16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Daniel,
Your garden is going like Energizer Bonny. hehe. Good for you. Some of my plants are live and well but nothing near yours.
I am waiting for a nice sunny day to clean up and call it "a season". I am working on my 2015 plans now. " What To Grow, What Not To Grow". @ your recommendation, I will grow Brandy Boy, for sure. I know it is a hybrid . So I got to get seeds.That will be probably the only hybrid I will grow.
Thank You Lubadub,
Here is more on seeds and how to make crosses. however, I do not know how to leave the url under a click. so you will have to do a google search for this topic. It is available online for free. you can download the pdf off the screen.
google search for pdf of
Breeding Organic Vegetables
a step by step guide for growers
nofany.org offers it free online
if someone can do the url properly then do it. for those coming now skip down and see if someone has it posted easier to find.
Posted by Deeby 9b (My Page) on
Sat, Jun 21, 14 at 16:47
Someday researchers will say, "Wait ! We were wrong ! New developments show..." and everyone stocks up on TUMS..
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
There is no secret about TUMS.
TUMS:( I read on the label)
Active Ingredients : Calcium Carbonate, 1000 mg.
..............
Witch's Brew: Calcium Acetate ( dolomitic lime + vinegar >>> CO2 + Calcium Acetate + water)
Note: Vinegar = 95% H2O + 5% Acetic Acid.
My Conclusion:
Calcium ( in ionic form of Ca++)can be taken up by plants, regardless of the source. Foliar spraying/feeding can bypass the root system for a nearly instant satisfaction.
I grew about a dozen varieties this past season. Not a single tomato was lost to BER. But I did use fertz with Calcium and also used Calcium Acetate (my own brew) later in the season on tomatoes and peppers. I will do the same next season.
TO EACH HIS OWN.
I am all Organic. and if I need something to save the crop, I lose the crop and choose to be all Organic and just do not grow that crop in the future. I see nothing wrong with losing a crop to not poisoning myself the land and all things around me and the water below ground. this world has no opportunity to survive the excuses of the EGO. The intellectual mind of the EGO will destroy and kill everything. The EGO can never choose love over conflict and destruction. Wake up. observe your own mind at work. the human mind is the PROBLEM not the solution.
My father 65 years ago used to add milk to the tomatoes. If we kids had any left over milk we would add water to the glass and pour it onto the tomato garden. he said it was good for the tomatoes. that it was fertilizer for them. as a little kid I believed him. what did I know.
I do know his father grew tomatoes before 1900.
Now I have to investigate another person line that grew same F2 seedlings because her line ended up being far more BW with later maturing date but very delish, winner in taste by my opinion.
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The F2's I grew were midseason and the one Jeff stabilized was also midseason, so I have a problem seeing what you describe as being later maturing like BW. How much later than either of the two parents since all the various BW's I've grown have been late midseason, not late season, which for me is over 80 days, roughly.
Taste? Subjective as always,''Was it red and PL?
The others you know also worked with just the BW X Stupice cross?
Just curious on the above questions,
Carolyn
My friends selections of 2006 and 2009 years, grown by me this year were about a week earlier than Maya's and all of them were what I call early midseason. My friend gave some of her F2 seedlings to another friend who got her selections growing for few years and from her I got this later midseason, more on large BW size at about when regular BW will start for me. Am thinking in that selection very little was left from Stupice genes and quite a bit from BW... is this possible that as line continue to develop, less and less of one parent left and more and more of another comes out?
Last year all my tomatoes got infected. I am growing champion II from seed this year. Did not use pesticide to keep white fly at bay (after all is not virus resistance developed to avoid using pesticide against white flies?). All champ II got the virus. Worthless
If you read the blurbs, it is only intermediate resistance, not immunity. You MUST protect the plants to some degree or they will always go down with TYLC.
There are some varieties available now that have more stacked resistance genes. Four genes are in current literature ty-1, ty-2, ty-3, and ty-4. Check the Florida breeding program for some details.
One of the new resistance mechanisms is plants that repel whiteflies. Combine this with some of the virus tolerance genes and we should have tomatoes that grow and produce regardless of whitefly presence.
The Florida breeding program is working on this but may be a few years away from highly resistant plants.
> You can't save whole threads, only posts in the threads.
Yes, you save POSTS, but when you click on clippingâ title it will open the ENTIRE page - with ALL the posts, not only the one you saved. Which I like very much. I mean, it's good to save a specific post, but if it doesn't link to the thread where it belongs... you'll have to do a search in the forum to find the thread. So, how is right now it's ok.
> So yes, with the above links I can save any post from any of those threads
I tried again, but I still can NOT save posts from those links in Firefox, which tells me: : âÂÂNoScript (an extension / add-on for Firefox) filtered a potential cross-site scripting (XSS) attempt from [http://forums.gardenweb.com]. Technical details have been logged to the Console.âÂÂ
ItâÂÂs strange because I can save MOST of the posts, while SOME I can not. That XXS should apply to ALL the pages, imo.
Luckly I CAN save posts in Internet Explorer.
Weather permitting in zone 7 it is fairly common. We have had an unusually warm fall down here over the past several years and tomato blooms develop well into early November. Further south, even later assuming plants are healthy still.
When possible to move those plants under cover ripe tomatoes can be served for Christmas dinner here. :) Doubt it is possible in NY unless you have a greenhouse.
Dave
Tomato plants, being genetically a perennial, do not have a sensor for seasons. I started pinching all buds/flowers starting lat August on my plants. Because I new that those buds are not going to make it. I was right. My plants are loaded with fruits initiated before end of august but are not ripening, EXCEPT a handful of Sun Golds. . I picked some as big as 10 to 18 oz (Ananas Noir, Cherokee purple) and smaller varieties with slight hint of color, just yesterday , Hoping that they might ripen inside . I have hundreds more that are green, no chance to ripen. Incidentally we have had a goo fall weather. Our lows now going down to about 45F and highs around 57F.
I gave up on pinching by the end of September. Even now some of them are flowering, while almost half dead. They just don't get it. Dets seem to be a bit cold sensitive.
Aaron,
My garden here in Green Bay had many great tomatoes, but I thought Martino's Roma was tasteless, mealy and dry. The bush was first to attract a leaf disease which spread to other Martinos and to other nearby varieties. They were very small fruits, which tended to drop to the ground easily even when they were green. I also thought my other roma, Polish Linquisa was tasteless, dry, mealy, and the fruits cracked a lot after rain. I guess I am done with romas.
1. Best tasting - Black Krim
2. Most productive - Large Red Cherry
3. Earliest producer - Large Red Cherry
4. Largest - German Johnson
5. Ugliest - N/A
6. Tallest (plant) - Large Red Cherry
7. Most prone to disease - Large Red Cherry and Amish Paste
8. Prettiest - Box Car Willie (see picture)
PC, I can't agree with the cut and paste at the top of your post.
I've only taken cuttings of suckers, best known as lateral branches, from plants already in the ground that got damaged by critters or yanked out when my farmer friends hired man was cultivating.
I just take one lateral branch, jam it in the ground next to the damaged plant, make a wee moat around it and keep it filled with water until I see new growth,
And what grows and forms a new plant has always been identical to the plant habit of the damaged plant, not leggy, not lanky. After all, what's being done is cloning so I wouldn 't expect to see differences
My season is too short to take cuttings for Fall plants.
Carolyn
I grew 3 plants in containers started from suckers. I think the parent plants maybe alredy had a little blight at the bottom when I harvested the suckers and so the new plants did blight out sorta early. I pulled 10-12in suckers and put them in large size Styrofoam cups in potting soil and kept them wet in the shade for about 5 days and then hardened them off for three more(sun). The red-yellow gave me 4 almost identical 20 oz fruit in a cluster and that was that. A Cherokee Purple made about 5-6 10-12 oz fruit. The Bear Claw produced about about 6 tomatoes blemish free and about half as big as my garden ones....maybe 12 oz. Next yr I plan to have six late ones and maybe grow from seed to see if I can beat the blight in containers. About ten yrs ago I gave my Dad a sucker plant maybe 16in tall late and it grew some large wonderful tomatoes..Mr Stripey variety. He picked 3 20 oz tomatoes Thanksgiving week and took them with him to the W.Va mountains for deer season. His friends were amazed.
Marv, I've looked at the picture several times and just cannot be sure of what I'm seeing since the magnification is not high enough to see the interior of the spots I see.
And there may be more than one foliage infection as I see it. The small ones with yellow halos could be Early Blight, as mentioned above, but the larger spot and the expanded ones along the leaf margin could be Septoria Leaf Spot, both fungal, but I can't see the interior structure,
Most of the time the two bacterial ones don't show yellow halos.
Is it the lower leaves or higher up where you see the first signs of infection and I ask b'c that would make a difference as to splashback reinfection from a prior year or a new infection.
Do you spray a good anti-fungal prep as a preventative?
THE products used to help prevent bacterial foliage infections that are available tohome growerfs are not all that effective but would include a copper product or Mancozeb.
Not much help on my part but I wanted to let you know that I had looked at the picture and can only offer suggstions, but not confirm any specific Dx.
Carolyn
Your tomatoes look wonderful. You should be proud!
I'm just getting set up to grow greens and tomatoes under CFL lights. I'm hoping you can answer two burning questions I have.
My fantasy is that I can grow successions of tomatoes so that I have a more or less continual supply of tomatoes year round. I'd be more than happy with just a few ripe toms a week. Is that reasonable and how often would I need to start new plants to replace the dying determinates?
How is the flavor of toms grown indoors? Is there a way to assure good flavor over blandness?
Thanks for your post and keep posting photos for gawkers like me.
UPDATE:
Today I was shopping at Trader Joes. I picked a pack of what they have labeled as Mini Heirloom Tomatoes. At $2.95 /lb sounded a good deal. I get to eat them and save seeds too. I like the yellow/gold ones, slightly oval. That is what I was looking for. They weigh about 0.4 oz, which is good size . Then there are few black/brown ones weighing about 2.5 oz. Also few other cherry kinds that do not interest me to save seeds from.
Here are the pictures:
This was the best deal.
What do you think ?
BTW: I am growing the red ones this year. Also got seeds from TJ's.
It seems like a good idea IF any of them were incredibly tasty, but it's disappointing that they don't list the varieties. Supposing you really really liked one and wanted to save and share the seeds with friends. You wouldn't know what to call it.
Linda
I "heart" my heart tomatoes LOL. Sauce, soup, salad, sandwich, they truly do it all. If you aren't getting enough at any one time to do your sauce, can you not freeze what you pick early and when you pick more, use them both for the sauce?
Edie
I don't grow anything just for canning (Sauce, paste, whole). At the peak when we have abundant, I make some plain spaghetti sauce , with whatever there is.
After washing, removing skin, core, most of seeds, Cut them to pieces, heat in a pot.
Use a potato masher and press the heck of it.
Get the juice out (after brought to boil). Use the juice to drink, make soup with or bloody mary (now and then).
By this time the original weight/volume is reduced by 50%.
Simmer a while longer to get a spaghetti sauce thickness...
Voila, can it
When I open the jar and want to make spaghetti, then I saute garlic, onion, add oregano, fresh basil, thyme to it and let it simmer a while....Umm... Mama mia.. perfetto, ha !
This post was edited by seysonn on Thu, Oct 23, 14 at 4:36
Please don't refrigerate them. It ruins the flavor and they get glassy looking. We wrap ours in newspaper and put them in a paper bag to ripen. It takes a few weeks. I don't know what to tell you about the black spots. That might cause problems.
Here is my take:
== Those with faintest suggestion of color will ripen inside ; on the counter, in box, in basement. warmer temperature (~70F) is better.
== Then there those that have no hint of color but are at mature size. They also stand a good chance to ripen inside.
== Third, those that have stopped at growth stage. They will make the best dill pickles, much better than cucumbers, IMO. Also you can make salsa and relish with those.
I have some of all 3 categories myself.
I don't know why your tomatoes cracked while in the frig. But as Dave said some varieties (with thin skin, IMO) crack more readily. I had both Sun Gold (thin skin) and unknow variety (thicker skin). The latter never cracked.
The simple solution to cracking, as I have experimented and is true is just pick them as they turn color(say 50%). Then leave then in the room temperature (65F to 75F ?), on the counter, in the basement ... They should get nice color without cracking .
I had to top them. Or they would grow to 8' tall.
Daniel made a very good point about the height. If you can't deal with an 8-12 foot tall plant, which is perfectly normal for most indeterminate varieties, then you may want to re-evaluate the support system and the spacing you are using before next year. Either that or just stick with determinate varieties.
Dave