16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
"Reflector" is a term for posting used by electronic mailing list forums, when one posts by sending an email to a single email which is the forum reflector email address which "reflects" it back to the emails of all the members.
On GW'sthere is a feature called clipping. If there are posts you want to remember you can clip them and they appear on a separate page called "my clippings" which get saved to a page of memorable highlights you can refer to and designate each clipping as private or public.
kpn, I didn't say that your pictures was photoshopped, what I said is that we have seen some photoshopped ones here that others noted were off the net from somewhere. ( smile)
Carolyn
This post was edited by carolyn137 on Tue, Aug 5, 14 at 9:51
I think you should put a piece of paper with YOUR initials on it under YOUR porn tomato and upload that photo, but anyone with photoshop could photoshop your initials out.
Sad world we live in. It wouldn't surprise me if YOUR photo makes it's way around the web............
Anyway, I bet that tomato tastes as good as the rest even with it's deformity. Probably common in tomatoes.
First year growing MWC. It is an amazingly huge plant with impressive production. The taste is as sweet as it's reputation. My only knock on it is:
1. Very small fruit
So I knew it was going to be small, but I guess I didn't know it would be that small. I'm also growing a variety called "Coyote" which is very productive like MWC, sweet like MWC, but yellow. I just wish I would get more bang per tomato in terms of size. I like the cherry size that are large enough to cut in half and add to salads.
2. Cemented to the vine
So, staying on put on the vine is a good thing, but my MWC is almost cemented to it. When I pull them off, sometimes it's yummy meat inside stays with the vine. This makes it somewhat difficult to remove. Granted, this is early in the season and maybe this behavior will change.
What I'd really love is a cherry tomato, the size of Magic Mountain but sweet like MWC. Does anyone have any suggestions?
smithmal
This post was edited by smithmal on Mon, Aug 4, 14 at 22:26
Thanks Dill and yes the variety was Marmande, the one that the Proccaci Bros used to TMark the one they developed.
Through all of this mess and litigation I decided I couldn/t trust anything that the Procacci's notedat their website.
The way they took over the UGly Ripe from the woman in FL was awful and same for them when there was a huge mess and litigation when they thought they had put Andrew Chu in FL, who had introduced the first grape tomato that most folks knew, that being Santa F1, out of business.
But Andrew had other sources for that hybrid and continued to market fruits. What I don't understand is why, in the final settlement it said that Santa F1 seeds couldn't be sold in the US for X number of years, that time passed and still no seeds of it. The last place to offer those seeds was TGS and when I asked Linda about it she said she had heard nothing.
I'm not all choked up about that b'c I think most folks know they can buy Santa Sweets TM, brought to you by the Procacci's, they are hybrid fruits, save seeds and 99% of the plants will give the same as the original, the offtype being not the right shape and having a lower Brix concentration.
B/c I love the Procacci's so much I spread that info around at every site I stop by,after Andrew told me that and there are now folks as far out as the F9 or so, and all is well
Carolyn
Farmer Dill, thanks for that cat's meow of Grandma's Pick hybrid in the post and for clarifying the marketing scam that promulgated deceptive information about the cultivar, as I cannot believe it is a coincidence that so much misinformation is floating around for this specific UglyRipe™ base model tomato.
As for the other grape tomato, Thompson & Morgan have new for this year an improved cultivar based on Santa F1 if anyone wants to pay three pounds plus UK shipping for 6 seeds. They call it Santonio F1Their US website apparently could process the purchase (unconfirmed).
Carolyn or anyone have similar growing feedback for any version of the UglyRipe™ branded tomatoes?
This post was edited by PupillaCharites on Mon, Aug 4, 14 at 23:09
I'm mostly container growing and I finally took down a Red Penna. It started with the leaves looking like they had septoria or bacterial speck, then the stems started with lesions, but it was producing fruit. I n the last few days I realized the flowers were all drying up and when I cut off a few stems they were hollow inside. I tried several treatments and today I chopped it down and hope none of my other plants get whatever this one has. I think my plants were too close, high humidity, maybe too much foliage and not enough air circulation. I don't think it was too much nitrogen as I was using Foliage Pro 9-3-6 in a 5-1-1 mix, but at this point, I'm not certain of anything. I kind of thought it was tomato pith necrosis too.
Hi sharonie
There is a lot of good info out there on pith necrosis including pictures. After reviewing it all I am convinced that this is what my plants have...It's easy to over fertilizer ( I know lol) You mentioned about using Foliage Pro (Liquid?). How often did you feed them? Many here (Digidirt) recommend that a liquid fertilizer be used for container gardening and that you half the recommended amount when applying it and do it 2 times a week. Getting back to pith necrosis I've read that sunny weather restores the plant. I lost my Paul Robeson completely and am nursing my 3 others, Homer Fike's, Pearls of Wisdom and Livingston's Paragon. The weather here is not cooperating. Cloudy days, cool nights are not conducive to restoring my plants. I have though stopped fertilizing these 3 in ground plants and am concentrating on my containers and hoping that I don't over-fertilizer these.
No, you didn't kill your plant.
Take a look at the link below, from 1927 and all the basic tratis of many different veggies and fruits were studied in the 20's and 30's, scroll down to the tomato chapter, look at the illustrations and see that fibrous roots grow outwards from the top part of the root to often up to 6 ft below.
The difference in a fibrous root and a tap root structure for tomatoes is if one direct seeds tomato seeds and doesn't transplanted them just once that one gets a tap root structure and transplanting them just once gives a fibrous root structure which is more desirable for water and nutrient uptake, but is more fragile than a tap root, which is why I always let my transplanted seedlings get rootbound before they were hardened off and put outside.
Fragile roots break easily whereas root bound ones don't, and take off ASAP to form a fibrous structure/ And I never, but never transplanted seedlings more than once, as in no, for potting up as many call it.
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Root Development
Yes, I've grown Georgia Streak, and what's more interesting about that one to me is that Jeff Dawson in CA crossed it with Russian #117, a flat double red heart, to get the first bicolored heart called Orange Russian #117, which is what Jeff himself named it although others have used some different names.
In the link below take a look at the first known bicolor heart, which I've also grown,
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Oange Russian # 117
"Well, I relocated the plant to where it has more air-flow and privacy.
Also, I didn't touch it!!!"
How were you able to move it without touching it? lol
The plant doesn't need more privacy, (maybe from you. lol) it needs as much sun as possible.
"I decided that I am being obsessive and to just let it be."
Good move...
"It is supposed to rain for the next few days and this plant is offered protection from the rain, until the soil dries out a bit."
Now this makes sense :-)
Keep it in the sun but out of the rain until it recovers...
"Leave it Alone!"
That is the best advice you've got.
That plant looks normal. Prbably some leaf edema .
LEAF EDEMA:
Edema (or Oedema) on tomato plants is a physiological condition caused by an imbalance of the plant's water uptake and water loss. It develops when the plants roots absorb water at a faster rate than it is transpired through the leaf cells. The enlarged leaf cells divide, and then rupture. This rupturing of the leaf epidermis and inner cells causes the raised blisters and distortion of the foliage.
Centexan254: thank you. That sounds like the right reason. My other tomatoes are also smaller than they should be. I have also been skimping on water.
Another question: should I trim/prune the plants (the branches that don't have any fruit on them now) in preparation for them to start fruiting again when it cools down some or just leave them as is, most of them at 5-6 feet high. If the answer is yes, can someone give me a little more detail on which branches to trim and where (if that matters)? Thanks.
If the branches are healthy then I would advise to leave them as they are. More branches will give more fruit when it does cool off. If they are in cages then they will drape back down the sides.
The only pruning I do is taking off the dead, or dying branches.
This post was edited by centexan254 on Tue, Aug 5, 14 at 18:50