16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Yes I/ve saved seed from a fresh tomato , it became known as the variety Sara's Galapagos.
I removed no gel, I did nothing with those seeds and there was 100% germination.
No fermentation is needed nor any of the oxidative methods such as Oxiclean Comet, etc.
We already had a discussion here about the fact that while we know what fermentation can accomplish in terms ridding the seed exterior of pathogens, bad guys, and all the other plusses from fermentation, but while folks looked high and low there is no data to date to indicate the efficacy of the oxidative methods.
So go for it. Just take the seeds out, don't bother to take the gel off, b'c the purpose of the gel is to prevent seed germination when conditions are NOT favorable for germination, like over the winter from dropped fruits, and it's part of the larger life cycle of tomatoes, and nothing more. It's the germination inhibitor that the gel has that affords that protection, but you'd be sowing the seed under favorable conditions for germination.
Carolyn
I use ProMix for Containers for the soil.
Used the same watering method as the past seasons -- 48 ounces per bucket = 1 inch of water. Only watered twice, once at transplant and then about 4 days later. Weather's been a bit cool with some showers so the top 1 inch of soil was still moist. Drainage is same as last seasons.
Disappointing, especially when I dont know what not to do next time :(
Hi,
I agree with Dave. It sounds like damping off. You may have very well done exactly the same as previous years, but weather conditions can effect what happens. if it is cold and wet out and plants are newly transplanted so there is not much roots to the size of the container, the water is not going to dissipate quick enough and things can go wrong.
I learned this myself the hard way too.
Remy
Can't see any problems with using the Garden Soil with in ground planting, just creates problems in containers. It does suggest mixing it in well with the surrounding soil. Did you do that?
Given the problems most of the country had last year with the heat I'd be much more inclined to lay the blame on the weather then on the MG.
Dave
missingtheobvious, the MG I used was the "standard" type, not the moisture control. I made a mix of the MG, plus some bagged topsoil, and added the surrounding soil when I planted the tomatoes.
So far, from the replies I've seen in this thread, I'm thinking that it was just the horrible heat wave that did the plants in.
I'm hoping that we don't have a repeat performance of these conditions this year.
You've done the early part of hardening them off already! Midday sun is probably too strong for them at this point, but otherwise they could certainly be outside in shade or partial shade all day. [Now mind you, there's shade and shade. Bright shade is great, dappled shade is okay -- but if they're in deep shade, they'll probably become leggy.]
If they're outside all day, they shouldn't need any artificial light.
The important thing at this point is to introduce them to unshaded midday sun gradually. And keep in mind that the more sun they get, the sooner they'll need to be watered.
I've never read anything before this about holding off on water as part of the hardening-off process. And my attitude about my plants is ... well, I'll surely give them some stress of that type without having to plan it!
lol - I almost always end up stressing them w/too much love! Though the other day after turning on the grow lights and going back to sleep, by the time I woke up they were were pretty close to bone dry.
Typing w/dirty hands as I'm repotting as much as I can before my friend gets here (checking to see if she got the email about the need for party cups). While the Beaverlodge and Japanese Trifele toms didn't seem to be too rooty, now that I'm getting a look at the Yellow Pear and Stupice, they're definitely needing a pot up! So, hopefully that's going to be the solution. :-D
Don't give up!! If I were you, I'd try to save the seedlings but also get a couple of starts in case. I've noticed free tomato seedlings offered up on my local freecycle and craigslist, so you might be able to find someone who has extras.
Don't give up!
People at nursery's don't always know what's best for your particular situation. Anyone who suggested a FIFTEEN DOLLAR (?!!??!) bag of GARDEN SOIL for seedlings in containers should be fired.
Return the soil and ask for a potting soil mix. Dr. Earth has a potting soil - pot of gold - that will serve you well.
I have lots of extra starts! I have no idea how to mail them or I'd be happy to send them to you :). If you're near Raleigh, NC - come by and pick them up!
@ LoboGothic: "Hardening off the plants is going well, wind is the big problem. They're about halfway there. My question is about holding them back. I'm growing them for delivery in 3 1/2 weeks and don't want them to get much larger. I won't fertilize but wonder about keeping them at cooler temperatures, maybe give them less sun?"
Cooler temperatures will tend to make your tomatoes grow less. The wind will also make them stockier, provided they don't blown into the next province or get beaten to death by it.
Less light will tend to make them "leggy" so I don't suggest that at all.
Betsy
I read a post once on one of the Gardenweb forums by someone in the Arizona desert who planted Fourth of July hybrid for spring harvest, cut it back almost to the ground when the weather got brutal (for tomatoes) and let it re-grow for a fall crop. I think it may have been in afternoon shade. This is a very early little tomato, barely slicing size, on an indeterminate plant. Has some disease resistance.
Fourth of July has tough skin and sometimes splits, but in our climate, it can get very sweet when the weather starts to heat up enough to make many other varieties less-than-wonderful.
Almost impossible to say without at least a photo and much more info. Is this a container plant? How large a container? What variety is it? How old is it? Determinate or indeterminate? Is Edna's Best Potting Soil actual soil/dirt or is it a soil-less mix such as normally used in containers? If it is soil then that alone could be your problem. Fed it once? Container plants require regular weekly feedings. Water only when the soil is very dry but container plants require consistent soil moisture levels, not alternate wet and dry.
Leaf activity such as you describe is often a response to stress of some kind. What is causing the stress could be any of the above.
More info please.
Dave
Sketch info as Dave said. I don't want to second guess
(sort of) Dave's comments, but I'd suspect not enough
water. It's also the quickest and easiest to fix.
If you'd post a photo would be most helpful.
It might just only be wilted. I'd slop some water on it
(and wet the leaves too) and see what happens. If it's
what I suspect, you will see improvement in a few hours
or faster.
Apparently few here have used it.
I looked it up and it says it is 5 feet wide, right? So if you are growing determinates it could start at ground level, if indeterminates then raise it up a foot off the ground like those who use cattle panels do so you end up with 5-6 feet in height over all.
How close? As close as possible. Netting is going to be so flexible that support would be flimsy unless the plants are practically on top of it. Once they develop some size and have the weight of fruit on them it will sag a great deal unless you really have some good tension on it.
Dave
There is no documented correlation between not pruning and the incidence of BER. Indeed there is more evidence that the stress created by pruning can contribute to it.
This is not to say there is no effect, just that it may be nothing more than coincidence. Especially when one considers that commercial growers don't generally prune their plants either.
However the correlation between weather, the primary variable and beyond your control, and the incidence of BER is well documented.
Anecdotal info is that I too use Earthboxes and have for many years and I never prune. Yet some years I have early BER and some years I have none. So far this year has been quite BER-free but then we haven't had nearly the rainfall we had last year either when my BER was moderate to severe early in the season. And yes, it always goes away no matter what we do.
Some have a tendency to focus desperately on BER rather than just accepting it as a common factor in growing tomatoes. Just like hornworms and early blight. The hope is to ID the cause and thereby find the CURE when the 2 primary causes - plant immaturity and inconsistent spring weather - are beyond our control in the first place. :)
Dave
Conditions here in the north east have been TOTALLY different from last year. We've had a very mild, virtually snow free, extremely dry winter and spring. I'll bet Memorial Day will be as warm as the Fourth of July. I don't expect my plants to respond this year like they did last year.