut Head,
My market plot is actually in Clinton, NY and I work in Utica. I was thinking Syracuse mostly because I know a very good and inexpensive venue there and I know a fair number of people that would attend. I really didn't figure that I would draw much from the Buffalo event since that is still close to three hours from here but in any event, I would make sure that it is not within a few weeks of the Buffalo gathering.
Hi All,
I'm one of the people who hosts the Buffalo~Niagara Party. As Carolyn said, we do have a forum, but unfortunately it can't be link to from this forum. Below on the link I have some pics from last year's party.
It all started out with just 3 of us deciding to have a party. I didn't know how many people would come, but I figured we would have a good time if was only a few people. But quite a few showed up, and we've had a good crowd ever since.
Remy
Here is a link that might be useful: 2011 TomatoParty Photos