16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Raybo, so did you keep those 12 bags and used them? what was your result? Not sure what you paid but if I get the new stuff for around $6/ea bag delivered to me, I think its much cheaper than what most sites are selling for.

What are other choices if I end up with Tomato-Tome 3-3-6? I used Perfectly Natural that had 6-6-6 last year and got decent results. But that bag costs between $10-$15 plus shipping.

Even if it is likely the new TomatoTone, at $6.00 per bag delivered, I would definitely keep them. I still have several 5 pound bags of the Old TomatoTone left, so I simply blend one bag of the Old, and one bag of the New together. I think I get the mutual benefits of both doing it this way. I should be good for the next 5 to 7 years doing this.

Raybo

But it is almost impossible for the average home gardener to control enough of all the variables to insure that their seed is significantly modified by their growing conditions...I think that it is scientifically incorrect to maintain that plants (themselves) "adapt" to their environment. Rather it is the random genetic modifications of their seeds that cause subsequent offspring to be different from their parents. Depending upon how the modified generation fares in its (similar) environment, it may be more favorably, similarly favorably or less favorably disposed to thrive compared to such abilities of its parents. For example, trying to develop a cold-tolerant tom plant by growing a tom cult in northern Canada will not promote the development of cold tolerant offspring any more than growing the same thing in central Mexico. BUT, upon the growing out of several generations in a cold environment, the phenotypes whose seed has be modified by RANDOM changes such that it is more tolerant of cold weather will perform better in a colder environment... likewise those modified such that they are less tolerant of cold weather than their parents will not perform as well as their parents.

Reggie

Yeah I think that is what I said. ;)

Dave

The blue related varieties that Tom is offering are quite different from the standard OSU and P20 straight ones and there are lots of folks interested in them, so much so that the latest batch Tom put up sold out in less than a day but then were restocked. At first Tom didn't say that what he was selling was not stable, but then corrected his website to indicate that.

There are many who love to do large growouts, those that have room to do so, to see what kind of selections they can make and work with.

As you know, this thread should have gone to the Seed Exchange Forum and I'd like to post one of the rules over there which certainly applies here as well and it has to do with your offering to sell seeds. And might be of interest to others as well.

(This forum is for the purpose of exchanging material, there should be no need to mention money in any postings. If money is mentioned, the posting will be considered an advertisement and the poster will be banned.)

Carolyn

oops! didnt know that, will make sure not to mention money hereon.

SSE catalog says Beam's Yellow Pear won out over 24 other Yellow Pear varieties when they did a comparison in 1998. They may have been rating other qualities besides taste, although they say it has great flavor. That's just what I read; haven't tried it yet.

I grew Medovaya Kaplya this past summer with outstanding results. Large, healthy plant that was the last to die (out of 18 other varieties). Looks just like yellow pear, at least close enough for the novelty factor.
The biggest surprise was the flavor. Absolutely outstanding! The yields was also fantastic. This will definitely be a mainstay in my future plantings (Along side my Brandy Sweets, Those were pretty good too).
I cannot find any faults with these tomatoes and I am absolutely positive that they will replace Yellow Pear.

I would have to add Juliet to the list of long keeper types of tomatoes. They are just amazing.

I have grown Yellow Out Red In from Sandhill. They lasted until the next season's tomatoes started coming in. Again, flavor isn't great, about "grocery store" level, but much cheaper to save your own than buying at the store in February! Plus they are really cool--yellow skins, but when you slice them they look like they are bleeding!

Googling it, many sites have photos that don't really look like mine did, theirs just look red out red in--this site has the photo closest to the yellow mine were.

Carla in Sac

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.localharvest.org/tomato-seeds-yellow-out-red-in-C12335

I should move to phoenix. Unlike hellbound, my toms, though all alive, are not really producing much fruits nowadays given our night time temperatures sometimes drop below zero. Thus the delima.

Wow three years, Ken! And more harvest, Edymnion! Come to think of it, I did have some peppers from over 5 years ago and they're producing just fine every year. I am even more encouraged to save a few plants this year. I've never had so many toms looking so well in January. If I want to try, this year is better than any to keep the tomato plants for two years. Let me see which ones I'll pick and hopefully I will be around this summer to babysit them and update everyone.

What is funny is that among several plants from 2011 some has died while others are now thriving and putting fruit now. It could be specific seed has better genes or conditions better at that particular location or better root development for these vs the ones that either died or are barely hanging on to life. Although are are in same 70' long raised planter. I am confident that these healthy plants will produce well into 2nd season as roots and plant structure is quite strong. Like one poster above said, heirlooms take a while to get going so the ones that I have were pruned down to 12" last fall and are now very healthy. I will report how these fair this year around Mar-Apr

Hey, natal. I wonder if you and I should exchange your Cherokee for my Black Krim. It would really be interesting to see if the same seed worked differently one state apart.

Donna, I don't save seed. I buy it every year from TGS and Johnny's.

For your area of New Jersey, plants should go in the ground around the 10th of May and no later than the 25th of May.

Hot peppers take about 3 weeks longer to grow than sweet bell peppers. They need 10 to 12 weeks to reach a size to go outdoors. Bell Peppers generally require 8 to 10 weeks to reach the same size. Tomatoes need 6 to 8 weeks.

To put dates on that, given a May 10th frost free date, you would start the hot peppers about 15th of February, sweet peppers about the 1st of March, and tomatoes about the 15th of March. You can vary by a week either way with no major difference.

You will need a good light as mentioned above to start seedlings.

DarJones

Listen to the experts here and dont start the tomatoes to early. Last year, I "just couldnt wait", and I regretted it. Remember that as they grow you will have to pot them up. 20 4"-6" pots dont take up a lot of room, but do you have enough good grow light space for 20, 1 gallon pots? Go ahead with peppers and eggplants they are much slower.

we have weird weather these days and for tomato plants to even survive is a great deal. My plants are thriving and putting fruit from last year plantings. go figure.

Curling is normally sign of distress, too much or too little water is first cause.

Little Birdie,

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I hope that helps.

Betsy

I'm facing a different conundrum. One of my tomato plants died when it got cold in November, but another one has starting to grow again. It's full of blossoms (that won't set fruit because it's still cold at night). I planned to rotate crops and grow beans in its place in the spring. Should I pull it out or let it be? It's about 5 feet tall.

Here is a link that might be useful: What's Growing On?

I'm not too far from Riverside (zone or distance-wise). I plant out every year around St Patrick's Day (March 17), which is easier to remember than last frost date. There is no advantage to seed starting or planting sooner. If you back schedule 4-6 weeks, seed starting is done around the first week of February. There is plenty of flexibility -- so there is no need to panic if you start running a little late.

Vance, what a great looking plant! Glad you were able to rescue it. I haven't had a problem with cut worms going after my tomato plants, but had a terrible time with them last year. They ruined cucumber, bean, watermelon & cantaloupe plants. This year I've been using the straw collars shown above. No problems!

Happy gardening!
Boo

Most of the posts here address cutworms at the base of the plant.
I also have them further up the plant and they are hard as the devil to see. Anyone else have this problem?

I've had pink and a burgundy/crimson brandywine. They look different than the usual orangy toms and both taste all right. I'm still using the seeds ordered online years ago so I don't remember their names. Is it what NEveg called black bw? Maybe someone more familiar with brandywine can help.

I would recommend Gold Medal. It has a sweet flavor and a very creamy texture. The fruits are large and the productivity has always been good for me.