16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes


I have some staple varieties that I know I will be growing but always try a couple new ones...Bought some tom seeds from Diane's Seeds this year for the first time. So no clue as to their viability and true-to-type parameters (I would think that C Male could provide sound insight in those regards). Anyhow, Diane has a good selection and seeds as well as seeds of some unusual tom cults. Also, the blurbs applied to the tomatoes' descriptions mercifully do not exude a hyperbolic measure of each varieties' virtues, as the cats of some do.
Reggie
Here is a link that might be useful: Diane Lindsey

Here's the tomatoes that I've not grown before but are have piqued my interest. If anyone is familiar with any of these varieties and would recommend I try, I'd appreciate. These varieties are listed in the Tomato Growers Supply Company 2012 catalog:
Early Season varieties- Fireworks, Gregori's altai, Kimberly, Matina
Middle Season varieties- Big Raspberry, Brandywine Red,Costoluto Genovese, Holland, Kewalo, Pink Ping Pong, Wisconsin 55
Late Season varieties- German Giant, Arkansas Traveler, Aunt Ginny's Purple, Sudduth's Strain, Italian Sweet, Mortgage lifter, Pink Ponderosa
In terms of Cherry's here's some varieties that I found interesting:
Supersweet 100, Sungold, Sweet Million, Isis Candy, Black Cherry
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Growers Supply Company


I personally like the black prince tomatoes. might run a little smaller then what your asking for (2-3oz-ish). Very pretty and unique tasting tomatoes. Not very pretty in salsa though, my mother remarked that it looked like baby vomit after i blended a few.


Is it worth using a desiccant in a seed container to reduce the RH... or is it a rather worthless endeavor at best and a possible seed viability terminator at worst ?
Lots of info and a FAQ on this over on the Seed Saving forum but basically it's your choice. Can't hurt - might help.
The goal as Darrel said is 55% or less. This time of year RH is normally much lower than that anyway.
Personally I store mine in paper envelopes organized in plastic totes in an old fridge in the basement. But that is more convenience for me than anything else.
Dave

I've saved seeds that I've processed at ambient temps and humidity for well over 20 years now and never did anything about controlling the humidity or temps. Those seeds at even 5 years old will usually have germination above 50% except for most hearts whose seeds that I and others have found have seeds that don't remain viable as long others.
Admittedly I live in upstate NY and the summers can be very humid and hot, but for far lesser times than those in the deep south have. So that's another condsideration
I have too many seeds to store in the fridge so many of them are in vials in 100 place scintillation boxes and others are in non-sealed envelopes large envelopes and a few in used pill bottles.
If I were going to freeze them I'd use silica gel to get the humidity down to between 6-8%. And that would be at normal home freezer temps of about 0 degrees F.
For even longer term storage many places have -20 and -80 F freezers but that would be for very long storage. USDA does that for many of their tomato seeds at Fort Collins, CO, which is the backup for the Geneva NY, USDA station that I know.
Carolyn


Here in Colorado we have to water regularly. One time I built an array of sprinklers about waist high that covered the whole garden, Boy, was that the absolute wrong thing. But I learned.
My best is drip, but I modified it a bit by using the largest dripers I can find so they don't plug up. Since they are large, I time the application. Like 30 minutes to put on 1 gal of water to each plant. I think my best was with 2 dripers to each plant, one on each side, spaced about a foot apart. Plants were about 3 foot apart. Can I call it a "dribble" system?

Sometimes the problem is not disease, but instead yourself or a neighbor (and the neighbor does not have to be directly next door) having one of those yard services spray to kill off the weeds and dandylines. The stuff is lethal on tomatoes!
If the wind wafts it into your garden it's all over. I have not had this happen but one of my good friends did.

I am not convinced that being able to diagnose the specific disease is that important. There are many possible tomato diseases, but only a few ways to treat them. The most important thing is to try to prevent them in the first place. You do that by first ensuring that your soil is appropriate for tomatoes: with good fertility, the right pH, good drainage and weed free. Next you need to use a fungicide soon after planting out to protect against the rain and airborne fungi that are the maincause of disease. Many people use Daconil. If you prefer organic methods, neem oil offers some protection against fungus and also kills most of the insects that attack tomatoes. They are another source of disease. If you are vigilant about preventing fungal and insect attacks and treating them if they occur anyway, you can minimize the damage.


I've thought about straw-bales, but don't have the money or the ability to transport them ($4 a bale is the best I've found around here).
I planted two reusable grocery bags with greens today and put them in the barn, elevated. I'm wondering if the elevation is going to make the dirt too cold, or if it matters. They are the fabric kind that's not cotton. I imagine the regular plastic ones would fall apart pretty quickly since I can rarely manage to get them into the house without breaking half the time!
I may look into doing a few grow pots - I did see them for pretty good prices on eBay. Definitely worth a look. I just figured if I could do it with an $.89 bag, all the better! Will report back with my findings as things progress.

Do you add the citric acid, red food coloring, and sugar to your home canned ones like the commercial canners do?
If that is the taste you prefer (most folks prefer the fresh grown flavor over any canned variety) then you'll need to add those ingredients no matter what variety you grow.
Also keep in mind that variety isn't the only variable that controls taste/flavor. Growing conditions provided, nutrient levels, watering regimen, and soil pH are just a few of the many variables that dictate taste just as much if not more than variety.
Dave

I add lemon juice to bring the acid level up to where it is safe to can, but never thought of sugar and food coloring. Maybe ill just try some black krims this year to darken the color up, the sauce we have been making almost looks like a vodka sauce.

But you can put it in cake.
Here is a link that might be useful: My Mom made this often, yumyum, slurp slurp.

I just used my green tomatoes to make a green tomato pie using this Food Network recipe from Paula Deen. It tastes almost like an apple pie--delicious!!!

I know it's late but had to tell you. I used up some green tomatoes this year making jam! I found the recipe on the internet. It has three ingredients - 2 cups green tomatoes (liquified in food processor), jello (I used raspberry) and 1 or 2 cups sugar. You have to boil it for just a little while, then I refrigerated it. It was terrific on toast! Next year I am going to try other jello flavors and also add some hot peppers. It will make great gifts next year.

Common question here. Linked jusr a few of the discussions below.
Earliest Determinate Tomatoes?
Choosing Early Tomato varieties?
Recommendations for early tomato varieties
I'm concerned about heirlooms, because don't they have a reputation for being finicky and more disease prone, and their yields aren't as heavy with harvesting? Or, is this just a myth?
Mostly myth. Just as with hybrids there are some with all those characteristics and some with none.
Most early varieties are not noted for flavor. Their advantage is that they are early, not tasty.
Dave

These are Heirlooms
Matina... Ind. 58 DTM 2-4 oz. Very Tasty
New Big Dwarf... Det. 60 DTM 8-12 oz Tasty 2 ft tall plants
Kimberly... IND 54 DTM 1-2 oz fruit Compact Plant sets well in cool weather
Hybrids:
Jetsetter IND 64 Dtm 8 oz
bETTER bUSH ind 68 dtm 8oz 4 FOOT TAL LCOMPACT PLANT VFN

We grew Matina last year, and it was very early, but for us it was small, kind of sour, full of jell and had a thick skin. I can't really recommend that one... then again, I got my seeds from trade so maybe it wasn't the true variety. I really do want to try Sophie's Choice some day, a lot of people have recommended it.


They tend to do best flavorwise when the night time temps are higher. Also, being up north, growing them in the summer (when the light quality and duration is different).
I prefer Sakata's precursor variety 'Sweet Quartz" but 'Sweet Hearts' has added firmness to reduce bursting (they burst which is technically different than cracking). This made it more attractive to a larger seed market.