16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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dssguy99

Actually I checked and Im in zone 7B. NOAA is predeicting temps in the lower 40s overnight for the next week or so... . I dont think that would kill them though.

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 1:23PM
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trudi_d

It's still a bit early to get those into the ground. Hold off at least two weeks. This is an oddball year for weather and it's not the norm. After five or six more years of this mildness then you could likely to be safe to get those maters into the ground in early April.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2012 at 8:37PM
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garf_gw

It's dead.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2012 at 11:23AM
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trudi_d

Chuck it. You have others, this scrawny one is not worth bringing into the garden. Sickly plants invite problems.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2012 at 7:29PM
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kevinitis(5)

Thanks for the comments. To help you understand what happened, I probably need to explain my green house. My green house is a pop up variety, called spring gardener gable greenhouse shown in the link below. I set my greenhouse up so that the windows on one side face directly west and the ones on the other side face directly east. So in the early morning and late afternoon the sunlight shines on the east and west facing walls of the greenhouse. If the windows are open (rolled up) the light penetrates directly onto the plants for a few hours in the morning or afternoon. The windows do have screens underneath that partially dims the sun when opened but not fully. Today, I opened the windows early in the morning and the sun probably was directly on the plants through the window on the east for a couple hours at most but it was still enough to cause some sun damage. Some of the plants came up four days ago when we had a snowstorm come through, and yesterday and today were their first real sunny days. So they just weren't ready for that direct sun after the storm. There must be something that happens physiologically when they first sprout that determines the amount of pigments they develope right off the bat. I just speculate that if you could provide them with the right sunlight intensity right as they sprout they would then not need as much tenderness when hardening off. And like I said it was not a lot of damage, just a little light coloration on some of the leaves that faced the sun. So its not a big deal, they will all be fine. It just reminds me how slow you have to take it hardening off tomatoes.

Here is a link that might be useful: Green house

    Bookmark     April 5, 2012 at 1:22AM
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kevinitis(5)

Incidentally, those tomato plants that sprouted a day or two before the storm, when conditions were sunny, did not suffer sun scald. Only those plants that sprouted during the storm had sun scald. This is anecdotal of course but of interest.

    Bookmark     April 5, 2012 at 12:11PM
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janezee(Sunset 5, 8b, Whidbey WA)

For bottom heat, see if you can find a string of old Christmas lights, or better, a rope light, and coil it under the tray. Cheap and easy.

Light above is harder. More is better, and on the floor is not really light. I know because I'm having the same issues. I know it's tough on a student budget, but using the window and the light would be better.

I've read about epsom salts for purple leaves. But yours don't look all that purple to me. There is so much information around. I'm sure you'll be fine. 8)

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 11:44PM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Since you're in a dorm, how about just taking the tray off the floor and letting it live in a higher place? The floor can be 5-10 degrees cooler than up near the ceiling. Also, it could be that your seed starting mix doesn't have much fertility, since often seedlings are moved into bigger and better environs once they are up and running. If you can't afford some plant food, maybe make friends with someone in the bio department, especailly their plant person, and maybe they will help you out. Or make a request for help from the homefront? Good luck!

    Bookmark     April 5, 2012 at 10:10AM
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kirchren

Check out the Winter Sowing forum for more info too. It's here on GardenWeb. Also, wintersown.org has a ton of useful information on creating your own mini-greenhouses. I start my tomatoes, herbs, and peppers like this every year now. That way, you don't have to worry about hardening off your seedlings. It's pretty amazing.

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 4:30PM
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jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)

You can also cut a 4 inch thin walled pvc pipe into 6 inch pieces and stick them around your plants. Then slide the soda bottle over the the plant and onto the pipe. It will give you a little more height, if needed. I use to do this before I started growing inside my high tunnels.

Jay

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 11:25PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Hi dirtguy50 and welcome. No upper 40s won't hurt them. I tend to cover them if we get down to 40 since I know it will be colder than that at ground level.

We had such a nice long run of upper 50 and 60 degree nights that I decided to jump the gun with a few test plants too. After the next couple of nights the long-term forecast looks good unless we get hail storms.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 10:38AM
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dirtguy50 SW MO z6a(6a)

Dave,
thanks for the help. The forcast is now saying 40 on Thurs night, so I may cover them that night at least.

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 3:54PM
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nitram0606

Does seeing spider mites require some sort of magnification? from my careful inspection I can't see anything movie, but I may just not be able to see them.

Anyone else have a suggestion if it is not mites?

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 7:01PM
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capoman(5a)

Mites are one of the smallest pests out there. Usually best to use one of those 20x or 30x magnifiers to see them really well. Another clue is that they prefer low humidity, and dry soil. If your humidity is high, it's likely something else.

    Bookmark     April 4, 2012 at 3:34PM
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ikea_gw

I already started some new seeds after washing everything in bleach solution. Had to toss out almost all of the opalka, eva purple ball and san marzano to prevent further spread of the problem but thankfully there still is time. I also sprayed the other seedlings with safer soap last night and so far they look good.

I believe I got the aphids from miracle grow soil mix. I always clean everything thoroughly before starting new seeds so I know it isn't anything from inside the house. Definitely won't go for that mix again.

So Dave you think it is the aphids? That is actually much better than what I expected. I was totally thinking that it was some kind of bacterial/fungal problem and I will be doomed this year.

    Bookmark     April 1, 2012 at 9:14PM
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ikea_gw

I contacted the local extension office and they said it could be: 1) ethylene damage 2) temperature fluctuation, 3) whitefly damage. I am pretty sure it isn't 3. I had bags of stuff ready for the compost bin near the seedlings and they were definitely decomposing quickly before I got them outside. Also had mangoes on the counter near them. So it is quite possible a freak ethylene damage.

I never heard of ethylene damage myself but evidently tomatoes are very sensitive.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2012 at 6:49PM
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capoman(5a)

Heat mat usually helps, but I think a controller is mandatory as most mats run way too hot without one. I have had no problem sprouting up to five year old seeds with regulated heat in a reasonable amount of time.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2012 at 10:47AM
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sue_ct(z6 CT)

Interesting. I assumed the larger plumper seeds had more stored nutrients and were probably more "mature" and more developed when they were harvested.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2012 at 1:51PM
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joysoup_gmail_com

This is the first time I've tried to grow tomatoes from seed, and it's difficult figuring out what could be wrong and how to fix it. Three different varieties have been under a grow light since sowing, and are now 8-12" tall ~ they've been transplanted into larger pots once.

Here's what's happening. Some curled leaves and some yellow leaves. There are a few that look just fine and strong; some that have 10% yellowing on leaves that look otherwise healthy; some that have 80% or more yellowing leaves (kind of striped with yellow, the plants look OK except for the yellowing); some that look good except for some curl in the newer, topmost leaves. Some leaves fell off of the yellow ones, or looked dead so I pinched 'em off.

I may have watered too much... and unfortunately, I also added fish emulsion (2 Tablespoons to 1 gallon of water) which, after reading this, appears to be way too much fertilizer for them.

So the next time I watered them, I made sure they were pretty dry and just used plain water and soaked them good. I've always avoided getting water on the leaves.

I also didn't have much air circulation going on, when they were under the grow lights. I also think the grow light may've been too close to the leaves. Additionally, they were really close together under that one grow light. After reading this, it occurred to me that they might need more room. I guess tomatoes need elbow room and fresh air, just like everything else :-)

Today I am setting them outside in a large cold frame, plenty of elbow room, and there's a light bulb installed (to keep it a bit warmer inside the cold frame).

The tomatoes don't look like a lost cause, yet. I'm hoping they will recover in their new environment. I'm praying they don't have a fungal disease.

Wish me luck... and oh, any comments or advice would be really appreciated.

Bigtomato ~ what does the epsom salts do?

    Bookmark     April 22, 2011 at 6:53PM
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elvimiller(5)

Thanks all for the helpful comments on here. My Roma's looked puny and yellow so i decided to search. i think I am over watering. All my other plants are nice, green and growing, including other tomato varieties, but the flat of Roma's is not doing much. I use recycled materials for my pots, but have drainage holes, etc. Anyhow, great advice. thanks!

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 9:25PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Have you checked out the FAQ here on How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed as well as all the how-to FAQs over on the Growing from Seed forum here? You'll find most of your answers in those plus much more info you didn't know to ask about. :)

But briefly, 1) plants out from under cover as soon as they sprout. Cover and any applied heat is for germination only. Strip off the netting and plant deeply burying all the stem to just below the first set of true leaves. Potting mix only. Never use garden dirt in containers of any kind.

2) Yes, deeply and you can snip off the lower leaves or just leave them it makes no difference.

3) They like consistent moisture levels. They do not like dry one day and soppy wet the next. Consistently lightly moist would be the best description.

4) Yes you will still need a cage or stake.

5) Most any variety should do fine. There are thousands of varieties so the choice is basically yours.

Dave

Growing from Seed FAQs

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Growing FAQs

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 4:32PM
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capoman(5a)

Yes, they like consistent moisture levels for sure. If the moisture varies, you get blossom end rot and splitting tomatoes.

Best way to maintain them in a hot dry climate is to amend the soil first with lots of compost and then top it off with several inches of mulch in a ring around the plant. This will help retain moisture and keep the roots cool when it gets real hot.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 4:48PM
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KendraSchmidt

Thanks elight, this is exactly what I was wondering. My containers are in liters, and I wasn't sure of how much each liter represented in cubic feet. This is great information to know, thank you!

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 12:28PM
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capoman(5a)

3.78 Liters (litres) per US Gallon.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 3:51PM
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dickiefickle(5B Dousman,Wi.)

Walmart ,Kmart,Lowes,Pamida,Home Depot, any type like these and your local nursery > In your area if they are not out yet they will be soon .
you also could grow from seed if you choose

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 2:55PM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

gm319, do you want to buy plants somewhere near you, have them shipped to you, or what?

First of all, ask at all the nearby garden centers.

Most of the big box stores (WM, Lowe's, Home Depot) stock tomato seedlings from Bonnie Plants. There will be a few heirlooms among them. [Our weather's been so warm that I bought a couple of Husky Cherry Red last month and planted them already.] Here's Bonnie's tomato page; I've only seen 15-20 varieties where I am, and some varieties are only shipped to certain regions.
http://bonnieplants.com/products/vegetables/tomato-varieties

Have you tried asking at your local GW forum?
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/vagard/

If you'd like to go to Raleigh, you can buy a wide selection of seedlings from Craig LeHouillier, who occasionally posts on this forum. I'm sure there's somewhere on his site that says exactly which market he sells from.
http://nctomatoman.weebly.com/from-the-vine---2012-plants.html

There used to be another NC member who sold tomatoes at a farmer's market in one of the metropolitan areas downstate, but I don't remember his user-name or where he is.

You can mail-order from Darrel Jones of Selected Plants and have them shipped to you; I've never bought from him, but he's highly spoken of (and posts here). I believe he also has a wide selection of varieties.
http://www.selectedplants.com/

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 2:57PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Honestly it sounds over-crowded to me. Plus since it is 6' wide you'll need an access path in there somewhere. Over-crowding can lead to all sorts of disease and pest problems.

But the two big problems that jump out at me are 1) squash bugs infesting the tomatoes and 2) all the vines climbing the tomato cages/stakes, either pulling them over or smothering the tomato plants.

Consider bush varieties of squash in a container away from the tomatoes and the pumpkins off one end where the vines can run out onto the yard rather than toward the tomato plants.

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 1, 2012 at 7:02PM
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athenainwi

I've grown a pumpkin vine through my tomatoes before. You do have to keep an eye on it so you can stop it from climbing the tomato plants, but I managed to keep mine pretty much on the ground between the cages.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 2:50PM
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ka9qlq

I had 1 Red Robin give 10, 1/2" and am growing more in 2 8" stacked strawberry pots. Great (one crop) tomatoes. I have gotten oodels of great tasting fruits off 2 Tiny Tom, and they just keep coming. When I trim the plant I stick it in a pot and most become a new tomato plant to give friends. I think I have 10 starts. Only bad thing is one tomato ripens pea size next almost 3/4". Makes no sense.
Alvin

    Bookmark     March 31, 2012 at 4:54PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

My red robins sat all winter with blooms that wouldn't open. But they were very healthy. I have one that is loaded with tomatoes now and some are starting to ripen. A fresh tom in April will be great!

The others are blooming and I planted them in the garden to see how they do outside of the pot.

I didn't get any toms over the winter as I had hoped, but it was nice to rub a leaf and get that fresh tomato smell on my fingers!

    Bookmark     April 2, 2012 at 1:04PM
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