16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes


Thanks, I did order tomato seed for Sungold already, but I will often purchase one or two plants at the local nursery, too. We love Sungold. Rarely makes it to the table, because everyone snacks on them in the garden. lol I will look for the OP varieties Ambrosia Gold and Big Sungold Select. Thanks. And thanks for the link.

Finally made it! I guess my popup blocker was tripping me up. Unusually cruel punishment PC. Supposed to be close to zero here this weekend. Still about a month away from starting seed. Sure looks good though. Congrats!
Formerly Whosurtomato

Welcome back Hoosier ... The bright tomatoes were just to spruce up GW's new home... These still cost $8/lb to grow with (my) unpaid labor. Get revenge in August when the only thing that grows here is the water bill. The growers in Central and South Florida leave me in the dust, Our climate has been like Hilton Head Island, SC this season, nothing like Orlando and Tampa :(
PC

Flora series Bloom is a very specific blend and designed for flowering plants... So, begonias or marigolds, but not veggies and fruit. While thoase plants flower, they do not need the high concentration to focus on JUST the flower...
I am actually experimenting right now with a full hydro gro using the Miracle grow tomato crystals. Couple of weeks into it and it seems to be going good, I am using it a about half strength (per recommended Ml/Gal) and only adding fresh nutrients every 7 days (weekly). The rest of the week, I keep that container filled by adding plain water...

I would use them for tomatoes:
4:2:1 (Gro:Micro:Bloom), and need hard water. The dilution you use depends on the drainage. Generally I would use it at 15 teaspoons combined in a full five gallon bucket and not water unless I were sure it wouldn't rain and they soil would hold it a while. So, a 5 gallon bucket would have 8:4:2 teaspoons (G:M:B). This is a very expensive fertilizer to use in this way!
Coconutisland, you will harm your plants if you are growing in a true hydroponic culture with an otherwise inert growing medium, such as a DWC and using MG as a substitution for your hydro nutes on a weight basis. If you use it in lower concentrations, the plants will have insufficient fertilizer and not thrive. MG is not a suitable hydroponic fertilizer, what it is, is a relatively economical soluble supplement used as recommended that gives excellent results.
PC
edit: noticed OP said SWCs and raised beds. The expensive comment is for raised beds. The mixture above is for the SWC on alternate waterings.
This post was edited by PupillaCharites on Sun, Feb 8, 15 at 12:49




Here's one old thread. I'd follow carolyn's suggestions.
Under decent storage conditions, 2001 would not seem too old for success.
I have found older seeds often take longer to germinate. Carolyn's suggestion to not give up even after waiting a month is a good one for a variety you value. I've waited that long and even longer and eventually ended up with sprouts and good plants.
Wishing you success with your less than ideal stored ones.
Here is a link that might be useful: Germinating old tomato seed

I have an article on this page that covers waking up old seed. It is the last article on the page.

You already seem to know the answer: i.e, indets continue fruiting all season, IF they are not diseased or neglected. The amount of yield would depend on several factors: (*) variety (**) climate (***) growing conditions. However, indets tend to produce more heavily earlier than later in the season, IMO.
On determinants: Some produce more than one flush. I have had some that fruited just like indets. They are Dets in growth habit but fruit like indets. I am getting into more Dets, as they require less space and are easier to maintain.
Seysonn

Hi, well ...size doesn't matter. They may be small but they pack a punch and are delicious and addictive ~ try Matt's Wild Cherry. A micro small one but you'll be eating half of what you pick along the way. Heavy producer. I went from growing one to four plants this year as everyone loved them too. Peace

Some people do use compost in containers, but it can severely interfere with drainage if it makes up more than 15-20 percent of your mix. It also is actually very low in nutrients and tomatoes require a lot of nutrients to grow well. How experienced are you with growing plants in containers? If you've had success growing a fast growing plant in a container of compost over a long, hot season, then you are an exception to the rule.
Container growing is very different from growing in the ground. I would encourage you to do some more reading in the Container forum. The link below goes to a thread that has run continuously since 2005. Hundreds of people have reported excellent results following this advice.
Here is a link that might be useful: Container Growing, water movement and retention

I am using a cheapo one gallon. It is enough for my needs. I don't spray more than 1/2 gallon fungicide at a time.
But for someone with over 100 plants I would suggest a professional grade 2 gallon, hand pumped, back pack. STIHL is name that pops up in my mind. I would avoid Black and Decker. I have had bad experience with its nozzle system.
Seysonn

+1 on the Solo. I've got a bunch of different sprayers and the one linked below is far and away my favorite (2L size). I especially like the fact that the end rotates so that you can easily spray on the underside of the leaves.
Here is a link that might be useful: Solo 420 2-Liter One-Hand Pressure Sprayer


Of course with meatier tomatoes you can get a bigger bang for the buck but any tomato that you like to slice, put in salad all are good. To get a thicker consistency fast, I mash them and dray the juice for drinking pleasure and soups and process the remainder.
Seysonn


