16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Thanks a lot Linda, I am taking notes to try and remember to do next yr.
Tammy

I would agree then that lack of nutrients is the primary problem but would still recommend a soil test to check the pH. They are available from your local county AG extension office for $10-15.

As I mentioned manure, while good for the soil and does provide a small amount of nutrients, isn't enough. And the nutrients in the potting mix are minimal and quickly used up despite what the manufacturer claims.

Tomatoes require regular feedings throughout the growing season - approximately 4-6 weeks apart. What fertilizer you use is your choice. I agree that Tomato Tone is good but so are many others. Organic brands are great IF your soil has been well amended first with lots of compost to boost the soil bacterial levels but an intermittent dose of a non-organic can also be of great help.

Many will amend the planting holes well at planting time, feed again just after first fruit set, and then feed again monthly after that. Others prefer to feed a diluted 1/2 strength dose weekly when the water. Either works but the point is to do it regularly.

Dave

Early girl is a nationwide favorite for many reasons, it seems. This summer she was the -only- tomato that produced for me before the first week of November....

Other small fruited early varieties seem to hold on producing longer every year for me also. 4th of July, an earlier producer than Early Girl, is often my first and last producer. I'm still picking substantial amounts of cherry varieties in my high tunnels that I started harvesting from in late May (transplanted mid-March). Other varieties might have a tomato here and there.

The reason might just be in the ability of these small fruited varieties to set fruit in cooler ambient temperatures. Also the disease resistance is often superior in the small fruited varieties.

Taryn, all tomato seed wants and offers should be posted in the Seed Echange, and that link is at the top of this page just above where the first thread starts.

Spike, the former owner of GW set up that tomato seed exchange many years ago so that seed wants and offers and trades wouldn't be posted in this main Forum.

So, just a gentle suggestion from one who has been a GW member for many years and has seen what happens when seed stuff gets posted here.

It might interest you and others to know that originally all the tomato stuff was in the Vegetable Forum and when it got to the point that tomatoes took up most of the space on that Forum, this one was formed.

Carolyn, who suggests that you might post in this thread, after you've cut and pasted your offer list to the Exchange Forum, that folks might want to go there to participate.

And I didn't take the time right now to go look and see if you already did post there b/c if I do now I lose this post and I don't want to do that. ( smile)

I would be interested in your better bush, You need to set up
your e-mail.

"Watering 2-3 times a week" can still be too much if the plants don't need it. The soil moisture content determines when the plant needs water, not any set schedule. If the soil down at the root level is kept too wet then the roots rot and the leaves turn yellow. Learn to stick your fingers deep into the soil to check for moisture before watering.

And every time you water the nutrients wash out of the container with the water. Container plants need regular and consistent feedings to replace the lost nutrients. Spikes aren't going to provide that for long.

Organic fertilizers only work if there is enough soil bacteria to convert them to a useable form for the plant. In containers filled with sterile potting mix there is little if any soil bacteria.

Dave

Hello again Dave.
I think your right about over-watering. I just went out and looked at my plants again and the romas, which are in a plastic container, are a lot more yellow than the yellow pears which are in a ceramic pot. Basically when I planted them, I looked on CA Tomato growers website which said that once a tomato plant has fruit on it, it likes a little water every day (which seemed like a lot to me) but I was waiting until top soil felt dry to water (hence 2-3 times a week). Apparently I need to feel farther down into the soil. And the spikes claim to work for 6-8 weeks but they may be over estimating? Thanks for the advice! I've never had a green thumb but I'm trying. So I'll try less watering and more plant food :)

I'm with you on the Juliet's hellbound. I grew them in full Arizona sun in Mesa and they never stopped producing. I've grown Yellow Pear and did not care for the flavor. I have done a lot of study this season and found a lot of people that agree with you who have grown in our kind of heat. Most of the Heat Set, Heat Tolerant varieties do not work. However cherry tomatoes do so I have been looking for large cherry tomatoes. In the process I found some 4-6oz varieties that some people have reported good success in states like Florida, Texas and a few other states that have a few hot months. These strains also have a good reputation for producing good looking marketable tomatoes. With any luck one or two of them will work out.

vgary, just wanted to say thanks again. I have also added Tropic from your list.

I also purchased Jaune Flamme AKA Flamme. I think I'm done for now.

My grow list for 2012

Tried and true...
Juliet
Sungold

Going to trial...
Sweet Million
Eva Purple Ball
Federle
Thessaloniki
Porter's Pride
Super Sioux
Jaune Flamme
Tropic

I really only have room for six varieties in the ground so I may not get to all of them this season.

One of the top varieties in the tests was Phoenix.
Phoenix is a medium-maturing variety that produces good yields of large and extra-large fruit. The fruit is firm, has less cracks and has a good-to-fair taste--depending on age of individual tasting and number of taste buds remaining. The plants are medium to large in size (depending on fertility) and have good to very good foliage.

Phoenix is an early mid-season hybrid hot-set tomato resistant to ASC, F-1, F-2, GLS and V-1. The determinate plant is vigorous with good leaf cover for fruit protection. The high quality, firm, globe-shaped fruit are uniformly-colored with jointed pedicles (the stem which attaches the fruit to the plant) and size from large to extra-large.

YOU MIGHT WANT TO GROW AN EARLY CROP AND A FALL CROP OF THIS VARIETY.

Phoenix tomato OVER-VIEW

Disease resistance: Phoenix is resistant to ASC, F-1, F-2, GLS, and V-1. (ASC= Alternaria Stem Canker; GLS= Gray Leaf Spot, Stemphylium; F-1 and F-2, fusarium 1 and 2; and V-1, Verticillium Wilt-1.
Fruit shape: Globe
Fruit size: Large to extra-large
Plant type: Compact determinate
Relative maturity: Midseason

What about starting seeds in a large pot as you are doing, but only filling the pot 2/3 of the way up at first. Then, as the seedling grows, add more soil to the pot to bury the stems. Seems like this would accomplish the same thing (eg strong root system) without stressing the seedling by digging and replanting.

It sounds like from what others have said that this may work if the tap root becomes damaged when it hits the bottom of the container, which should stimulate a fibrous root system to begin to develop at that time if they are correct.

Tom,
That is great that you've never had damping off, unfortunately many people do, or we would not know what damping off is.
I've never had a problem with it myself inside, and I've grown them for 20 years. Of course this past spring with being so incredible wet and cool here, as I said before, caused me to lose some potted up seedlings outside. So I know that even with knowing what you are doing, it is possible to have failure due to small root systems and damp soil that can not dry out quick enough.
Remy

In your opinion, can I just pick the tomatoes themselves, or should I bring the whole plant inside (buckets and all).

If they are totally green and no color break, then you have to bring the whole plant inside, buckets and all. If they have reached the color break stage, you can pick the tomatoes and let them ripen inside.

I think I have read here that some people wrap totally green tomatoes in newspapers and keep in boxes and they say they ripen, but if so, they are ripening from the ethylene gas they are exposed to being kept together. I doubt tomatoes ripened like that taste much better than a grocery store tomato.

But if you can't bring the whole plant inside, then that is what you will have to do.

Not sure, but I would think that a green tomato you had to bring in, that you grew yourself, would have to taste better than a grocery store. Reason being that you know the history of it, and that has a comforting effect. It truly is all subjective.

Long live Bill Hicks

Take care,
Travis

The spinach is yours Rane_grow. Thanks for the quick response.

Today I received seeds from "Highaltatransplant".

Hehehe. At least you got some tomatoes, though!

I don't think we would have found such a thing at a yard sale this year. Two hail storms 10 days apart in July wiped everyone out -- including 5,000-6,000 roofs and probably 10,000 cars, maybe more.

If you have a small food dehydrator, that's where my tomatoes go when I have too many to eat all at once, but not enough for a batch of sauce.

Or, you know, you could just eat them all at once anyway, like you did. :-)

Thanks, Carolyn, that helps a lot. I did not realize that the tap root would not be present in any transplanted tomato. Guess the only direct seeding I do is into a pot for transplant into the garden or container. So apparently none of mine have a 'tap root'. I pondered on experimenting with direct seeding into the garden, but I would lose so much precious growing season time it does not seem to be worth it - especially if the diffuse root is beneficial.
Carol

While a tap root is not necessary, in a very dry climate, it may be very useful because it allows the plant to take up water from deeper in the soil profile. This does NOT mean it is something you should try to get in a tomato plant. The tap root reduces growth of the fibrous root system which is more useful for uptake of nutrients in the top 12 inches of soil.

DarJones

You wrote "but there are peppers in the GH attached that are not showing herbicide damage."

In my experience with home gardens, tomatoes are extremely sensitive -- they need only a whiff -- peppers somewhat less so.

And I wonder if the plants in the GH & high tunnels received a higher dose than the outdoor plants simply because they are "enclosed" to a certain degree.

wpmoorej, I have a very healthy respect for the ability of 2.4D (especially the ester formulations) to drift off target and the susceptibility of tomatoes to the chemical. We used to say that tomatoes only had to hear the name 2.4D and they would start curling up! It also occured to me that you might be using 'growth regulating' products and that could contribute to the condition.
Regrettably I cannot offer a remedy. If the exposure has been light, the plants might outgrow the condition.

Try this data base......

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato disease

Phytotoxicity?
What sprays, if any have you used?
And/or what other treatments of any kind have been applied?