16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes


The reason I ask about Texas heat is because some varieties don't pollinate very well in the heat and production is low.
No tomato variety, even the so-called "heat tolerant" ones, pollinate well in the heat and that is an issue for all of us in the south. It is called Blossom Drop and it is the nature of tomatoes.
The controls for that, insofar as it can be controlled, is in the growing conditions provided, not the variety. Earlier planting times, provided shade, heavy mulching, consistent soil moisture levels, windbreaks, extremely large containers if not in ground, low N fertilizers, etc. etc.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Blossom Drop FAQ


jean is right, that is *not* glyphosate damage, that looks like 2-4D damage. My first year of gardening I listened to my grandpa and he said "aw hell just spray roundup around the plants to keep the weeds down. Well, my tomatoes looked like this afterwards:

2-4D causes plants to basically grow themselves to death, it causes the plant to grow in all kinds of weird directions and shapes, it makes them curl.
If it is herbicide damage, then My vote goes into the 2-4D type of chemicals. Are there any farm fields next to you that might have gotten sprayed?
Another thing no one has mentioned yet is disease, I was scolded and scared by my dad and grandpa when getting advice "you never never never plant tomatoes in the same dirt year over year" they said. Eggplant, peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, and tobacco are all in the nightshade family. They will be vulnerable to the same sets of diseases.
Here is a link that might be useful: My Garden

Djole, I would have sworn when I bought the seed they said indeterminate. But after Dave said they were determinate I went back to the website and it said they were determinate. Maybe it is like Celebrity tomatoes. Depending who you ask or the website some say they are determinate and some say they are indeterminate. I know that used to be all my neighbor grew and his get up to around 7'-8' tall. It would be great if they turned out to be semi-determinate.
If not I am also growing some Delicious and Red Beefsteak up a string as part of the experiment also. Although I don't have as many of either of them.



We have the 2 gallon pots of grafted tomatoes here for $16.99, which I think is kind of dear. Perhaps in a few weeks they'll be reduced in price.
I wonder if the rootstock affects the flavour of the grafted tomato at all? And can you save seeds (or cuttings) for the grafted tomato if it's an heirloom...or will it become a Franken-mato?


Growing indoors is a huge job. There are so many variables to consider.
First, the water that comes out of the tap is chlorinated, and it has a good bit of flouride, depending on where you live. Chlorine will evaporate out of the water, if you leave the water in a pitcher open to the air for a day or so.
temperature and humidity are a big issue too, tomatoes like it warm, top production happens at 85 degrees, and they like some humidity. Also, for pollination, the plants need wind to shake the pollen loose in the flowers that they set, you can use a fan or give the plant a shake every day.

that is a picture of chlorine damage in my indoor grown tomato
Here is a link that might be useful: My Garden

Thanks all:
luvahydrangea, you brought up a very good point. I thought the point of mounding is to have the root ball above ground so it warm up faster. If you have mount and plant below ground level, then doesn't that make it even worse because now it takes even longer to warm up the root ball.
Johnny

I don't believe it needs to be above ground, just not too deep as the soil temperatures are cooler the deeper you go. What I usually do, is dig out a shallow trench, and lay the tomato plant on its side to bury as much of the stem as possible. Its below the surface, but only by about 3 inches which is close enough to the surface to warm up fast.

my Black Krim is doing the same thing! The blossoms just drop without any pollinating. All of my cherries, my better boy, celebrity, mariglobe, and several others all have developing fruit on them but none of the black krim. The weirdest part is that the BK plant has the most overall flowers. Last year this time the BK was packing on some serious weight with all the emerging tomatoes, but not this year. Im pretty frustrated.

I can't help but wonder that since the Black Krim is an heirloom and not a hybrid tomato, it's going to be a little more finicky when it comes to weather conditions? Heck, if I were going to "make" a new type of tomato, I'd want to engineer it to grow under less than ideal conditions.
I have to keep reminding myself that's not even June, and patience is in order.

Welll if they are determinate then you won't want to prune them at all. If they are indeterminate then you aren't required to prune them either. It is strictly optional. So either way, no pruning is necessary.
That said, the variety called Chinese Purple is listed as an indeterminate beefsteak variety on the two sources I checked. So it will require caging or staking and any pruning yes or no is your choice.
As to removing blooms, that too is optional. The plant will either set fruit with them if it is mature enough or drop them if it isn't so it makes no difference and most just let the plant decide. Shame to miss out on that first fruit if it isn't necessary. So it is up to you.
Dave

The old dilemma: grow a just a few big slicers or lots of medium maters :-) I always go round and round myself. The best solution I've come up with is to plant a few of each and let some make as many tomatoes as possible and try to get a whopper off one of the plants by picking as many of the blooms as I can stand to do.
Regardless of what you do with the blooms n fruits, I'd support and prune the plants.

Thanks All,
Yes Dave is right, it was direct sunlight.
Okey then, Gene, I dont have any idea about how to make compost tea? I now ppl suggest buy compost, soak in water for 3-4 days and brew it and then add to plants. but dont know where to buy that and what is the exact method.
Thanks.

I am making my first batch of compost tea as I write this. I found a ton of useful videos on youtube. I used a 30 gallon molasis tub recycled from a farmer friend. I also used about 30 feet of soaker hose, connected to a dual output air pump from a fish tank. I placed 3 bricks on the soaker hose that is coiled up on the botom of the 30 gallon bucket. I useda 5 gallon paint strainer bag that I purchased from sherwin williams. I filled it with about 2 gallons of compost I purchased in a bag from walmart, i also put about a gallon of compressed freshly picked weeds from my neighbors field. I picked some clover but mostly true tap root style weeds. My thinking on the weeds is that tap root weeds take up hard to reach trace minerals and well clover is a nitrogen fixer. So I figured the green plant material would be a fertilizer boost. I zip tied the compost weed mixture so no solids will fall out. I had filled the bucket the day before with tap water, adn I areated it for a few hours. that should hav egotten most of th emunicipal chlorine out. Now I place the tea bag in the water, adn it sank. i also added about a cup of molasis. It has been bubbling about 24 hours now. It has a nice faomy layer on top, adn the soaker hose allows bubbles all over the bucket so there are no dead spots void of O2.
My first batch is not finished yet, but it smells the way many describe, the color is very tea like, adn it has the soapy bubbles as it should. I would guess I have a very good first batch. I have 24 dollars invested in the pump equipment from amazon , the bucket was free. the compost was left over from some mothers day potting gifts, but cost about $3 for the bag which is still over half full after several pottings, adn this batch of tea.
aerated compost tea is quite inexpensive adn cheap to make. dont be afraid. But if you were local to me I would be happy to give you a gallon to try out.
I am thinking about selling it at the farmers market. I figure have a frsh batch ready on saturday morning, and tell people to use it up by Sunday. I have read it sells for $3 to $10 per gallon. Ill probably play with mine for this year. See how it works out. If I think it is the real deal offer it to others. I know compost tea is the real deal. i just dont know if mine is.

I sprinkled some garden tone around my tomato plants
What are the application instructions on the box? Usually sprinkling dry fertilizers around plants is just a waste of fertilizer and has little to no benefit for the plants.
Dave

Yes, the crack will scar over. Don't throw the fruit out unless it gets to the point where there's so much mold the fruit begins to rot.
Try to keep moisture consistent as that will prevent future cracking; it doesn't look like you've mulched the container; if not, that will help. You can use almost anything as mulch, including shredded office paper, plain newspaper, or even cardboard.

I'm trying Kellogg's Breakfast this year, but I've been growing Red Brandywine for a few years now. A very productive, tasty round red tomato. Tomatoes are fairly uniform with little cracking or splitting and have good taste. I haven't canned any of them before, but I'd assume that they'd make a good canning tomato as well.

as far as flavor, production
Trying talk about taste is near impossible since that all depends on your growing conditions and your personal taste buds. So all I can tell you is if I like the taste or not. Bonnie's Best the wife and I like, not spectacular or unique taste but good. And it is good for canning with a good level of production.
Red Brandywine also taste good to us but the production is low compared to many other varieties so few of them are left for canning.
Costoluto Genovese doesn't appeal at all to me. Don't like the heavy ribbing and the taste leaves a great deal to be desired. Personally I'd replace it since you still have season time to go.
I linked a previous discussion here about it below. You can find discussions about all of them with a search by variety name here.
If canning great tomatoes for winter use is your primary goal then there are much better varieties to choose from.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: costo. G discussion


It looks like I'll be the outlier. I band my tomatoes lightly with granular 10-10-10 about 2 weeks after they're in the ground, then again in about a month. You need to be careful to keep it off the plant itself. This has been very successful for me.
John A
Thanks for all the helpful responses here. One often does what one is used to doing. In this case I approached the tomato plants the way I do bulbs and some perennials, scratching in granular fertilizers in the top couple of inches of soil. But tomatoes aren't bulbs slowly storing nutrients for a bloom next year and I can see the advantage of relatively fast-acting liquid fertilizers. I'm not persuaded that granular fertilizers are wasted on tomatoes or of no benefit to them.