16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
> You can't save whole threads, only posts in the threads.
Yes, you save POSTS, but when you click on clippingâ title it will open the ENTIRE page - with ALL the posts, not only the one you saved. Which I like very much. I mean, it's good to save a specific post, but if it doesn't link to the thread where it belongs... you'll have to do a search in the forum to find the thread. So, how is right now it's ok.
> So yes, with the above links I can save any post from any of those threads
I tried again, but I still can NOT save posts from those links in Firefox, which tells me: : âÂÂNoScript (an extension / add-on for Firefox) filtered a potential cross-site scripting (XSS) attempt from [http://forums.gardenweb.com]. Technical details have been logged to the Console.âÂÂ
ItâÂÂs strange because I can save MOST of the posts, while SOME I can not. That XXS should apply to ALL the pages, imo.
Luckly I CAN save posts in Internet Explorer.
Weather permitting in zone 7 it is fairly common. We have had an unusually warm fall down here over the past several years and tomato blooms develop well into early November. Further south, even later assuming plants are healthy still.
When possible to move those plants under cover ripe tomatoes can be served for Christmas dinner here. :) Doubt it is possible in NY unless you have a greenhouse.
Dave
Tomato plants, being genetically a perennial, do not have a sensor for seasons. I started pinching all buds/flowers starting lat August on my plants. Because I new that those buds are not going to make it. I was right. My plants are loaded with fruits initiated before end of august but are not ripening, EXCEPT a handful of Sun Golds. . I picked some as big as 10 to 18 oz (Ananas Noir, Cherokee purple) and smaller varieties with slight hint of color, just yesterday , Hoping that they might ripen inside . I have hundreds more that are green, no chance to ripen. Incidentally we have had a goo fall weather. Our lows now going down to about 45F and highs around 57F.
I gave up on pinching by the end of September. Even now some of them are flowering, while almost half dead. They just don't get it. Dets seem to be a bit cold sensitive.
Aaron,
My garden here in Green Bay had many great tomatoes, but I thought Martino's Roma was tasteless, mealy and dry. The bush was first to attract a leaf disease which spread to other Martinos and to other nearby varieties. They were very small fruits, which tended to drop to the ground easily even when they were green. I also thought my other roma, Polish Linquisa was tasteless, dry, mealy, and the fruits cracked a lot after rain. I guess I am done with romas.
1. Best tasting - Black Krim
2. Most productive - Large Red Cherry
3. Earliest producer - Large Red Cherry
4. Largest - German Johnson
5. Ugliest - N/A
6. Tallest (plant) - Large Red Cherry
7. Most prone to disease - Large Red Cherry and Amish Paste
8. Prettiest - Box Car Willie (see picture)
PC, I can't agree with the cut and paste at the top of your post.
I've only taken cuttings of suckers, best known as lateral branches, from plants already in the ground that got damaged by critters or yanked out when my farmer friends hired man was cultivating.
I just take one lateral branch, jam it in the ground next to the damaged plant, make a wee moat around it and keep it filled with water until I see new growth,
And what grows and forms a new plant has always been identical to the plant habit of the damaged plant, not leggy, not lanky. After all, what's being done is cloning so I wouldn 't expect to see differences
My season is too short to take cuttings for Fall plants.
Carolyn
I grew 3 plants in containers started from suckers. I think the parent plants maybe alredy had a little blight at the bottom when I harvested the suckers and so the new plants did blight out sorta early. I pulled 10-12in suckers and put them in large size Styrofoam cups in potting soil and kept them wet in the shade for about 5 days and then hardened them off for three more(sun). The red-yellow gave me 4 almost identical 20 oz fruit in a cluster and that was that. A Cherokee Purple made about 5-6 10-12 oz fruit. The Bear Claw produced about about 6 tomatoes blemish free and about half as big as my garden ones....maybe 12 oz. Next yr I plan to have six late ones and maybe grow from seed to see if I can beat the blight in containers. About ten yrs ago I gave my Dad a sucker plant maybe 16in tall late and it grew some large wonderful tomatoes..Mr Stripey variety. He picked 3 20 oz tomatoes Thanksgiving week and took them with him to the W.Va mountains for deer season. His friends were amazed.
Marv, I've looked at the picture several times and just cannot be sure of what I'm seeing since the magnification is not high enough to see the interior of the spots I see.
And there may be more than one foliage infection as I see it. The small ones with yellow halos could be Early Blight, as mentioned above, but the larger spot and the expanded ones along the leaf margin could be Septoria Leaf Spot, both fungal, but I can't see the interior structure,
Most of the time the two bacterial ones don't show yellow halos.
Is it the lower leaves or higher up where you see the first signs of infection and I ask b'c that would make a difference as to splashback reinfection from a prior year or a new infection.
Do you spray a good anti-fungal prep as a preventative?
THE products used to help prevent bacterial foliage infections that are available tohome growerfs are not all that effective but would include a copper product or Mancozeb.
Not much help on my part but I wanted to let you know that I had looked at the picture and can only offer suggstions, but not confirm any specific Dx.
Carolyn
Your tomatoes look wonderful. You should be proud!
I'm just getting set up to grow greens and tomatoes under CFL lights. I'm hoping you can answer two burning questions I have.
My fantasy is that I can grow successions of tomatoes so that I have a more or less continual supply of tomatoes year round. I'd be more than happy with just a few ripe toms a week. Is that reasonable and how often would I need to start new plants to replace the dying determinates?
How is the flavor of toms grown indoors? Is there a way to assure good flavor over blandness?
Thanks for your post and keep posting photos for gawkers like me.
UPDATE:
Today I was shopping at Trader Joes. I picked a pack of what they have labeled as Mini Heirloom Tomatoes. At $2.95 /lb sounded a good deal. I get to eat them and save seeds too. I like the yellow/gold ones, slightly oval. That is what I was looking for. They weigh about 0.4 oz, which is good size . Then there are few black/brown ones weighing about 2.5 oz. Also few other cherry kinds that do not interest me to save seeds from.
Here are the pictures:
This was the best deal.
What do you think ?
BTW: I am growing the red ones this year. Also got seeds from TJ's.
It seems like a good idea IF any of them were incredibly tasty, but it's disappointing that they don't list the varieties. Supposing you really really liked one and wanted to save and share the seeds with friends. You wouldn't know what to call it.
Linda
I "heart" my heart tomatoes LOL. Sauce, soup, salad, sandwich, they truly do it all. If you aren't getting enough at any one time to do your sauce, can you not freeze what you pick early and when you pick more, use them both for the sauce?
Edie
I don't grow anything just for canning (Sauce, paste, whole). At the peak when we have abundant, I make some plain spaghetti sauce , with whatever there is.
After washing, removing skin, core, most of seeds, Cut them to pieces, heat in a pot.
Use a potato masher and press the heck of it.
Get the juice out (after brought to boil). Use the juice to drink, make soup with or bloody mary (now and then).
By this time the original weight/volume is reduced by 50%.
Simmer a while longer to get a spaghetti sauce thickness...
Voila, can it
When I open the jar and want to make spaghetti, then I saute garlic, onion, add oregano, fresh basil, thyme to it and let it simmer a while....Umm... Mama mia.. perfetto, ha !
This post was edited by seysonn on Thu, Oct 23, 14 at 4:36
Please don't refrigerate them. It ruins the flavor and they get glassy looking. We wrap ours in newspaper and put them in a paper bag to ripen. It takes a few weeks. I don't know what to tell you about the black spots. That might cause problems.
Here is my take:
== Those with faintest suggestion of color will ripen inside ; on the counter, in box, in basement. warmer temperature (~70F) is better.
== Then there those that have no hint of color but are at mature size. They also stand a good chance to ripen inside.
== Third, those that have stopped at growth stage. They will make the best dill pickles, much better than cucumbers, IMO. Also you can make salsa and relish with those.
I have some of all 3 categories myself.
It bothers me when your opinions are not factual but wrong.
Opinion is "opinion" . does not have to be "factual". And I don't claim mine are factual.
yet you never show any interest in changing your "opinion" or in learning about why your "opinion" may be wrong. This no matter how much information is provided to you. All you do is spout your opinion and then argue with anyone who differs with your opinion.
That is arrogance on your part to speak so authoritatively to claim that YOU have the right answers and information. and therefore I (or others) have to change my/their opinion. If you go your way, there will be no body to ARGUE with. You do participate voluteerly in argument to prove that you are right. I just express my opinion, which obviously I believe there is validity to them until proven wrong. So then it is more on your part to prove me wrong rather than just what you think.
And try FINALLY to learn the meaning of "FORUM".
Opinions expressed in the forum belongs to those who express them.
----------------------
BTW: I have learned few thing from both of you on this forum and I respect your knowledge and expertise in certain areas. But I disagree with you on occasions. There is nothing personal about it.
Age wise I am about your age and education wise I have a few college degrees of my own and experience.
Thanks Sey
It turned out that the temp dropped to around 33-34 (from a weather station) and the only damage I noticed was the cherry tomato plant which was the tallest showed signs of damage but not ruined as you can see in the top photo. The top stuck out above my 6ft fence line, but lower all seemed to be fine along with the tomatoes even at the top.
The rest of the plants were green but seemed to droop a little bit but no sign of damage other then the leaves falling off from prior. The next ten days I hope will be ok, and they say the low will be around 40 but I know the time is coming soon.
The bottom photo is my latest harvest ready to eat just about (I kind of like the contrast with the tomatoes with the fall decorations lol), and got 2 more bowls like that but they just started to turn color. Anyway thanks again both of you and I will update some photos soon.
- Mr Beno
Yeah, take a look at the blossom set spray and be prepared if you decide it's worth it. Normally it is unnecessary, but we are basically asking for production in colder than seasonal weather for our Super Sweet 100s when they otherwise would be hitting their stride, and that's exactly when the blossome spray can be most helpful ... if there are cold snaps breaking up some otherwise reasonable cooler growing conditions IMO. I'll do my part to keep the enthusiasm and show you my cooler Zone 9 progress. Here's a week after my first pic above. Humid, 49 F two night cold snap did not prevent mine from normally setting fruit without help. Anything below that and I'll get the spray, but the forecast is behaved so far in coastal North FL. Now we're back to lows around 70 F at night:
PC
MammaWolf, here we go again, looks like I'm going to have 18 total blossoms on this one. It's the same truss, one and two weeks after my earlier pics. So far, 9 tomatoes, 4 blossoms, and 5 buds. Ours both began flowering on the same day and I'm at the same latitude as you, too ;-)
PC
Holy cow! With the size of those tomatoes compared to your hand, how big was that seed envelope?!
I'm with you, I grow mostly heirloom and open pollinated tomatoes (maybe 5% hybrids) so I can save seeds and don't have to pay Burpee and other retailers prices over and over again.
Betsy
Last year all my tomatoes got infected. I am growing champion II from seed this year. Did not use pesticide to keep white fly at bay (after all is not virus resistance developed to avoid using pesticide against white flies?). All champ II got the virus. Worthless
If you read the blurbs, it is only intermediate resistance, not immunity. You MUST protect the plants to some degree or they will always go down with TYLC.
There are some varieties available now that have more stacked resistance genes. Four genes are in current literature ty-1, ty-2, ty-3, and ty-4. Check the Florida breeding program for some details.
One of the new resistance mechanisms is plants that repel whiteflies. Combine this with some of the virus tolerance genes and we should have tomatoes that grow and produce regardless of whitefly presence.
The Florida breeding program is working on this but may be a few years away from highly resistant plants.