16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

I have used a pop up greenhouse the last two years. The first year it worked great but last year it was a very cold spring and I had to leave it closed up more than I liked. Basically I would look at the forecast and unzip it for the day based on that. Cooler and cloudy not very much and warm and sunny halfway or more. It would be better for sure if you or someone else was home to baby sit it but you can make it work even if you are gone all day. If you get one avoid the clear ones as they will burn stuff up in a heartbeat. The main upside is you can start stuff later and avoid the lights but if you have a very cold spring it can be a hassle.

How many plants are you planning on putting out.
If it is not a whole lot of them I would suggest the ones that are the stand up ones. They cost about $20 or so. They work to protect things in a light freeze. If it super cold then bring them in for the couple of days. My thing is it gets cold here at night early on. So I have a low tunnel. Most of my annual flowers survived in it till the temp stayed below freezing for 2 days. When the time comes for me to put the seedlings outside in the low tunnel they will be outside by day, and inside at night. If temps are expected to go below the mid 20's I will bring them inside till it warms back up.
Oh and with the smaller shelf type ones you can keep things warmer with a single heat lamp running at night.

Alfred Hershey came to Cold Spring Harbor in 1950. Two years later, he and Martha Chase performed one of the most famous experiments in modern biology, the âÂÂWaring blenderâ experiment, which reinforced the findings of other scientists that genes were made of DNA, not protein. The discovery of the structure of DNA in 1953, first described publicly by James Watson at the 1953 Cold Spring Harbor Symposium entitled âÂÂViruses,â heralded a new era in biology.
Above from your link.
Yes, others already had determined that DNA was composed of nucleic acids, not proteins,
And yes, Watson did present his findings at the summer symposium, which happened each summer but at that time was not a faculty member at CSH.
I too worked with phage as well as with other systems.
YOur link was great b'c so many of the names I knew well,like McClintock from Cornell, where I went,Luria, and so many more.
Please forgive me for posting more, but sheesh, it 's been a long time since I've seen those names, and yes, I attended two summer symposia at CSH myself.
Carolyn
Carolyn

A piece of that same Sungold plant is still there. So is a Black Cherry. I cut them off at soil level late last fall, but hadn't pulled up the roots. And they didn't have sense enough to notice the frost. Both are growing like crazy.
I guess I accidentally started my tomato season a few months early. A happy kind of accident, eh?

"Are you saying you got some Rebelion seed somewhere?
I had no idea anyone else could think of that. Wonder how
you did it. Is someone selling it here now?"
Ooops - sorry sneezer - It is the Marbonne (F1) seeds that I have purchased. Thanks for correcting me on the Marmande also - I can grow them a lot better than I can keep them straight - haha

Thanks for the correction. I hope your Marbonne does well.
I'll be looking for results, yours and others' around the forum come summer.
Actually, after my experience with "the R fruit", I'm a bit leery about the whole
trend of "improving" highly successful heirlooms. I just think something is being
left out of the mix as has happened so many times before. Especially from the
point of view of individuals growing for themselves and their families.
However, it's best to keep an open mind and I intend to do that and continue
to hope that the "project" turns out more successfully than I expect.

yardenman,
I tried grafting for the first time last year. I practiced all winter long. I got 0% yield the first couple of times I tried. But by the time February rolled around, I had the process nailed down and got >90% yield. The key learnings I got were 1) you need very good contact between the rootstock and scion and 2) you need to dial in the recipe for the healing chamber.
For #1, I found that getting good contact is extremely difficult with an angled cut because if the angles are off by even just a little, you get a gap and it's game over. I tried all kinds of jigs to help make the angled cuts uniform and repeatable, but I didn't have a lot of luck. So I ended up going with a basic horizontal flat cut. After that, my yields improved dramatically. The way I do it is I put a grafting clip on the rootstock and scion. I then lay a razor blade on the top surface of the clip and make the cut. This gives me a nice flat cut that is very repeatable.
The 2nd thing is to nail down the recipe for the healing chamber. The recipe will be different depending on what setup you have. I use a propagation kit with an extra deep dome. I put about 1/2" of hot tap water in the tray and then place a heating mat underneath the tray to keep the water warm. It takes 8 days for the healing to occur. The first 4 days I have a towel draped over the dome to maintain complete darkness and keep things warm. On the 5th day, I remove the towel, open one of the vents in the dome, and turn on one lamp (for 12 hrs). On the 6th day, I open the 2nd vent and introduce a second lamp. On the 7th day, I crack open the dome to lower the humidity even more and introduce a third lamp. On the 8th day I remove the dome completely and stay with the three lamps. On the 9th day, the plants are healed and ready to go under the lights in the garage.
The best way to fine tune the recipe is to graft a plant onto itself. This way you eliminate the contact goodness as a variable and you can focus on getting the recipe right.
Good luck!

Amazing. I thought a flat cut was the WORST way to go! Live and learn.
I have a humidity stand and it was warm upstairs where I had it, but I didn't use extra heat. I'll try that.
And I think, (from your description) that I left the grafted seedlings in the dark too long.
Thanks for all the advice!


Thanks bigpins
Now I have seeds both for Bear Claw and Brandy Boy. I will plant them both this year. Other than Ananas Noire and Cherokee Purple, I have no REAL BeefSteakd favorite so far. I hope that Bear Claw and Brandy Boy settle the case for me this season.
Seysonn.

I trialed several of the imposters back about 10 years ago. Nothing came close to Sun Gold. They were so bad, I'm only again hoping to do another trial this year with Ambrosia Gold and an F4 of Sun Gold that someone claims was extremely close in the F3.

Thanks for the replies all. The red must be brandymaster. It did have brandy in it and it was a red hybrid. I'm gonna go back and pick up a few more packs of Brandyboy to keep and share, since from comments it doesn't seem like it's a sure thing they may be offering it locally next year.
Thanks Carolyn, I know there any a few OP red brandywine strains out there. I do have seed for red, RL; not sure if it's the landis strain though. I love the taste of the basic pink brandywine, but the last 3 years of growing 2 plants, average I get about 1-3 ripe fruit per plant in my zone before frost, so I'm looking to branch out and try some of the brandywine hybrids this year, also have seed for OTV, excited about that 1 too.
My hubby did make me a hoop house over 1 of my raised beds, so I will also try to transplant out earlier in that bed also. My growing season is short for the late tomatoes.

I was asking the same question last year on this forum, since I was planning on canning tomatoes whole. As per recommendation, I grew F1 hybrid Mountain Magic. What a perfect canning tomato it turned out to be!
It has multiple advantages over other tomatoes I grew for that prupose, some are:
1.Production is great and plenty of fruits ripen in waves, so when it is time to can them - you can pick up a lot of red matters from a plant.
2. Firm flesh and thick skin - not so great qualities for fresh eating, but priceless for whole canning - the skin won't crack even when tomato is processed/canned.
3. Uniform, red "cookie-cutter" perfect, bite-sized round fruit: larger than cherry, but small enough to fit whole in your mouth.
Also, MM is very disease resistant - it was the last tomato I pulled out in fall.
Juliet F1 tomato is also good for this purpose, but not as good, because the fruit size is smaller than MM. I use Juliet to fill the gaps in the jars between MM tomatoes.

I make some spaghetti type sauce (general pasta use). For that reason I just use whatever I have. But if I were to can whole tomatoes then I would go with plump type, San Marzano types which are smaller and have more meat than juice.
Seysonn

I am sure people over there know all about how to use cow manure as manures are what is available as fertilizer.
But in my experience you can mix cow manure with garden soil ( 40/60) and top dress with it . stay away from the stem ( ~ 10 cm)
Seysonn

Is 'Janet's Jacinthe Jewel' the same as the one sold at Totally Tomatoes known as 'Janet's Jewel?'Yes, I am rather certain that it is. Parenthetically, IMO, it is bad "grammar" intentionally to alter the name of a tom variety, thereby creating 2 (or more) different names for the same tomato variety.
Reggie

I am skeptical of the method that commercially produce "F1" seed (mass production) . It is not obviously a "scientific" approach. So the logical scientific way would to be fast produce an stable product.
The other thing is just playing with the words. Example F1, F2 ,...Fn all are "HYBRIDS". At some Fx it might have already stabilized but the seeds company continues to sell it as "Hybrid". And the general public would not bother to save seeds from that "Fx".
It is hard to believe that, eg, Burpees is still producing and selling Big Boy F1.
Call me skeptic.
Seysonn

"I am skeptical of the method that commercially produce "F1" seed (mass production) ... Example F1, F2 ,...Fn all are "HYBRIDS".
In that sense, everything is a hybrid, because you are saying it is the result of the crossing of two parents and all presentations that develop from that cross down the line.
In the seed business, an F1 hybrid is formed by two parents that always give the same set of traits that define the hybrid seeds being sold. The set of traits expressed is called the desired phenotype.
F2, F3, ... Fn will have material from both of the original parents, so it is only a cross in that sense, but it will no longer be that dependable, uniform 50/50 combination giving solely the desired traits since F2 has scrambled the DNA after the second pollenation event on the grow out of your harvest.
Two uses for the word "hybrid".
1) Loose: A random simple cross resulting in diverse groups of F1's, better called a "cross" and not identified in industry with the label "F1" to avert confusion (even though it is), and generally results in a variety of segregating phenotypes.
2) Strict: A researched and developed cross from parents selected so that all desired traits are always expressed in F1's = uniform, called hybrid seed, labeled with "F1 hybrid", where it really means "true bred phenotypical F1 hybrid"
PC
This post was edited by PupillaCharites on Sun, Jan 18, 15 at 5:36

hi -
Yes, Sugar Drop is my variety. As Carolyn mentioned, it is from the Ambrosia Gold line, and we still were getting some reversion to the dominant red a couple of years ago. All the lines appear to be stable now at F5 and F6.
We raise and sell produce to local markets and restaurants, and Sugar Drop has replaced the original Sungold in our fields because it's ready early, holds well, and the brix levels are higher than Sungold throughout the season.
Anyway, thanks for the vote of confidence. It's always good to hear how something you've released is doing out there under different conditions.
Lee




Those look absolutely amazing! Can you tell me the exact make-up of the soil in your pots? Thank you!
Mike, I agree completely with using Joe's Pink OXheart, but if it were me I wouldn;t use Indigo Rose, the reason being that many who have grown it did NOT like the taste at all.
I think it does need to be a bit sweeter IMO and there are plenty of other varieties that could introduce not just that but also the antho and you might consider something like Purple Bumble Bee to name just one,
And it's good to remember that in the F1 that small fruit size in dominant,
And I hope that when I finally get my seed offer up ( not here at GW) and running that some will use it in breeding projects, b/c it is unique IMO.
Carolyn