16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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moiraine_gw(5)

Hmmm... I think it was the smog then, if the soil wasn't too wet. The plant probably couldn't get to the CO2 it needed. If the smog is gone, it should fully recover.

    Bookmark     February 7, 2015 at 11:02AM
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Red_Na_Xela

Thanks :D

    Bookmark     February 8, 2015 at 4:27AM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

I ordered some this year, but it is still too early to start them here.

How did you start them? Did you have bottom heat?

I built a shelf over my water heater to start seeds I get really good germination with that setup.

    Bookmark     February 7, 2015 at 11:56AM
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PupillaCharites(FL 9a)

Hey Seysonn,

I'd be pretty sure saying it is Black Cherry or some selection derived from it, for the two easy to locate ones in the pic, big dark cherry tomatoes, on the upper left and bottom center of the pic.

PC

    Bookmark     February 4, 2015 at 4:47PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Thanks PC.

I was shopping @ Trader Joes today. They had the same kind of cherry mix and obviously, the black one. I bought a pack. I weighed the black/brown ones. They are 0.50 oz each.
So I've got the freshest seed to plant.

Seysonn

    Bookmark     February 4, 2015 at 9:11PM
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labradors_gw

Woo Hoo! Good news indeed! In less than 40 days, you should have ripe tomatoes :).

Linda

    Bookmark     February 4, 2015 at 4:08PM
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vinnybob(z8Oregon)

I have aerogarden too. You could try to detach the arm that holds the light and hang it higher. Bought LED light this year so no more height problems. I just use the Aerogarden for seedlings before the LED light gets them.

    Bookmark     February 4, 2015 at 5:27PM
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naturegirl_2007 5B SW Michigan(5B SW Michigan)

Here's one old thread. I'd follow carolyn's suggestions.

Under decent storage conditions, 2001 would not seem too old for success.

I have found older seeds often take longer to germinate. Carolyn's suggestion to not give up even after waiting a month is a good one for a variety you value. I've waited that long and even longer and eventually ended up with sprouts and good plants.

Wishing you success with your less than ideal stored ones.

Here is a link that might be useful: Germinating old tomato seed

    Bookmark     February 4, 2015 at 10:21AM
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fusion_power

I have an article on this page that covers waking up old seed. It is the last article on the page.

http://www.selectedplants.com/seedlings.htm

    Bookmark     February 4, 2015 at 11:30AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

You already seem to know the answer: i.e, indets continue fruiting all season, IF they are not diseased or neglected. The amount of yield would depend on several factors: (*) variety (**) climate (***) growing conditions. However, indets tend to produce more heavily earlier than later in the season, IMO.

On determinants: Some produce more than one flush. I have had some that fruited just like indets. They are Dets in growth habit but fruit like indets. I am getting into more Dets, as they require less space and are easier to maintain.

Seysonn

    Bookmark     February 4, 2015 at 8:30AM
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bobincentralMA

Hi, well ...size doesn't matter. They may be small but they pack a punch and are delicious and addictive ~ try Matt's Wild Cherry. A micro small one but you'll be eating half of what you pick along the way. Heavy producer. I went from growing one to four plants this year as everyone loved them too. Peace

    Bookmark     July 13, 2013 at 9:45PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

bump

    Bookmark     February 3, 2015 at 6:44PM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Some people do use compost in containers, but it can severely interfere with drainage if it makes up more than 15-20 percent of your mix. It also is actually very low in nutrients and tomatoes require a lot of nutrients to grow well. How experienced are you with growing plants in containers? If you've had success growing a fast growing plant in a container of compost over a long, hot season, then you are an exception to the rule.

Container growing is very different from growing in the ground. I would encourage you to do some more reading in the Container forum. The link below goes to a thread that has run continuously since 2005. Hundreds of people have reported excellent results following this advice.

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Growing, water movement and retention

    Bookmark     February 1, 2015 at 2:36PM
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zeligbass

Suddenly I'm reading about compost tea... I guess the whole fertilizing thing will keep me busy until the seeds arrive...

Thanks very much.

    Bookmark     February 3, 2015 at 5:50PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I am using a cheapo one gallon. It is enough for my needs. I don't spray more than 1/2 gallon fungicide at a time.
But for someone with over 100 plants I would suggest a professional grade 2 gallon, hand pumped, back pack. STIHL is name that pops up in my mind. I would avoid Black and Decker. I have had bad experience with its nozzle system.

Seysonn

    Bookmark     January 31, 2015 at 4:36AM
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smithmal

+1 on the Solo. I've got a bunch of different sprayers and the one linked below is far and away my favorite (2L size). I especially like the fact that the end rotates so that you can easily spray on the underside of the leaves.

Here is a link that might be useful: Solo 420 2-Liter One-Hand Pressure Sprayer

    Bookmark     February 3, 2015 at 1:55PM
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caryltoo Z7/SE PA

I use any and all tomatoes for canning. I do grow Amish paste because it's meaty, but I'll run any tomato through the strainer to make sauce, even cherries. So go with Dave's advice and grow for taste.

    Bookmark     February 3, 2015 at 9:41AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Of course with meatier tomatoes you can get a bigger bang for the buck but any tomato that you like to slice, put in salad all are good. To get a thicker consistency fast, I mash them and dray the juice for drinking pleasure and soups and process the remainder.

Seysonn

    Bookmark     February 3, 2015 at 12:32PM
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labradors_gw

aqueio,

I just noticed that your containers are dark, and probably absorbing heat!

Linda

    Bookmark     February 2, 2015 at 11:50AM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

The folks in the Hydroponic Forum may have more suggestions for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Hydroponic Forum

    Bookmark     February 3, 2015 at 12:03AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yeah I familiar with the study. But you can't read stuff into it - as the authors rightly point out.

The distinction I was making above - not too clearly apparently - is that folks and ad/marketing gurus (unfortunately for the average consumer) have then taken those studies to mean that just grafting, regardless of the soil condition or rootstock used, will increase production, etc. They can then hype and sell high priced grafted plants to the average home gardener who doesn't understand or need them.

The studies were done using infested soil for both grafted and non-grafted plants and using a specific rootstock. Their results do NOT claim otherwise nor do they support the many claims made by others that when grown in non-infested soil a grafted plant will out-produce a non grafted one. Nor do they claim that any rootstock will make a difference.

As for the table you link to - they are all soil borne diseases/pests and do not include any of the common tomato disease issues that affect the majority of the US tomato crops - Early Blight, Late Blight, Septoria, Anthracnose, Bacterial Spot and Speck, etc. etc. Grafting make no difference in those cases as the cause is primarily airborne and can kill a grafted plant just as easily as a non-grafted one.

Hope that clarifies.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 2, 2015 at 4:13PM
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PupillaCharites(FL 9a)

It was pointed out that you are reading the results into the study that you want. A one-minute read of the abstract:

"MaxifortâÂÂrootstock significantly increased yield in one location (P = 0.05), but âÂÂMaxifortâ andâÂÂRobustaâ rootstock did not consistently impact yield at the other two locations.".

Another word that is easy to miss in the abstract is "ORGANIC". All trials were organic and did not address conventional growing methods. Conventional might kick butt in all three trials. You don't know.

K.I.S. If you identify a clear problem after the experience of a season, it is time to look for a solution, but don't start running with the cart before the horse.

PC

This post was edited by PupillaCharites on Mon, Feb 2, 15 at 18:28

    Bookmark     February 2, 2015 at 6:25PM
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athenainwi

Thanks for the advice. I try not to tell my friends what to do with their tomatoes since I don't grow in containers myself. I'll include a determinate, probably Silvery Fir Tree since one of the local stores carries the Seed Saver Seeds and I like to support that. I've ordered a couple of dwarves from Heritage Tomato seeds too.

    Bookmark     February 1, 2015 at 8:31PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

If your season is short and not so warm (like ours here), also worth considering DTM. Though DTM is a ball park number but it has relative meaning.

So if you plant a large fruiting beefstaek with, say, DTM of 95 it might actually take longer than that.

Seysonn

    Bookmark     February 1, 2015 at 8:57PM
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bragu_DSM 5

It's good to see the successes, and not so successful things people have tried to grow over the years. It's fun to see folks add yet-another-variety to their yearly grow lists.
As always, YMMV: what works for some may be a challenge to others.

dave

    Bookmark     February 1, 2015 at 2:31PM
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Deeby

PeachGrove, your post of love and kindness has brought tears. God bless you and thank you for all that you do.

    Bookmark     February 1, 2015 at 4:35PM
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