16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Rathos, my experience with HTS has been great; they're one of the best. A number of seed suppliers will throw in a bonus packet, which is cool in a grab-bag sort of way. I haven't grown Manyel, but it's a popular variety, a lot of suppliers carry it. Here's the blurb on Manyel from Tatiana's tomatobase:
75-80 days, indet., regular leaf, good yield of 3" golden yellow globes, blemish-free, very good taste with a hint of citrus.
Let me try to clarify.
I was the person who introduced Manyel to others via my listing in the SSE YEarbook, Tania doesn't have that info there and I suppose I should give her the rest of the info as well, since I'm in contact with her all the time.
My seeds were from Joe Bratka many years ago and when he got them it was also said that the word Manyel meant many moons, but nowhere could that be verified and also of Native American heritage and nowhere could that be verified either.
Tania has two listings, one for Manyel and one for Many Moons which is not a separate variety, rather a wrongly suggested translation of the word Manyel. So those two pages should have the same information.
Hope that helps.
Carolyn, and no it isn't unusual for many seed sites to include a bonus pack. Even when packing up tomato seeds for my SSE requests I include a "gift" pack of seeds.
I like your idea, I have the same problem. I live in MN and started mine to early also. How did it work out for you? I think I may do the same but just do it with the solo cups because thats what mine are in right now. Thinking I can cut the bottom off and fill a new one with dirt then sink them together.
If you have a number of plastic 2-liter bottles or cardboard 1/2 gallon juice cartons, they're quite wide, if width is necessary. Cut the tops off, at whatever height you need. [And if more width isn't necessary, you can also use narrower plastic bottles.]
Thinking I can cut the bottom off and fill a new one with dirt then sink them together.
Leah, I'm not sure I understand your response. The point of using a taller container is that when you pot up, the current roots can be placed at the bottom of the new container. Snip off the lower leaves and add soil around the bottom few inches of the stem. Additional roots will grow from the currently-above-ground stem, resulting in a larger root system.
Tomatoes are virtually impossible to kill once they're going. Seriously, as long as you've got a couple inches of green, you can regrow the entire plant. If its got any roots left at all, it'll be fine in a few weeks.
Last year I had a windstorm that knocked one of my container tomatoes over, rolled it around, snapped half the thing in two. I just stuck the broken limbs in some dirt in a bucket, and not only did the limbs survive, they went on to bear fruit the same year. Heck, several of the limbs had tomatoes still on them and not only did they survive, not only did the tomatoes not wither up on them, but they were even GOOD tasting tomatoes at the end.
Basically, nothing short of weed killer or ripping it up by the roots and tossing it on hot asphalt will kill a tomato plant.
Yep - last year I started my plants to early. I ended up cutting off some of the laterals and top growth to keep them from getting to tall and spindly. I stuck the cuttings directly in pots of soil and most of them rooted up and turned into productive plants by the end of the summer.
If they can survive with no roots, they can certainly survive with "pruned" roots.
DM007, have a look at Sherry's photos in this thread: she's got the pale spots on the upper side of the leaves, with the dark fungus on the reverse side....
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg031540549962.html?24071
Hello All!
Thank you so much for your relpies!
ncrealestateguy,
I do flush with lots of clear water once per week.
robeb,
I've considered over fert as well, however, I would expect to see some symptoms in the other plants on the same schedule. It can't hurt to back off of this plant for a little while though, I'll give it a shot.
missingtheobvious,
I have been checking, still nothing, the undersides are mold free.
tennandy,
Do you have any recommendations, if it is a lockout of some kind?
Thanks again y'all!
PJ
Julie - Do you know that there are two kinds of Porter. The first one is often referred to as a cherry. INfact Bonnie Plants (re) named it a few years back and was selling the plants as Porters Dark Cherry. It is a pinkish color and a little bit oval. Porter improved is more round, and larger. Both were developed in TX and are notoriously good for heat. I am growing Tommy Toes this year too but it is the first time for me. Have heard good things about it, Linda
Hi Linda--Thanks for answering. The variety I grew last year was supposed to be the cherry type Porter. They were a good size for a single sandwich, but too big to eat in one bite. Those and Sioux were the only plants to produce much until it got cooler in the fall.
I think I will try the Tommy Toes this time, along with both of those varieties.
Have you looked into the Sunset Gardening zones? If that is your last frost date - same as mine is this far south - then you might very well be in a different zone pocket, a micro climate zone that you can use to your advantage. The Sunset zoning is much more thorough and detailed.
I have a great zone 7 pocket here because of the hills and the lake and it can make a big 2 week difference when compared to many of the other gardeners in this same area.
Dave
I'll keep my mouth shut about any such questions in the future.
*****
No need to do that and I didn't realize you were looking for feedback on what additional type of protection to use. Maybe my fault for not reading carefully enough? I don't know.
What I do know is that sharing information and asking questions is the best way to go, as you did, IMO.
Carolyn
Did a quick search and one listed thing was root knot nematodes. I don't know offhand if that is definitely your problem, but solarization of the soil seems to be an effective control of nematodes (one of the few) as well as other soil fungus etc.
this link has a good bit of information about nematodes and solarization.
Here is a link that might be useful: University of Florida nematode info
It most likely IS some sort of problems with your soil but only a professional soil test - available from your local county AG extension office for a few dollars - is going to solve the problem.
Is the leaves the only thing you are adding? If so and since they are almost pure carbon and acidic you could easily be nitrogen or micro-nutrient deficient or the pH could be out of whack. The leaf condition is a good indicator of that.
Nematodes as mentioned is another possibility but you would see the large node clusters on the roots when you pull up the plants.
then from the bottom up the leaves start to get brown and wilt.
Soil borne disease is another real possibility so you'll want to do some research into the common tomato plant diseases. Mass. has a great online university extension website for all sorts of gardening info.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: UMASS Ext. - Home Gardening resources
Honestly the ability to extensively rotate isn't all that important unless you have a serious disease problem.
Millions of home gardeners grow in the same garden bed year after year with no problems. Many have no choice. Good soil amending compensates for most problems.
Rathos - if nothing else consider adding some lime to your soil. Not too much. But a little can't hurt and sure could help. My native soil pH is so alkaline that I can't even breathe lime anywhere near it but you sure could with that pH. Just something to consider when you keep in mind that if the pH is actually that far out of whack it would make much difference how much fertigation you use. ;)
Dave
I can definitely taste the difference between an RRR tomato and a beefsteak. One has much more gel and seeds than the other.
And between a red tomato and a yellow or orange tomato, of course I can tell the difference blindfolded. Now between a red and a pink, maybe not. But between a red and a purple, yes also.
I'm sure I could tell differences in flavors/brix/tart apart ,I've become quite the tomato cork sniffer over time and document them each season.
I make notes of growing conditions ,taste test varieties side by side...ect.
but to be honest If I was blindfolded and someone asked me to name that tomato... I seriously doubt I could.
the closest I could get might be .."that tomato has a potato-leaf Brandywine hint to it" or "this tomato has a zippy green zebra flavor" ...lol
and to be honest.... they change season after season anyway.
According to the "All New Square Foot Gardening" book, that will work fine. They use even shallower boxes.
I used 6" deep beds, and got wonderful tomatoes, very productive, from mine. I didn't grow in above ground closed beds, but I can tell you that the roots will grow laterally if they can't grow down, (mine did) and they stood up just fine. I was amazed at the root system when I pulled them in the fall. I used nearly 100% mushroom compost.
I'm building a couple of beds for my mom like yours for a Sun Sugar and a few short determinate tomatoes, Ida Gold, Whippersnapper, and Tumbler. I know she will have to water daily, and I'll add Azomite and Tomato-Tone when planting. I'll add some vermiculite to hers for water retention.
Don't let anyone who hasn't tried it tell you not to try. ;-) It has worked out for others. Keep reading on the net and in books. Good luck and good weather!
I have no problems growing tomatoes in raised beds either.
the big problem I have is trying to grow the tomatoes in the SAME raised beds every year... I grow them In big pots now because the soil in the beds are now infested with wilt from growing the same family of plants every year.
I tried a couple last year just to try and .. they died in the middle of the season while the ones in my big containers grew wonderful !
this year I'll be solarizing the beds ..although other plant familys did just fine
I am now a firm believer in crop rotation and not building any spot specifically for one type of plant every year
No reason you couldn't use them just like any other trellising material for anything that climbs. But IMO they are way too expensive to use - even for tomatoes - so I sure wouldn't want to waste them on beans or peas or cukes when there are so many less expensive, and likely better, alternatives available.
Dave
Branches, leaves or fruit touching the soil are more susepteble to soil contamination diseases. Many of those diseases, once on the lower leaves can grow and more quickly spread up the plant. Plant stems can still be infected but they are less likely because of many factors: surface hairs, available plant sugars, faster drying, etc. You could pinch off leaves but clipping creates a lesser wound.
In addition to what others have shared here ... your plants look great! At 5 weeks and with the bits of yellow, you may want to fertilize very, very lightly. This link may help as your re-pot.
Here is a link that might be useful: Re-potting tomato seedlings
Thank you Dave. Thats what I needed to know.
By the way...
The plants are all being grown to be planted outdoors. They have gotten a little big though. Lots of overlapping leaves. When I water the humidity gets pretty high overnight. Temps are in the mid 80's, sometimes higher. They are being grown under one 400 watt HPS and one 400 watt MH. The plants are roughly two foot tall.
Sounds like you to need to put on some fans. Get the air - especially if it is that hot - really moving well in among and around the plants and cool it down some at the same time.
Dave