16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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lkittle(6)

Hi remy; Thanks for the post so quickly. I looked it over twice and didn't see Mark (Korny) anywhere. Have you heard from him? Looks like all had fun. I hope next year will be better for me and the misses to come again we enjoyed the one we were at. Kind of miss it the past couple of years.

larry

    Bookmark     September 1, 2011 at 8:28PM
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remy_gw

You're welcome! Mark was there. Here's a pic with him in it.

It would be great to have you come again!
Remy

    Bookmark     September 1, 2011 at 8:56PM
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suncitylinda

I ordered some Dr Lyle because of you Carolyn, well, actually because of the description in your book. Cant wait to grow it next year. LInda

    Bookmark     September 1, 2011 at 11:33AM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

Carolyn, I haven't grown Dr. Lyle ... yet.

I certainly read the blossom color info in your book, but have likely seen it mentioned elsewhere also; the lighter colored flowers intrigue me. I have a large Word document (compulsive retired-librarian behavior) of interesting tomato varieties and other tomato info: Dr. Lyle and Lutescent came up in a search of the doc.

    Bookmark     September 1, 2011 at 12:18PM
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whgille(FL 9b)

Jay, yes I was wondering about that too. It has green and red stripes, sort of elongated shape and they are bigger than a cherry. I got a lot of tomatoes out of only 1 plant, this season I planted few, 2 for me and others for friends. I am sure that it will be a big seller at the market, they do look good in salads.
I will be waiting on your review of the other tomatoes to see if they are worth growing them.

Silvia

    Bookmark     August 31, 2011 at 1:30PM
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jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)

I am glad to hear the size is bigger than a cherry. I am hoping these will be a nice addition to our late fall/early winter salads. If they are really good and staying productive, we planned to move a few (Maybe 10-20) baskets into a south facing room with all windows and keep them going all winter long. We did that several years ago with one basket.

Jay

    Bookmark     September 1, 2011 at 11:31AM
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terrybull

depends on what is making them rotten.

    Bookmark     August 31, 2011 at 4:39PM
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taras49(6)

Yea, I figured that out about two minutes after my post; I'm sure that they rotted due to neglect; I traveled a lot more than anticipated and stayed away from home and garden too long. After my post I cleaned out all the rotten ones. No travel next year! Thanks for the reply.

    Bookmark     August 31, 2011 at 5:28PM
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obuckeye1997

I bought 2 plants and several different 'varieties' of the OSU seed this Spring. So far all I can say is WOW. The Plants are big with thick fat stems and very fast growing. They are out growing all my other tomatoes. They flower early and set well. The 2 plants have numerous golf ball sized fruits on them that are turning deep blue/purple right now. Looks like they will be ripe soon.

The seed grown ones are blooming right now from a May sowing and look to be more variable, though they too have excellent vigor. They will be plenty of time for these to set fruit too.

Besides the fast growth the lateral stems are very vigorous and have had to do a lot of staking. the only negative is that they have been prone to wind damage from being so big.

They are in the same soil as my other tomatoes which is good but not overly rich. The vigor on these is exceptional.

    Bookmark     July 16, 2011 at 10:46PM
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Edymnion(7a)

Yup, I had the same thing happen to mine as well.

I had it in a fairly mediocre wire cage because I honestly didn't expect this much growth out of them. Couple weeks ago we had a windstorm and it was so big and bushy the wind picked the entire damned thing up and knocked it over (note that it was in a 25 gallon pot, full to the top).

Had some damage from that, then more damage after I had to cut the metal cage out to put better stakes in. Didn't feel like just tossing half the plant on the compost pile (especially since they had small tomatoes on them), so I dug out the rest of my potting soil and tossed them in a big pot. Figured they'd live or die, would see what happened.

Not only did the impromptu cuttings live, they kept the tomatoes that are now ripening. These are hearty little buggers!

Picture of one of the clumps:

Had a small one ripen early (was down in the leaves away from most of the sun, so it was only half black, half red), too small for seeds so I ate it. Don't know why people put these things down, was a very tasty little 'mater in my book (although, again, the strain isn't entirely stable, maybe I just lucked out and got a yummy one).

    Bookmark     August 31, 2011 at 2:00PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

does that fertilizer manufacture formulate their product assuming the gardener's soil will be ideal (perfect) for their plants of choice?

Basically yes, not perfect but within the acceptable range of 'normal' soil pH.

s it safe to assume that no matter what fertilizer you choose and use it according to their directions, that it won't help much if your actual soil is unbalanced in nutrients and/or the pH is way off.

Yes, with provisions mentioned by Terry. It isn't a static environment. It is affected by the plants themselves, the weather, the pH of your water or the rain, the tilth of the soil, it's ability to drain or retain water, etc. But still basically, the answer is yes it won't help much if the soil pH is out of kilter.

Can any fertilizer help balance poor soil?

Simple answer is no, not if you mean balance the pH. Improve the nutrient availability, sure but would they be more usable by the plants just because they are there, not necessarily.

It's for these reasons that compost rather than manufactured fertilizers is so strongly recommended. It can balance the pH, improve the soil tilth and water balance, and feed the plants. How well it does all those things depends on the quality of the compost used.

Most have had aphids since day one.

Often a good indicator of excessive nitrogen use.

Dave

    Bookmark     August 30, 2011 at 4:40PM
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billyberue

Thanks so much!

    Bookmark     August 31, 2011 at 7:48AM
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dickiefickle(5B Dousman,Wi.)

Maybe you should try it again ,hard to rate a tom on one bad season

    Bookmark     August 31, 2011 at 5:40AM
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2ajsmama

I don't know - my 1st year growing determinates. They're *supposed* to ripen all at once over a couple of weeks and then die, but I've been harvesting Glaciers all month, it's been an awful year (hot dry July and WET August), they're still ripening - and have new blossoms (at the tops)!

We'll see what Irene did to them - just staked them back up yesterday.

    Bookmark     August 30, 2011 at 10:12PM
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d.solomon

An old fashion method to get rid of them is garlic spray. Planting mint or tansy around your tomatoes help to repel them in the future.

    Bookmark     August 29, 2011 at 7:11PM
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suprstock(6)

Seven dust if it is alot of bugs , insecticide soap works on Japanese beetles and white flies.

    Bookmark     August 30, 2011 at 11:31AM
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Bets(z6A S ID)

Hello,

You will get some variation in all tomatoes due to weather and such. Experienced growers tend not to rule out a variety based on a single years experience. What is a fantastic tomato in an optimal year may be just so-so in a year that is wetter, drier, hotter or cooler than the previous year. Disease and insect loads certainly do affect the flavor also. Many on the forum are mentioning that tomatoes they have had great production and flavor with in the past are rather poor producers with lackluster flavor this year. Give them another chance if you have the room. If you hate it three (or more) years in a row, then strike it from your "to grow" list and give any remaining seeds away or flush them the way you would expired medicine!

Betsy

    Bookmark     August 9, 2010 at 6:30PM
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bilbo3653

I have grown Sheboygan tomatoes for the past 5 years. I usually grow about 20 varieties each year. Sheboygan has been and will remain my favorite tomato. That said this years crop is really bad. About half of the varieties I have grown this year are in the same boat.

I urge you not to give up on this tomato, everybody who has tried it sings it praise. 2 years ago I counted 250 fruits on one plant. I plant my father in laws garden with 8 tomatoes each year, last year and this year he requested all Sheboygans.

    Bookmark     August 30, 2011 at 9:43AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Mostly genetic but growing conditions like weather, air temps, watering, size of containers, etc. can affect it too. Fertilizer? No documented effect of differences - unless the plants are deprived of nutrients all together of course - some just work faster/longer/better than others.

Dave

    Bookmark     August 22, 2011 at 9:21AM
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miesenbacher(7)

A study was done in Japan where they measured the sugar levels (Sucrose, Glucose and Fructose) in tomatoes grown with chemical fertilization, organic (bokashi) and with chicken manure and each one also with the addition of EM (Effective Microorganisms). The results were the Chicken manure and Chicken manure with EM had the highest sugar content followed by Organic and Organic plus EM and lastly the Chemical and Chemical plus EM. Each regemen with the addition of EM had a slightly higher sugar content than without. So if you inoculate your soil with Microbial's you should get a higher sugar content with whatever type of growing method you use whether it be organic or inorganic. Ami

Ref. Nature Farming and Microbial Applications
Xu, PhD
Parr, PhD
Umemura, PhD

    Bookmark     August 30, 2011 at 7:57AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Like Tom suggests there are all sorts of things you can buy or make up to provide some shelter. Hundreds of different tents, cloches, row covers, clear plastic buckets with vent holes cut in them, even a 3 ring tomato cage with a board laid on top of it. The list goes on and on with just a bit of imagination. You just have to think outside the box.

I personally would NOT transplant them to their permanent home at the 2nd set of true leaves stage as the root system has not yet caught up with the top growth. Assuming they are,'t leggy then 6-8" tall with 3-4 sets of leaves is a pretty standard transplant size and then planted deeply.

Dave

    Bookmark     August 29, 2011 at 7:04PM
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springlift34

Grow twice as many as you need, and put those suckers in the ground as soon as possible. Watch some die, and watch some grow as soon as they form baby second leaf structure.

All with a smile.

    Bookmark     August 30, 2011 at 1:45AM
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fredborn(z9 fl)

They are in different mixes.

I fertilized today with magnesium.

Will see what happens.

Might cut them back and let them regrow - I'm in zone 9 so they have time.

Thanks all.

    Bookmark     August 29, 2011 at 12:54PM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

ketaki, I should also have added that some tomatoes are determinates, which mean that they naturally only grow to a certain point, after which they don't put out new growth. And then they die. [Indeterminates, on the other hand, keep growing until frost kills them.]

Do you know the name of the variety you grew?

    Bookmark     August 29, 2011 at 1:17PM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

Naps, if you live in Florida, Texas, or California, there's an endemic pest called the tomato pinworm, which starts off less than a millimeter long. But apparently if you live elsewhere and bought seedlings, it might have come with your plants. You can read about it here:
http://ipm.ncsu.edu/AG295/html/tomato_pinworm.htm

This site describes the infant caterpiller as cream-colored with a black or brown head. Do your little guys have dark heads?
http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/04-025.htm

Good news: if you don't live in California, Texas, or Florida, they'll die when the winter comes. Apparently if you start your plants from seed, you shouldn't have a problem next year.

Your best bet to identify the little guys may be to raise some and compare them with online photos when they get to a larger size, pupate, or turn into moths/butterflies. There just aren't many photos of tomato-eating caterpillars when they're so small -- and some of the caterpillars change quite a bit from instar to instar (caterpillar life stages).

    Bookmark     August 28, 2011 at 10:48PM
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NapswithBear

Missingtheobvious... You're so rad! Thanks :)

    Bookmark     August 28, 2011 at 11:45PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Removing flowers, no. Trimming off new growth, maybe. Some advocate topping the plants at season's end to force ripen the remaining fruit. I've never tried it personally since my season is so long here.

Same goes for spade pruning roots on one side of the plant - some swear by it. Logically it has the best chance of working.

What works best for me if needed is just to pull up the whole plant and hang it upside down in the basement, barn or greenhouse where it won't freeze. The fruit ripen nicely.

Dave

    Bookmark     August 28, 2011 at 4:54PM
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carolyn137(z4/5 NY)

If shovel pruning you do it all the way around the main stem, about one foot out from the main stem, not just halfway around the plant.

What it does is to cut the top feeder roots, the other roots are depper so you aren't killing the plant.

And yes, for many is does work.

The temps for September here where I live in NYS are supposed to be much warmer and drier than normal, so I'm not doing anything to my plants well, not much to do after the devastation due to Irene today.

Carolyn

    Bookmark     August 28, 2011 at 8:41PM
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