16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

I should move to phoenix. Unlike hellbound, my toms, though all alive, are not really producing much fruits nowadays given our night time temperatures sometimes drop below zero. Thus the delima.

Wow three years, Ken! And more harvest, Edymnion! Come to think of it, I did have some peppers from over 5 years ago and they're producing just fine every year. I am even more encouraged to save a few plants this year. I've never had so many toms looking so well in January. If I want to try, this year is better than any to keep the tomato plants for two years. Let me see which ones I'll pick and hopefully I will be around this summer to babysit them and update everyone.

What is funny is that among several plants from 2011 some has died while others are now thriving and putting fruit now. It could be specific seed has better genes or conditions better at that particular location or better root development for these vs the ones that either died or are barely hanging on to life. Although are are in same 70' long raised planter. I am confident that these healthy plants will produce well into 2nd season as roots and plant structure is quite strong. Like one poster above said, heirlooms take a while to get going so the ones that I have were pruned down to 12" last fall and are now very healthy. I will report how these fair this year around Mar-Apr

Hey, natal. I wonder if you and I should exchange your Cherokee for my Black Krim. It would really be interesting to see if the same seed worked differently one state apart.

Donna, I don't save seed. I buy it every year from TGS and Johnny's.

For your area of New Jersey, plants should go in the ground around the 10th of May and no later than the 25th of May.

Hot peppers take about 3 weeks longer to grow than sweet bell peppers. They need 10 to 12 weeks to reach a size to go outdoors. Bell Peppers generally require 8 to 10 weeks to reach the same size. Tomatoes need 6 to 8 weeks.

To put dates on that, given a May 10th frost free date, you would start the hot peppers about 15th of February, sweet peppers about the 1st of March, and tomatoes about the 15th of March. You can vary by a week either way with no major difference.

You will need a good light as mentioned above to start seedlings.

DarJones

Listen to the experts here and dont start the tomatoes to early. Last year, I "just couldnt wait", and I regretted it. Remember that as they grow you will have to pot them up. 20 4"-6" pots dont take up a lot of room, but do you have enough good grow light space for 20, 1 gallon pots? Go ahead with peppers and eggplants they are much slower.

we have weird weather these days and for tomato plants to even survive is a great deal. My plants are thriving and putting fruit from last year plantings. go figure.

Curling is normally sign of distress, too much or too little water is first cause.

Little Birdie,

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I hope that helps.

Betsy

I'm facing a different conundrum. One of my tomato plants died when it got cold in November, but another one has starting to grow again. It's full of blossoms (that won't set fruit because it's still cold at night). I planned to rotate crops and grow beans in its place in the spring. Should I pull it out or let it be? It's about 5 feet tall.

Here is a link that might be useful: What's Growing On?

I'm not too far from Riverside (zone or distance-wise). I plant out every year around St Patrick's Day (March 17), which is easier to remember than last frost date. There is no advantage to seed starting or planting sooner. If you back schedule 4-6 weeks, seed starting is done around the first week of February. There is plenty of flexibility -- so there is no need to panic if you start running a little late.

Vance, what a great looking plant! Glad you were able to rescue it. I haven't had a problem with cut worms going after my tomato plants, but had a terrible time with them last year. They ruined cucumber, bean, watermelon & cantaloupe plants. This year I've been using the straw collars shown above. No problems!

Happy gardening!
Boo

Most of the posts here address cutworms at the base of the plant.
I also have them further up the plant and they are hard as the devil to see. Anyone else have this problem?

I've had pink and a burgundy/crimson brandywine. They look different than the usual orangy toms and both taste all right. I'm still using the seeds ordered online years ago so I don't remember their names. Is it what NEveg called black bw? Maybe someone more familiar with brandywine can help.

I would recommend Gold Medal. It has a sweet flavor and a very creamy texture. The fruits are large and the productivity has always been good for me.

tomatoes on my plants from 2011 season are thriving and putting new fruit here in Riverside County. Even if we get back to Dec temperatures, I dont think I am going to lose these plants to freeze as days are now warmer and longer than in Dec. I am confused over new seeding though now knowing when to start.

Tomatoes take 6-7 weeks,if you think March is warm enough in your area you can begin to seed them now.If you can protect them and have lights you can begin since Dec,that's what I did.I have my first batch 4 inches now and started seeding more this week.

All organic amendments used.....

That's really awesome! I'm glad to know they weren't supercharged via unnatural means. Keep up the good work!

According to aggrand's liturature lime at a 300 mesh size is immediately available to plants. If you have s silk screen operation near you you may be able to get them to give or sell cheap a used screen. Metal screens are fairly cheap on eBay. Get a screen and fast acting lime screen out the big stuff and dilute you can heat to increase the amount in soulition let cool and spray. Also liquid ca like nutri-cal are not expensive. It can't hurt to set up a regular routine of calcium supplimentation. Most fast acting lime screens to 200 mesh there is still a good amount of smaller particals in there. I figure the larger the volume of lime per bag the smaller the particals. Try gypsum do some dumpster diving at your local home center or construction site soak the paper off and spread evenly

According to aggrand's liturature lime at a 300 mesh size is immediately available to plants. If you have s silk screen operation near you you may be able to get them to give or sell cheap a used screen. Metal screens are fairly cheap on eBay. Get a screen and fast acting lime screen out the big stuff and dilute you can heat to increase the amount in soulition let cool and spray. Also liquid ca like nutri-cal are not expensive. It can't hurt to set up a regular routine of calcium supplimentation. Most fast acting lime screens to 200 mesh there is still a good amount of smaller particals in there. I figure the larger the volume of lime per bag the smaller the particals. Try gypsum do some dumpster diving at your local home center or construction site soak the paper off and spread evenly

How do you tell ??

Don't worry about it. What are called suckers shouldn't be removed anyway unless you are really into pruning for some reason. All it does is cost you fruit production.

But a "bloom" is a flower, a blossom that with luck turns into a tomato. Not a leaf or a branch or a stem. A bloom truss (a cluster of blooms) develops directly off a stem, not in the apex of 2 stems.

Dave

Thanks guys appreciate the info. Evidently I was going by "old" information. Good gardening.